Try Numrich....

 

Watch E Bay, You have to be patient but I have picked up Hopkins parts there

 

Thanks for the replies; I will check out the recommendations.

 

Some photos of the rest of the rifle just for fun.

 

Nice rifle.

 

That's a gorgeous rifle

Sent from my SM-T820 using Tapatalk

 

Thank you, I really treasure it.

 

Yet to see one of those.

 

I think you'd get a kick out of it. It's really small - tiny actually - and light, and pretty fun to shoot! I found this descriptive text on a completed auction:

Here we present a Hopkins & Allen Arms Company Model 722 Takedown Rolling Block Single Shot Rifle in .22 Rimfire made circa the early 20th Century in Norwich, Connecticut. This rifle is the classic “boy’s” rifle. It was also Hopkins & Allen’s smallest and lightest Rolling Block at about 3-1/2 lbs. Length of pull is about 13-1/8 inches. Chambered for the mainstream .22 Long Rifle Rimfire cartridges, it was the plinker and the game-getter for many a youth. Being a single shot, it naturally instills the “make your one shot count” mentality from a young age. This specimen features a 19-1/2 inch barrel equipped with stationary sights. The top of the barrel is stamped "THE HOPKINS & ALLEN ARMS CO. NORWICH, CONN. U.S.A." and “No. 722/.22 LONG RIFLE”. It is still a great rifle for a youngster to learn on today!​

 

Now I am kicking myself for not picking up a restorable Stevens Favorite when I had the chance.

Looks like GB has Models 822 and 922 out there, makes me wonder about the difference.

Also kind of want something Hopkins & Allen since they had a contract involving Belgian Mausers

 

Looks like GB has Models 822 and 922 out there, makes me wonder about the difference.

Some diagrams:

822 https://www.gunpartscorp.com/gun-manufacturer/hopkins-allen/rifles-ha/822

922 https://www.gunpartscorp.com/gun-manufacturer/hopkins-allen/rifles-ha/922-2

 

That looks like a very easy spring to make on your own. If I am not mistaken Brownells sell spring stock. Shape it and heat treat the spring. Couldn't take long to do either. If it were mine that's the way I would go.

 

I've never seen a H&A 722 trigger set up for a torsion wire spring like that.
They usually use a thin flat spring held to the lower tang with a small screw.
The forward end of the spring sits on a 'shelf' on the back side of the trigger about even with the pivot pin hole.

Wether the OP's trigger has been modified for use with the wire spring because a factory spring like I described broke and a wire spring was easier to make..
or H&R made some mfg'r change on the 722 and went to the wire spring...I don't know.

The wire spring set up certainly appears like it would function just as well as a flat spring and would be easier to mfg'r.

You never really know what you're going to find in H&A rifles and shotguns. All kinds of different specs and small differences.
They are a most interesting mfg'r IMO. I had a nice Model 3922 Jr Scheutzen but sold it about a yr ago.
I have a 722 in parts and pieces packed away,,I'll have to go and see what that one has in it. Maybe something else yet for the trigger spring as it was pretty well Bubba'd as I recall!

If you want to make a wire spring, they are easy to make from wire spring stock,,sometimes called 'music wire'.

No heating needed, no heat treating, just bend the spring wire to the shape you want and that's it. The thing that's difficult is that the wire is 'springy' that you are working with. So you have to bend it past the point you want it to be, and it'll flex back somewhat. It takes some practice to get the hang of how far to bend and how much it'll rebound. So you might ruin a couple before coming up with a usable one. Big deal,a couple inches of wire..

To make the loop in the spring,,I find the easiest way is to clamp a piece of round stock in a vise. Make the round stock Smaller than the dia of the loop you want to end up with. For this spring it looks like a common carpenters spike might do well, maybe even smaller.
Take a piece of the wire and hold each end securely with a pair of pliers.
Then holding one end steady,,take the other end and quickly wrap it tightly in a loop all the way around the round stock in the vise,,and then some.

This will form the loop for you. The springy wire will back off a bit and the loop you form will be a bit larger in dia than the piece of round stock,,thats why we started with a smaller dia piece of round stock in the vise.

If it's too big,,wrap another with a small stud in the vise. Or you can sometimes carefully close up the loop using your pliers all around the loop.
The loop will also be off center because of the wrapping motion. Now spread the 'legs' out and reallaign them so the spring will sit in the slot in the trigger.
Don't clip the legs too short till you are done adj the shape. It's easier to work with that way.
Hold the loop at the exact edge where you want the leg to extend, then bend the leg outward from the loop. That will give you a nice form to the loop & leg.
Any slight adj you can do with the pliers. Needle nose work good at this point on the loop and the angle of the legs where they meet the loop.

