Watch these (four videos: disassembly, cleaning, greasing, reassembly):


https://youtu.be/Eq4wpB9MZ-4

Grease here:

 

Other than cleaning the barrel after shooting and touching up grease as needed, I only disassemble and deep clean at the end of the competition season...takes the rifle a while to settle back into the stock.

 

I do this as well, unless corrosive ammo is used, grease touch up, bore snake w/solvent and go. I only do a full teardown every once in a great while, last one was when I got it and greased it the first time about 3 years ago.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

 

Simply to make your M1 "Correct" you might want to buy a butt stock cleaning kit.
This was the M1 4 section M10 cleaning rod, , a rod loop tip, and a bore brush in a canvas tube that was put in the top hole.
Added after the canvas tube was a tiny plastic jar of lithium grease.

In the bottom hole you could put a M3-A1 Combination Tool OR an amber plastic long tube in which the M10 Combination tool/handle wen in the lower part and the top part was full of oil.
A later short plastic tube was filled with grease in one compartment, but this was more for the M14 rifle.

In any case, you really need to have an M3-A1 Combination tool. This is used to do everything on the M1 from scrubbing the chamber to disassembling the bolt IN or OUT of the rifle, adjusting and tensioning the rear sight, and disassembling the gas cylinder lock screw.

You can buy the M10 kit and the M3-A1 Combination Tool from several sources, but Fulton has the legit USGI items.....

https://www.fulton-armory.com/combotoolm10.aspx

https://www.fulton-armory.com/combotoolwchamberbrushm3a1.aspx This is a "must have" for the M1.

A support wrench for the gas cylinder is nice to have as it prevents damaging the barrel or gas cylinder splines when removing or installing a tight gas cylinder lock screw. Cheap insurance.

https://www.fulton-armory.com/gascylinderwrenchgarand.aspx

https://www.fulton-armory.com/cleaning-rod-section-30-cal.aspx Need 4 sections.

https://www.fulton-armory.com/cleaning-rod-case.aspx

https://www.fulton-armory.com/oilerwwiitypelongplasticnew.aspx Replica but good.

https://www.fulton-armory.com/oilerwwiitypelongplasticnew-1.aspx New USGI. They also have USGI used.

Use the butt stock cleaning gear ONLY in the field or for emergencies. The jointed rods never match up perfectly and a sharp edge can ruin a muzzle.

To actually clean your M1 you'll need the following.....

A stainless steel Service Rifle length rod.
This is a polished one-piece stainless rod the correct length to clean an M1. Dewey seems to be the most popular, but some shooters are buying better grade carbon fiber rods because they're either perfectly straight or they're broken.
The correct rod is the 24HSS....

https://www.brownells.com/gun-clean.../cleaning-rods-amp-accessories/cleaning-rods/stainless-steel-rods-prod5635.aspx

Coated rods are falling from favor because the coating tends to scrape off and you have to buy a new rod.
DO NOT buy a brass or aluminum rod.
This is counter-intuitive..... you'd think the softer rods would do less damage, but grit can embed in the soft metal and scratch the muzzle or bore. That can't happen with hardened stainless.

A muzzle guide/protector.
These are a brass protector that's slipped over the rod and pushed into the muzzle to center the rod and protect the muzzle crown.
You can also buy protectors that slip over the muzzle. This type is easiest to use and safer for the muzzle.

https://www.brownells.com/gun-clean...leaning-rods-amp-accessories/cleaning-rod-guides/m1-muzzle-buddy-prod44065.aspx

https://www.brownells.com/gun-clean...s/cleaning-rods-amp-accessories/muzzle-guides/brass-muzzle-guide-prod32992.aspx

A cleaning rod tip.
Many Match shooters use the Parker-Hale type "toothed" patch holder that you wrap a patch around length-wise. These make much better contact with the bore.
You need the male threaded type that screws into the Dewey rod female threads

https://www.brownells.com/gun-clean...ng-rods-amp-accessories/cleaning-rod-jags/parker-hale-style-jags-prod32722.aspx

Patches and bore solvent of your choice.
M1's do tend to copper up so you may need a copper solvent to use with another solvent that removes carbon and powder fouling.
I usually used a good copper remover solvent and ordinary Hoppe's #9.

Ammo.
Warning... A lot of surplus ammo is corrosive primed. If in ANY doubt, flush the bore and chamber with hot water.
Warning #2... Use ONLY 30-06 ammo specifically loaded for the M1.
A lot of commercial ammo used powders that are an incorrect burn rate for the M1 and you can seriously damage the operating rod.
Most "military pack" commercial 30-06 is okay for the M1, especially Federal White Box.
If you're not sure about ammo, or you want to shoot commercial sporting ammo, buy a Schuster adjustable gas cylinder lock screw. With the Schuster you can shoot most anything.
To be safe for your M1 shoot only bullets less then 179 grain.
You can buy a Schuster gas nut from places like Champion's Choice.

