Fellas, I thought I would share some of my repair experiences with you in case someone else is interested in bringing break-top revolvers back to full service condition. I thought I would start with this particular make and model because it has several features unique to it. In an attempt at clarity one of the pictures is a numbered parts list so you can get a clear look at the part involved.
When I first got this revolver it had a broken cylinder stop, broken trigger return spring, and was out of time. Also the previous owner said it would not stay at full cock for single action fire. Well it's "good to go" now.
Start the disassembly by removing the main spring (#23). It takes the pressure off of the internal parts. Next I removed the trigger guard (21) by removing the the fore pin and rear pin. There are no surprises attached, it simply comes out. ( if the trigger return is broken you will have some pieces fall out but not to worry). Now remove the trigger pin and trigger (38) The trigger has gear teeth and the hammer sear ground into the rear face and the hand and hand spring are attached to a small permanent pin at the rear also(33) That leaves the hammer, once you take the screw out it can be maneuvered out the top of the frame, or the trigger slot if you prefer,(37) The hammer has a gear toothed cam in the middle of it (9) which easily falls out.
At this point turn it upside down and go back to the front of the trigger guard slot in the frame. and remove any remaining trigger return spring material. (not shown on parts list but the spring is a "V" with asymmetric arms) The cylinder stop is a long flat spring with a screw eye at the forward end and a bent-in kink in the other(36 and 20) remove the small screw and any remaining spring material.
Switch focus to the cylinder. Open the action and then look on the right side of the barrel just ahead of the cylinder to find a spring loaded "push-lever"(35). Depress the forward end and remove the cylinder from the quill. Next go to the left side of the frame and remove the hinge screw (12) and take the barrel off of the frame. There will be an extractor cam (16) and a cam spring (32) that will probably slide out. Dont worry about re-install it only goes one way and I can tell you that step when the reassembly post is done.
Since this unit had a supposed timing issue I looked the extractor over(14) and saw the problem was that someone had taken the cylinder apart and reinstalled the ejector in the wrong orientation. Most all top breaks made by established firms have "index marks" on the cylinder and extractor to avoid this issue. I have a photo of the rear end of three different revolvers (left to right is an Iver Johnson 32, middle is a Iver Johnson "2-post", the right is this safety police....the two on the left are marked the safety police is not....go figure. (the marks are at 2 o'clock )
I will continue in tomorrow's post: Please, if there are any ? or something I did not cover holler at me, please. Also I'm not a gun-smith all of my experience is just that years of experience, so if can take any idea and reuse it better I say go for it.
Thank you,
Rich
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When I first got this revolver it had a broken cylinder stop, broken trigger return spring, and was out of time. Also the previous owner said it would not stay at full cock for single action fire. Well it's "good to go" now.
Start the disassembly by removing the main spring (#23). It takes the pressure off of the internal parts. Next I removed the trigger guard (21) by removing the the fore pin and rear pin. There are no surprises attached, it simply comes out. ( if the trigger return is broken you will have some pieces fall out but not to worry). Now remove the trigger pin and trigger (38) The trigger has gear teeth and the hammer sear ground into the rear face and the hand and hand spring are attached to a small permanent pin at the rear also(33) That leaves the hammer, once you take the screw out it can be maneuvered out the top of the frame, or the trigger slot if you prefer,(37) The hammer has a gear toothed cam in the middle of it (9) which easily falls out.
At this point turn it upside down and go back to the front of the trigger guard slot in the frame. and remove any remaining trigger return spring material. (not shown on parts list but the spring is a "V" with asymmetric arms) The cylinder stop is a long flat spring with a screw eye at the forward end and a bent-in kink in the other(36 and 20) remove the small screw and any remaining spring material.
Switch focus to the cylinder. Open the action and then look on the right side of the barrel just ahead of the cylinder to find a spring loaded "push-lever"(35). Depress the forward end and remove the cylinder from the quill. Next go to the left side of the frame and remove the hinge screw (12) and take the barrel off of the frame. There will be an extractor cam (16) and a cam spring (32) that will probably slide out. Dont worry about re-install it only goes one way and I can tell you that step when the reassembly post is done.
Since this unit had a supposed timing issue I looked the extractor over(14) and saw the problem was that someone had taken the cylinder apart and reinstalled the ejector in the wrong orientation. Most all top breaks made by established firms have "index marks" on the cylinder and extractor to avoid this issue. I have a photo of the rear end of three different revolvers (left to right is an Iver Johnson 32, middle is a Iver Johnson "2-post", the right is this safety police....the two on the left are marked the safety police is not....go figure. (the marks are at 2 o'clock )
I will continue in tomorrow's post: Please, if there are any ? or something I did not cover holler at me, please. Also I'm not a gun-smith all of my experience is just that years of experience, so if can take any idea and reuse it better I say go for it.
Thank you,
Rich
