[lumberslug]

Thank you to Camsfirie, with his instructions I got the bolt apart.
I have discobered mine has the small bolt head pin, identical to the one on the right in post 39, measures exactly 0.1215"

So now my problem is, how do i go about getting this repaired?
Is there a gunsmith in AU I should send it to?
Does anyone have the other pin they can send me?

Any help is appreciated and I wont fire the rifle until this is resolved
Thanks again Murray

 

[Camsfirie]

My 72 year old eyes have had a tune up (cataracts in both eyes done) so I've been able to transcribe the text. Sorry, but the text on the trigger assembly diagram is just too blurred.

TO DISMANTLE BOLT ASSEMBLY:
1. Ensure that the rifle is safe to handle by checking that there is no cartridge in the chamber.
2. Depress bolt retainer and withdraw bolt assembly from receiver.
3. Grip bolt plug at rear end of bolt tube and tighten up as far as it will go, moving the
tongue of the cocking piece out of engagement with the small depression in the bolt tube.
Insert a small coin in the exposed slot at the rear end of the cocking piece and unscrew the
bolt plug from the bolt tube. Withdraw the firing pin and bolt plug assembly, taking care
to keep the coin in position in the slot.
4. Remove bolt head locking pin and withdraw bolt head from bolt tube. Replacement bolt
heads are available in a range of sizes to take up excess head space.
5. Clean all parts in kerosene, petrol or other suitable solvent and re-oil with a good
quality gun oil. Avoid over oiling, as excess oil may fill the recesses in the bolt head, and
bolt tube, and cause misfires and hangfires.

TRIGGER ADJUSTMENT
1. The trigger mechanism is provided with adjustments for pressure, engagement and
overtravel. If alterations are required to these adjustments, proceed as follows:--
1. Adjust the engagement screw to give the required amount of engagement with the sear.
The amount of engagement is readily visible through the observation holes in the action
housing. Note that the fine engagement is liable to make safety adjustment unsafe.
3. Adjust trigger over-travel screw to give clearance on the two sear edges when trigger is
pulled. Note that too fin an adjustment here may prevent sear return.
4. When the above two settings are satisfactory, adjust the trigger pressure screw to give the
required trigger poundage with rifle cocked.
5. When the above two settings are satisfactory, lock the screws by stabbing lightly with
a suitable punch.
6. Finally, adjust the safety adjustment screw to prevent trigger movement but not tight
enough to prevent safety operation.

Note:
Information on additional stripping for maintenance purposes has been provided
to Association Armourers through respective State Secretaries.

 

[swedeM63]

Hi lumberslug, any competent machinist can make you the new pin by measuring the old one though this may seem like heresy to members of the it ain't safe if it ain't original brigade. The Omark design with the bolt head locking directly into the barrel means the bolt head pin takes no thrust on firing as this thrust is taken directly into the receiver from the bolt bolt head lugs. Likewise the bolt body takes no thrust and in theory the rifle can safely fire (as a test) even if a wooden bolt head pin was used.

Muffett describes the design design of this pin in another thread as follows. The pin has a slight clearance in it's engagement with the bolt body and this clearance is the key issue. The pin has to float in the hole and the bolt head is able to twist slightly on it's axis, if not then these items are binding and take load instead of all load being squarely on the bolt shoulder, leading to premature pin damage or even failure. The bolt head pin has the only function of correctly indexing the bolt head to the bolt body and that function is safe as long as the pin doesn't show unacceptable wear where it engages with the bolt body. Someone here will probably have the original NRA advice which requires a large head pin to be fitted to be permitted in competition but I don't think the present Safe Shooting Rules still include this statement.

Any good grade of steel will do for the pin. My checks show the factory pins appear not to be surface hardened (they can be marked with a file when tested on a corner). The various state rifle association shops sold replacement pins for AUS$11 at one time but now I do not see any on sale (nothing is listed in my home state).

 

[swedeM63]

The thread below gives a good description of the three designs of bolt head pin used in the Omark

https://www.ozfclass.com/phpbb/viewtopic.php?t=7135

It is interesting this thread highlights the adverse effect of dry firing practice with the Omark action. Most here would not use dry firing as part of their practice routines but it is still common for most advanced target shooting enthusiasts (both centrefire and rimfire).

Like the Enfield, the Omark bolt head arrests the forward movement of the firing pin when the firing pin collar makes contact with the back of the bolthead.

Repeated blow from the firing pin when the bolt head is not supported by a cartridge or "snap cap" could easily put loads on the bolt head pin as the bolt head is driven forward. The amount of load would depend on the clearance of the pin in the bolt body and the relationship of the various parts to each other. Rifles which have had new barrels/boltheads etc fitted could easily have this relationship upset.