GREASE.
Oil is used in the M1 to thinly coat the metal and prevent rust. GREASE is the lubricant.
You can buy expensive gun store greases, but the "correct" issue lubricants were Lubri-Plate 130 or Plasti-Lube.
Most M1 shooters just go to Walmart or any auto store or farm and home store and buy some Lithium grease.
That's what Lubri-Plate 130 is, but if you insist on spending more money....

https://www.brownells.com/gun-clean...oils-lubricants/lubricant-protectant-oils/130-a-mil-spec-grease-prod104311.aspx

For details on what to grease and full dissasembly and maintenance, you can see the USGI Ordnance and Field manuals on the M1 here......
Note the info at the top of the page on what username and password to use to get in.........

http://www.biggerhammer.net/manuals/

 

My apologies, I wasn't clear.
I can disassemble and reassemble the rifle and grease according to manual that came with it from CMP. I also understand that taking it completely down is a once in a great while event and unnecessary for cleaning after your average day at the range.

My real problem specifically, is cleaning the CHAMBER and BORE after a day at the range. I have no interest in making it "correct" with a GI kit, I just need to clean chamber/bore. I have a one-piece stainless Dewey rod, jags, brushes, solvent, patches and all the related tools and stuff. Apparently, I'm using a cleaning rod from the muzzle end. Ugh!

Considering the aforementioned items I have, I think the following will have me squared away for chamber and bore? Yes?

Muzzle bore guide:
https://www.brownells.com/gun-clean...ries/cleaning-rod-guides/model-m-14-1-fits-m14-m1a-sku234014014-5631-13111.aspx

Chamber brush:
https://www.brownells.com/gun-clean...ies/cleaning-tools/m-1-garand-30-06-chamber-brush-sku749000770-32948-62902.aspx

M1 Buddy (receiver):
https://www.brownells.com/gun-clean...-accessories/cleaning-rod-guides/m1-muzzle-buddy-sku100015393-44065-146756.aspx

This is my 2nd M1. I bought one through CMP and never shot it. Read through the manual and read about handloading for it and clips (?really?) and decided it wasn't for me and sold it NIB years later. I got talked into buying another one now years later and have decided to give it a fair shake. I hate this rifle. I'm trying hard not to, but I hate it. I know, I'm probably the only American on the planet that hates it. I'm spoiled after a lifetime of simple bolt guns. I think I have hand loads resolved and have some ready to test over the chronograph next week. So, if I can get the cleaning resolved I'm going to participate in the local Garand matches. This help me get oriented with it and used to how it works. If I stop hating before October, I'll keep it. Otherwise....

Sincerely though, thanks for the thoughtful replies.

 

My apologies, I wasn't clear.
I can disassemble and reassemble the rifle and grease according to manual that came with it from CMP. I also understand that taking it completely down is a once in a great while event and unnecessary for cleaning after your average day at the range.

My real problem specifically, is cleaning the CHAMBER and BORE after a day at the range. I have no interest in making it "correct" with a GI kit, I just need to clean chamber/bore. I have a one-piece stainless Dewey rod, jags, brushes, solvent, patches and all the related tools and stuff. Apparently, I'm using a cleaning rod from the muzzle end. Ugh!

Considering the aforementioned items I have, I think the following will have me squared away for chamber and bore? Yes?

Muzzle bore guide:
https://www.brownells.com/gun-clean...ries/cleaning-rod-guides/model-m-14-1-fits-m14-m1a-sku234014014-5631-13111.aspx

Chamber brush:
https://www.brownells.com/gun-clean...ies/cleaning-tools/m-1-garand-30-06-chamber-brush-sku749000770-32948-62902.aspx

M1 Buddy (receiver):
https://www.brownells.com/gun-clean...-accessories/cleaning-rod-guides/m1-muzzle-buddy-sku100015393-44065-146756.aspx

This is my 2nd M1. I bought one through CMP and never shot it. Read through the manual and read about handloading for it and clips (?really?) and decided it wasn't for me and sold it NIB years later. I got talked into buying another one now years later and have decided to give it a fair shake. I hate this rifle. I'm trying hard not to, but I hate it. I know, I'm probably the only American on the planet that hates it. I'm spoiled after a lifetime of simple bolt guns. I think I have hand loads resolved and have some ready to test over the chronograph next week. So, if I can get the cleaning resolved I'm going to participate in the local Garand matches. This help me get oriented with it and used to how it works. If I stop hating before October, I'll keep it. Otherwise....

Sincerely though, thanks for the thoughtful replies.