Clip the legs to final length and stone any burr off that hangs off the end. There's usually one from clipping the wire and that can stab into the frame and hang up the trigger action.

Try it out in the gun.
If it doesn't work,,,,take another couple of inches of wire and try again.

You should be able to get 'Music Wire' / 'Spring Wire' at a Home Improvement store.

I've even made springs of this type from odd shaped unkn springs that happened to have a long straight leg or two extending from them. Clip the leg(s) off
and use them as spring stock to make what you want.
You might even be able to find an already made spring that just happens to have that loop and legs on it that you can cut it out of.
Most Home Depot type stores have misc springs and widget parts for sale.
You never know what you can find.

Good Luck w/ Grampa's rifle

 

I've never seen a H&A 722 trigger set up for a torsion wire spring like that.
They usually use a thin flat spring held to the lower tang with a small screw.
The forward end of the spring sits on a 'shelf' on the back side of the trigger about even with the pivot pin hole....Wether the OP's trigger has been modified for use with the wire spring because a factory spring like I described broke and a wire spring was easier to make..
or H&R made some mfg'r change on the 722 and went to the wire spring...I don't know. The wire spring set up certainly appears like it would function just as well as a flat spring and would be easier to mfg'r.

I rather wonder if this is an old gunsmith repair, or perhaps as you mentioned just a rolling design change to reduce cost. I purchased a reprint H&A parts catalog and the flat trigger spring (with a fixing hole) shown for the 722 looks nothing like the torsion spring found in my rifle.

Note that my rifle has several differences, which may mean it's a later iteration. The mainspring (not shown because it's in the receiver) is a coil on a shaft that pivots at one end vs. a flat spring. Note that the block spring is a coil and the "breech block button" is a hollow cap on top of the spring. There are fewer screws in m rifle as well, and there's a swivel on the takedown screw.

Thank you very much for the detailed guide to spring-making! I will definitely give it a go!

 

Some dimensions of the trigger spring for future reference in case someone's spring is missing entirely.

 

Reminds me of a cotter pin.

 

Yeah it looks quite a bit like these hairpin clips: https://www.mcmaster.com/hairpin-clips/hairpin-clips/
Or these hairpin cotter pins: https://www.mcmaster.com/hairpin-clips/hairpin-cotter-pins-6/
But performing the function of these torsion springs: https://www.mcmaster.com/springs/springs-and-shock-absorbers/torsion-springs/deflection-angle~90-/

 

I've ordered a 10-ft length of "Piano Music Wire - Size 16-1/2, 0.038" to try my hand at making a new trigger spring. $10.02 with shipping, about $1 a foot. I'll take it!

 

Excellent! Nice job.
People can do a lot more than they think they can sometimes.

So what if you fail a couple times or more. Success is a nice pay-day.

 

I appreciate that, ktr. I was really pleased with how it turned out. I had so much extra music wire, I knew I had plenty of material to go through many iterations. But I was still pretty surprised when attempt #3 turned out to be good to go!

 

Are the 722, 822, and 922 rifle all basically the same design?

 

Basically, yes. The 722 has a short knob on the right side of the rolling block to open the breech. The 822 and 922 have a lever on the bottom to operate the rolling block and open the breech. Althogh I've never handled one, I would say the 822 and 922 are a bit nicer with the lever, especially the extra leverage for spent casing extraction. I don't know if they will also push back the hammer and cock it or not. On the 722, you don't really have enough leverage to push the hammer back comfortably to cock it. So on the 722, the manual of arms is cock the hammer, then open the breech, which extracts the spent casing upon opening. Sometimes you have to open the breech smartly to get the casing to pop free.

As far as the differences between the 822 and 922, I'm not sure what they would be. Do a Google image search and you can see some 822 examples with open levers and some with loop levers like a cowboy gun. Looks like all the 922 examples doing an image search have the open levers.

 

I had a 44 1/2 action take down, economy model of walnut hill..taught grand kids on it..
standard velocity excellent..HV spit on you!

thats a nice gun you have...very nice ..wish I’d keep mine.

 

The 822 has it's breech block and lever as one piece.
The 'locking bolt' of the mechanism is the cut in the hammer just below the face of it. It engages the block when closed and the hammer drops and locks the two together.
When the hammer is cocked, the 'over center' toggle action betw the face of the breech and the face of the hammer is what keeps the lever/block from drooping or fall open on it's own.
A worn breech face often is the case on these and the action will fall open on their own. Some of the STevens Boys rifles operate the under the same principal and the same problem.

