Everyone has their own tricks/tips.....for rust removal that will not effect the bluing, I use Blue Wonder Gun Cleaner. You can get away with using this in conjunction with 0000 steel wool if you aren't too aggressive. I have used this on all of my guns and have still maintained that mottled patina look. The stuff literally dissolved rust. As for the interior of the receiver, I personally haven't been too concerned (other than making sure it's spotless) as it's not visible. I've used a dremel on low speed with a soft wire wheel brush initially, then used the Blue Wonder/steel wool. If used properly, the dremel will also leave the metal finish as is.
Tom

 

Oil and 0000 steel wool or the bronze wool if you have it should be just fine. The Interior walls were not finished, tool marks predominate...

If you have it use the clarifier from Kramers, it worked good for softening rust on the Gahendra. You don't need it, it's just some thing to use if you have it. Oil would be just fine. You do not need the fancy "Name" synthetics, but if you have them use them. Next one of these I do I am going try that 50/50 ATF-Acetone.

You just need to kill the rust and knock the loose rust off so the gun will function.

 

Oil and 0000 steel wool or the bronze wool if you have it should be just fine. The Interior walls were not finished, tool marks predominate... (SNIP) If you have it use the clarifier from Kramers, it worked good for softening rust on the Gahendra.
You just need to kill the rust and knock the loose rust off so the gun will function.

Thanks for the advice.I have the Clarifier from Kramers which I tested on my Francotte wood. It worked suprisingly well for being surprisingly expensive...Didn't think it did all that well on rust though. The weapon's action functions even though the interior receiver walls are covered with moderate rust. The scratches I see don't appear to be toolmarks but it's nice to know that the walls weren't finished. I'm leaning towards judicious use of the dremel to knock the chunks loose and then scrubbing by hand with the bronze wool and oil. The results won't be visible of course but I'LL know...

Oh and by the way, many thanks to DoubleD for the sling swivel which completes this weapon!


Alan

 

No guarentee, but boil the rusty parts in water, leave them in the water and let them cool and then try your favorite steel/bronze wool and oil or water. Boiling the parts often will open up pores or places where the water can get in under the rust and letting them cool will keep it there, making rust removal much easier. Oil will keep it from re-rusting.

Sometimes I get fantastic results from this, I also let it soak in the water overnight, where the hard rust turns into a mud and it comes right off with a simple SOS pad used under warm running water the next day. It never hurts to try.

 

That's an interesting idea to try. I would have never thought of that. In this case though, it's the receiver+barrel attached. I guess that I could prop it up in a pot on the stove and see what happens.

 

If you do decide to blue it use Brownell's Oxpho-Blue. By painful experience I found that the copper sulphate in the usual cold blue will cause surface rust. Oxpho-Blue has phosphoric acid which kills rust, plus it's very durable, if not as nice looking as the bluer blues. I've heard that Blue Wonder cold blue is also very good but never tried it.
I usually use bronze wool and motor oil to clean up blued surfaces, 0000 steel wool on rougher unblued.
Still, you must use a good grease or Eezox to protect any steel surface from rusting.
Those scratches may be tool marks - I doubt they make any difference and as long as you get rid of or convert the rust they can stay, and may help to hold some grease.

 

There is a product called Evapo Rust that you could try. It DOES remove bluing though. Cut a piece of cloth to fit flat on the inside of the action walls without hanging over or getting too close to the edges. Moisten with Evapo Rust and lay it on the flat and let it sit till it starts drying out. Repeat as necessary. The idea is to keep the cloth damp so it will work. Evapo Rust is non-toxic and non-acidic. You can stick your hand in it without harm. It will eat rust though it may take several applications using the above method. If you don't get the cloth dripping wet and take care laying it in the action you should be able to keep it off the bluing.

Harbor Freight stores have it. So do a lot of Auto Parts chain stores.

 

Thanks all. I appreciate the ideas.

 

Just be prepared to cover the clean raw bare metal with some good cold blue like the Oxpho the jjk308 recommends

 

Try going to your local health food store and getting a bottle of 100% PURE, NATURAL wintergreen oil (not a blend or synthetic like what you get at Walgreen's), and use that on your rust in conjuction with 0000 steel wool. This trick was taught to me by Clarence M. Bates, and I have found it to be the greatest rust penetrant/dissolver I have ever used in my life. It has the added benefit of being non-toxic, and smells good.

 

Wow, I'm going to have to try this. You learn something new every day. Thanks!

 

You know this subject of rust removal penetrants is pretty interesting. Query some of the things people suggest...wow!