Bolt is probably not assembled correctly. Which way is the locking lugs facing to the front half or to the mid/rear. Front half would be correct.

Edit: Should be able to come out that's what I find weird. Also make sure the bolt isn't on safe to remove it. Fire or disassembly position (in between safe and fire)

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No go, with the cocking piece in either fire or disassembly position the bolt is stuck.

I did not disassemble the bolt since I got it.

In the fire position pressing the trigger does nothing, no dry fire.

When inserting the bolt it went in just fine, without any additional pressure.

How would I check the locking lugs position with the bolt in the action ?

 

Try to push against the bolt with a cleaning rod through the muzzle/barrel. But softly!

 

Be sure the 'bolt handle' is all the way to the rear, try inserting a padded screwdriver blade (using something like a cleaning patch for a pad) between the action and the bolt sleeve, and try twisting the screwdriver to do a bit of gentle prying.

 

try this. Place the rifle butt stock down on the floor. Place your right hand as a karate chop against the bolt handle, raised the rifle off the floor about 6 inches and while applying downward pressure with your right hand on the bolt, drop the rifle straight to the floor. This should loosen the bolt without having to use a tool. From there you should be able to down on the bolt release and release it. Obviously, do not do this on concrete.

 

This worked from the first try !! Did it on carpet.
Thank you !!

 

Now, while I have a method to loosen the bolt, it keeps getting stuck.

I disassembled and assembled the bolt according the videos.
I cleaned and oiled the bolt and the receiver.

Every time I insert the bolt it gets stuck and there is no reaction to the trigger press.
There is no dry-fire.

Any further suggestions are welcome.

 

Assuming you have it on fire drying firing it I find it strange. I would say make sure it is fully in battery being that the bolt and the opt rod are flush with the receiver and nothing is protruding. The trigger should be a 2 stage and the cocking ring on the rear should jump forward when fire since that is part of the firing system.

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A video and pictures of everything might be able to help. Something for sure doesn't sound like it's right.

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There is always a gap between the bolt sleeve and the cover.
It never goes into battery.

 

Did you check the receiver for any obstruction in the lug recesses and in the "tunnel" housing the operating rod?

 

I agree with parashooter. Look at the channel for the opt rod and see if something is in it. Either than or the locking recesses would be my guess.

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I checked with a light. I did not see anything obvious.
The op rod separate from the bolt fully goes into its "tunnel".

Must be the lug recesses then.

 

It looks as if the bolt sleeve gets stuck against the sear arm that is protruding beyond the rear edge of the receiver.

Top is how it is in my case and below how it should be from one of the videos.
How to fix this ?

I guess disassble and look at the trigger assembly ?

 

The trigger mechism look somewhat simple on the 1911 pattern rifles/carbines. I guess take it out of the stock to see. Can't for sure say that's your problem. Also does the sear do anything if you pull the trigger?

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The most obvious thing I see in your pictures of the rear of the action with the 'bolt closed' is that the operating handle is sitting about 3/4 inch to the rear of being in its true full forward position.

Are you able to get the operating handle ALL the way forward? The 'base' of the handle should fill the notch in front of it in the operating handle track on the receiver.

If the operating handle does not go all the way forward, the firing pin is being held to the rear, off the sear, by the end of the lug that rides in the bolt sleeve groove and rotates the bolt sleeve (to avoid out of battery firing).

If the op handle is not far enough forward to transfer the retention of the firing pin from the back of the lug on the operating handle to the sear, that trigger is going to do absolutely nothing.

I would take a good look at the relationship between the operating handle/bolt sleeve/firing pin for your problem.

Also, in about the position shown in the pictures, there can be a bit of a 'dead spot' where the bolt can (kind of) stick, but it shouldn't be a big problem opening or closing the bolt.

A K31 action is NOT 'butter smooth' just at that point. and there is enough of a a hitch caused by the 'mechanical stuff' going on with the bolt in just about that position that might create enough resistance to make a person inexperienced with a K31 to believe the bolt is all the way in battery.

Be sure someone was not storing something like a cleaning patch in the front end of the operating handle tunnel on the receiver, and give the op handle a good push.

 

Just as a quick reply only about the op rod.
I inserted the op rod separated from the bolt into the "tunnel", it goes all the way in by itself.

If the bolt is fully assembled then the op rod does not move all the way into the "tunnel" but that is because the bolt sleeve gets stuck against that part of the sear as far as I can tell.