For the same reasons older Enfield target shooters would used a hard rubber spacer over the exposed firing pin between the back of the bolt and the sear piece when dry firing.

 

[DaveFromSheffield]

Here's something rarely seen. An Omark 44 safety. Most, if not all, were removed over the years because they are not required for range work.

See my pictures a few posts above, mine still has the safety installed.

 

[Camsfirie]

Some additional photos of an original 26-1/2" long Omark 44 308 Win barrel, and a T.S.E. Omark barrel adapter.

The explanation accompanying the barrel adapter:

"This T.S.E. made barrel adapter for Sportco Omark M44 target rifles is brand new, and comes with gunsmith fitting instructions.

These adapters are very hard to find. Otherwise, a gunsmith would have to make it, or have have one made.

It enables the Omark M44 barrel to be replaced easily with a new one of the owner’s choosing to suit their needs, returning the rifle to pin-point accuracy".

 

[lumberslug]

Good evening in AU (Morning here)
Thanks for posting. I saw that Company website listed on a UK gunboard forum and the poster stated they can make parts for Omark 44 etc as well as custom parts.
I emailed them I my understanding is they are going to send me a large bolt head pin.

I will keep everyone advised

 

[Camsfirie]

Well, that's a great result!

 

[456eec]

I just bought a M44 here in Australia. There is no mention of Omark just "Sportco Model 44 made in Australia 7.62mm". SN is DB-056.

 

[staffy]

Sportco was an Adelaide firm founded by Jack Warne later selling out to Omark. He moved to the States founding 'Kimber".
If interested just google 'sportco rifles', or www.sportco.org.au /models.htm.
Still have a M73A.

 

[Camsfirie]

This may assist:

Wayback Machine

Omark (Sportco) M44 Target Rifle

www.awm.gov.au

Omark 44 Serial Number Timeline
The Omark Timeline is approx. DA-'68, DB-'69, DC-'70, DD-'71, DE-'71, DF-'72, DG-'73, DH-'74, DI-'74/'75, DJ-'75/'76, DK-'77, DL-'78, SDL-'78/'79, SDM-'80, SDN-'81, SDO-'82, SDP-'83/'84, SDQ-'84 SDR-'84.
MAB Production SDS to SDU (assembled from parts) 1985 and SDV to SDW-'1986. MAB serial numbers until 2003, then TSE numbers.

 

[morerams]

The first two digits in the MAB serial numbers are the year of manufacture.
The bolthead lock pins were heat treated high tensile steel.

 

[mg34nz]

Gents,

I am doing a bit of a study on the Sportco/Omark 44 rifles and so far have found some of the generally accepted production dates seem to be off. Hoping to put together a nice small summary, much like with the Irish rifle sticky on this page.

In order to do a decent job, I need more serial numbers of which as of now I have 57 from early 1968 to the 43rd rifle made in 1987.

Could anyone who has access to a rifle with a known purchase history give their data? I do not need the last digit, just the following data:

1) Serial number and prefix
2) If the imprint says Sportco or just the Omark print.
3) If a UK gun, the import proof date (or picture/description of same, I can date from that)
4) If it has the original light barrel (1-12) with handguard, the intermediate weight barrel (full over chamber in 1-13 to circa 1982) or the final Omark/ MAB bull barrel with the 1-14 twist.

Also I have very few serial number post 1984, only 2 out of 57 are MAB made rifles, nothing past 1987 even though MAB seems to have advertised the rifle up until 2008 on their web site (at least parts support)

any help would be appreciated. I hate to put out bad data.

Are you still wanting info in the Sportco M44 rifles?
Andy mg34nz@gmail.com

 

[goremyst]

just got my sportco 44 not too long ago, SDM 608. i am unsure of the history behind it as it came into my hands as part of an estate.

 

[Bindi2]

Don't forget they were built to fire the NATO 144gn load not 308 and certainly not hot heavy loads. The 155.5 gn projectile with respectable pressure loads seem to be OK so far just remember where it came from.

 

[Camsfirie]

My F-Class Sportco Omark 44 (DF serial, so a 1972 made action) has a 30" stainless steel Krieger barrel.

For some years now I've been using Federal No.210 Large Rifle Primers, 45.0 grains of AR2208 pushing Australian made Optimus HBC .308 155gr HPBT projectiles at 2860fps. It's close to the 7.62x51mm NATO 144 grain bullet in the M80 ball cartridge m/v of 2800fps.

There are no signs of pressure problems and the rifle "likes" that load and a 5 thou bullet jump. The rifle shoots OK once I get the windage right. Here is a 0.68 MOA 3.5" group at 500 yards.

 

[staffy]

Brings back memories of happy days on the Dean Range.