The 922 has a separate dropping breech block which is pulled down and then pushed up into position by the lever and by way of a separate link pinned to both parts.
(On the 932 (32cal) and the 938 (38cal) the link has an extra lower hole in it so the owner can drop the block down and push the link pin out. Then reassemble the block to the alternate pin hole location. This changes the height that the block is pushed up into position,,and therefore the firing pin is also moved in
position. It changes the rifle from a RF to Centerfire.
The idea was to allow either of these to fire 32RF or 32Colt in the 932,,or 38RF or 38S&W in the 938.

They also made a 3922,,the Jr. Schuetzen on the 922 action
The same Jr Schuetzen in 25-20 SingleShot (not 25-20wcf) caliber Model 3925
The 922 has the breech block supported on the sides and at the back by machined into place shoulders in the frame. The frames originally of cast steel.
A very stout V spring assists the 922 in snapping the block & lever into the up and down position and is located in the front lower portion of the frame in front of the lever pivot.

Any of the H&A Boys Rifles are a good choice for rebuild and use IMO.
The 722 is the easiest to work over. The 922's are starting to command some money of late. They used to be the orphans of the community with everyone wanting a Stevens.

Lots of variations in bbl style, sights, ect. Just like most any of the era's Mfg'rs Boys rifles.
I think H&R also made and sold the rifles with the trade name 'Bay State' on them and probably others.

I have the one Bubba'd 722 left to work on.
I sold a very nice 3922 Jr Schuetzen a while back

 

It sounds like I would want a 922 then. There is one on GB now that is about to go for ridiculous prices.

Thank you for the enlightenment ktr

 

Like Logan 102 I also restored my grandfathers hopkins and Allen 722. In my search for information on the rifle I stumbled on the complete blueprints for the rifle. It appears the Early rifles used flat springs and pins for the working parts. The later model used coil springs and screws for the working parts this is the model I have. With the blueprints I was able to reproduce the trigger which I was missing. I printed the blueprint of the trigger, sized the print by comparing it to the frame, glued it to my steel and worked the steel to shape with a hack saw and files, with a little fitting it works fine. The blueprints can be found by searching for “digital collections McCracken research library” when there click on “firearms” next click on “browse all” then enter “Hopkins and Allen 722” then you should find them. The blueprints were drawn by Winchester, figure that one out. There are a tremendous number of Winchester drawings of guns, parts, jigs, special tool etc, including a drawing of a win m94 with a box magazine like a m95. Perhaps this information will be of help to someone in the future.

 

The blueprints can be found by searching for “digital collections McCracken research library” when there click on “firearms” next click on “browse all” then enter “Hopkins and Allen 722” then you should find them. The blueprints were drawn by Winchester, figure that one out. There are a tremendous number of Winchester drawings of guns, parts, jigs, special tool etc, including a drawing of a win m94 with a box magazine like a m95. Perhaps this information will be of help to someone in the future.

Thanks for the blueprint info, Wood and steel! Congrats on the trigger-making, great creative solution to the missing part problem!

 

I didn't do too bad! Specification is Music Wire 0.0377" and I used Music Wire - Size 16-1/2, 0.038".

 

Decided to Frankenstein this thread to ask about Hopkins & Allen 922 parts.

The good news is that I finally found one.

The bad news is that its missing the lever spring, its screw, and the extractor (see diagram)

GPC/Numrich is no bueno, and Jack First doesn't even list Hopkins & Allen.

My question is this: Is there anything that could be adapted to work? I'm thinking the extractor will be the tough one.

 

Decided to Frankenstein this thread to ask about Hopkins & Allen 922 parts.

The good news is that I finally found one.

The bad news is that its missing the lever spring, its screw, and the extractor (see diagram)

GPC/Numrich is no bueno, and Jack First doesn't even list Hopkins & Allen.

My question is this: Is there anything that could be adapted to work? I'm thinking the extractor will be the tough one.

View attachment 4058526

Maybe you can take this 722 extractor blueprint to a machinist and have it fabricated (if it's the same for a 922). It's a pretty simple part.

Extractor blueprint link
H&A 722 blueprints
Fushigi Ojisan

 

Gonna Frankenstein this thread again to ask: Which tang sights will fit the Hopkins & Allen 922? My Google-Fu tells me that either a Lyman "B" code will work, or one for any of the various Marlin rimfires. Figured I would ask if anyone else has one with a tang sight that can confirm codes.

 

One from a Marlin 39 fits and I put one on my H&A 3922 when I restored/upgraded it.