Is that your new bolt?

 

I think the one with the 'underturn' bolt head is the new one, the other parts marked DP are the 'old ones'

 

Second question:

What dimension does your “field” gauge measure?

 

It is a Forster 303 Field. It has .070 stamped on it.

 

SAAMI No-Go and Field reject headspace gauges are useless. The "Go" gauge at .064 is the same as military. Go to Forster and buy a .074. The ONLY gauges you need are .064 Go and .074 No-Go.

 

Got it. Any suggestions on how to get a bolt to fit properly?

 

SAAMI No-Go and Field reject headspace gauges are useless. The "Go" gauge at .064 is the same as military. Go to Forster and buy a .074. The ONLY gauges you need are .064 Go and .074 No-Go.

It is a Forster 303 Field. It has .070 stamped on it.

O'dear - another one taken for a patsy by them as should know better !

 

???

 

But if it passes on 0.070 then all is good.
Might be worth trying to return and replace if possible.

 

BUT, ensure that you get the correct "Number 1" type, not the "Number 2", which, whilst still being the same dimensions and calibre ae for the No3 rifle and are of a differing design.

 

I don't think Forster offers specific gauges for the P'14/No.3 rifle so it's not anything to worry about.

 

Not that I intend to, but can an SMLE HS gauge be turned down to accommodate a P14 without totally compromising its function in an SMLE?
Not having both types I can only guess based on the general descriptions. There must be a “sweet spot” in there somewhere. (?)

 

I'd guess so. To be honest, I only have the standard military spec gauges. .064, .067 and .074. I have one set of British military and another made by Arrowmark Tool and Gauge in Australia.

 

I have four gauges on hand. A 20+ year old set of Forsters and an Australian 0.074. They work for me. They give me a range of measurements for my mind to either accept or reject within certain variables.
I questioned the feel of my P14 rifles before I understood the differences involved. Time taught me they’re OK in spite of some little uncertainties.
The one I held onto is the Winchester.
I see no reason to make modifications at this stage of the game. At least not my game.

Thanks

 

I don't do any barrel work other than on LEs these days so not a big worry for me either. I have P'14 rifles that are all in spec. My Winchester is also a favorite along with a Greek owned Eddystone imported by Springfield Sporters in the 80s. I bought it at a shop I worked for in Florida for $125 if memory serves!

 

In the early 80’s I bought an Eddystone M17 for $150 OTD. That was the first time my friends told me I paid too much for a rifle. Probably a whopping $25 or $30 when a buck was still a buck.
There have been a few times I tossed my bargain hunting ways to the side when something was important enough to me.

 

I bought mine at the same shop before I was old enough to get hired there. My first bolt action military rifle. A Canadian owned Eddystone US M1917. Not the prettiest but original and mostly matching with a good barrel. I still have it. Paid $89 + tax and my Mum did the 4473! I think I was 14 or so.

 

So...the next step, anyone? New bolt head? New complete bolt? Or...?

 

There is no simple shortcut.
Without reading the article recommended for a better understanding:

The next step is to measure the length of the bolt body. Moot if the lugs are worn on the present one. Have you checked the contact yet?
If you have a decent fitting bolt (odds are against it since it’s DP) then you can start by finding a bolt body in that range.

Check with your headspace gauge and measure the bolthead length. Knowing what range you’re in, you add or subtract to determine what bolthead length might be needed to get it into the passable range.

Then when you find one that sounds like what you need, it has to index correctly.
You also will need to double check the firing pin protrusion since you’re swapping parts and not the firing pin.

To summarize, your next step is guessing and trial and error to get close.
In hindsight, alway remember not to buy a rifle with any DP components. And….don’t let a lower price trick you into buying something you’ll need to spend time and money on getting into a somewhat safe condition.

Without seeing and handling the rifle in question, there is very little anyone can do for you at this point. At least not without guessing. What some folks think is very simple and say “All ya gotta do is…” don’t grasp the intricacies involved.

 

You’ll have to find a bolt head that both clocks correctly & gives you appropriate headspace, after ensuring even bearing of the bolt lugs.

 

Is there any way to know what bolt head will fit the bolt or is it a guessing game/trail and error exercise?

 

Screw it in and if it doesn't overturn more than 1/8", try it for headspace and you're off to the races if it doesn't fail. You need to acquire the parts and build a bolt assembly that's in spec. Again, I suggest reading Captain Laidler's articles on www.milsurps.com. Go to the LE forum and there's a list of articles pertaining to everything. He's talking No.4 but the principles are mostly all the same.

 

Screw it in and if it doesn't overturn more than 1/8", try it for headspace and you're off to the races if it doesn't fail. You need to acquire the parts and build a bolt assembly that's in spec. Again, I suggest reading Captain Laidler's articles on www.milsurps.com. Go to the LE forum and there's a list of articles pertaining to everything. He's talking No.4 but the principles are mostly all the same.

Brian dick:
hey Brian, do you know anyone that has the taps and dies for no1 mk 111 rifles? regards jeff

 

Oh all that. Yeah.
Hey, all ya gotta do is….

 

While all of this may sound daunting to newcomers to LEs, if you plan to collect them for the long-haul, you build up a parts supply. Realistically, you don't need hundreds of bolt-heads to find a replacement—with a few dozen you stand a pretty good chance of finding a replacement that gets everything in-spec when combined with your bolt body. Maybe not perfect, but in-spec. This isn't much help to a guy with one No. 4 with a bolt problem and no interest in focussing on Lee Enfields. The ideal solution for such a guy would be to find a nearby collector or gunsmith nearby with a large parts supply and willing to let you pick through it. Not my favorite buzzword, but the answer is "networking."

Ruprecht

 

Yeah, I like LEs, but this will most likely be my only one.

 

Send it to Brian, he’ll sort you out:

Contact – BDL LTD

 

Thanks for the contact. I'll reach out to him, as honestly, I'm feeling a bit over my head with this rifle lately.

Some good news; the seller of the "new" problem bolt is allowing me to return in and "handpick" a different one. Hopefully they have one that works.

 

If looking for original Enfield screws, I do still have a small supply of most. If something I don't have, I can usually make new reproduction screws to original specs. Contact Brian at BDL for contact info if interested.

 

thanks screwman

 

Was there a determination that the DP bolt was matching and original to this rifle?

 

Well ..................

The rifle is a BSA and the DP bolt is marked RFI

So, pretty unlikely to be original to the rifle.

 

OK...I missed that...trouble right from the start!

 

Yeah, long story...but essentially I feel like I got conned a bit, as the owner sold it to me with tons of pictures--but none of the bolt. He either didn't know it was DP or purposely hid it. Regardless, when I brought it to his attention, they would not take it back/refund me, etc. Lesson learned. I feel like I still got it for a decent price though and have decided to get it back in order.

 

The good news is the things you learn along the way!

Have fun with it...and don't be afraid to ask the membership for assistance.

Take your time.

 

Brewmasterj I just went through about 20 bolts and 30 bolt heads to find the best and longest match. It's yours if you want it. Just send me the postage after you get it, and if you want you can send your old DP bolt. Send me a PM for info if you're interested. i am at a point in life where all this crap won't fit in my Urn anyway. The bolt I am sending is complete with all the parts to use upon arrival , just will need to check headspace. Thats one step i can't do for you. ;o) Also the serial number won't be a match but that would be a miracle in the first place. ;o) Good luck on your Enfield saga.

 

Thank you very much for the kind offer. I recently got a good looking replacement bolt, which fits great. It chambered a 0.64 GO gauge, and now I'm waiting for Forster to deliver a 0.74 Mil Field gauge; then I'll see.

If that doesn't work out--I might hit you up for that one. Cheers!

 

So I got the 0.74 Field gauge from Forster and it didn't close all the way...at least I think so. The bolt handle went about 3/4 down and then had a firm stop, enough that I could slip my finger in the gap. Is that correct? Pictures attached.

 

It's good to go.

 

That's great news. Thanks.