I use that Delrin bore guide - doesn't fit great but gets the job done. I think that's the most important tool - the bore guide.

I bought a LEO retired AR years ago and the muzzle/crown was complete toast from rod wear. I have seen it with my own (and old) eyes! ( I got my money back on the AR - shot grouping was 4 feet at 100 yards!)

 

Those M1 Buddy's are great~! Use it every time you clean the weapon, along with the rod guide and bore brush, and you'll be in good shape.
The M1 is my favorite semi auto to shoot. It has authority.

 

The gear you listed will do as good as anything.

I'd still recommend getting a M3-A1 Combination Tool to clean the chamber, and to use for other maintenance on the M1.
This can be a real saver if you need to do something like more disassembly or replacement of bolt parts that can break.

 

I have 6 different coated Dewey cleaning rods and the coating has never wore off any of them, some are pretty old. IMO you do not need a muzzle guide

 

I've fully disassembled the rifle with no need for combo tool. The only thing I didn't do was break down the bolt assembly. If there's a special tool required if that need arises, I'd be surprised, but I'll order one if needed. My experience with combo tools is they generally don't do any one thing as well as the "right" tool. I have coated rods as well and, they are my first choice. Never had a problem with any.

Anywho, I have everything ordered and hope to test hand loads next week. However, looks like we may be on lock down due to this stupid killer virus (the flu). City and county of Denver is on lock down as of this evening. I'm not in Denver, but in the metro area. I expect our esteemed governor will give a similar order forthwith.

Thanks again to all for the patience and helpful comments.

If I get a chance I'll report back on cleaning with new gear and possibly handloads. Fingers crossed!

 

I don't know how the lockdown is going to work in Colorado, but Ohio was one of the first states locked down for Coronavirus, and they have not YET limited access to outdoor rifle ranges here. Gun shops are open for the most part as well. I shot in a small 'match' at an outdoor club/range just last Sunday.

I use no special tools to clean my M1 other than the issued chamber brush/combo tool to clean the chamber (and remove the gas cylinder plug when I feel the need to clean out the gas cylinder. I still shoot corrosive ammunition in my Garands, on occasion), a toothbrush to clean off the boltface, and to 'dig around' a bit inside the action to remove 'dirt', and one of the conical brass universal muzzle guides to center the rod when cleaning the bore.

If I ever feel the need to take down the bolt (haven't found a need to do so on any of my three Garands for AT LEAST twenty years), there are some built-in pin punches and the like on the combo tool that will help you get by.

I very rarely completely disassemble my Garands because there is usually no need to. How often do you REALLY NEED to take the stock off a bolt rifle? Garand is the same.

Removing the stock frequently will eventually wear out the lugs on the trigger guard that clamp the action into the stock (the TG was the FIRST part I had to replace on a terribly abused Blue Sky import Garand when I got one for REALLY cheap from its frustrated first owner when they first brought them into the country. It also needed a new gas cylinder (the ID was worn beyond spec and the rifle short-stroked a lot) and a barrel (keyholing)). I still ended up paying quite a bit less for it than the average price art the time for a fully functioning one.

Helpful tip: When you load the Garand clips (personally, I like them), make sure that the 'top round' sits on the right side of the clip. It gives you better purchase with your right thumb when pushing the clip home in the rifle.

 

I have a Tipton carbon rod with a sliding handle. For cleaning my M1, I attach a short 8" Otis pistol cable between the tip and the rod. That way I can easily install a patch and saturate it with solvent - I use Ballistol - outside of the receiver. I also use the "M1 Buddy" to keep the bolt open.

I also use a standard Otis cable if I forget to take the Tipton rod to the range. I prefer to pull patches at the range while the barrel is still warm. "A patch in time saves nine."

 

OK here's my 2 cents.
First do not use a GI rod. They are steel . Cleaning from the muzzle is a bad thing with one. Steel on steel more wear. use a good coated rod.
Cleaning the chamber. use a GI chamber brush to clean it. Wrap a patch around it to get the carbon out.
You do not need to take the rifle out of the stock each time you clean it. Adds to the wear in the stock from the receiver lugs.
Gas cylinder. Rack the operating rod back remove the gas plug and clean it like a muzzle loader.
Bolt clean the face and inside the receiver.
grease as in one of the above posts.
I have been shooting M-1s since the early 80s. Most of mine are glass bedded match rifles. I have never removed them from the stocks except to put a new barrel on.
Even the regular GI ones I pull down only once in a while.
Just make sure you clean around the gas cylinder and the op rod both closed and racked back. Lots of carbon there.

 

don,t feel to bad if you end up hating the m-1, millions of axis soldiers hated it too.

 

Yeah, they hated it to death .

 

Apparently the "stay-at-home" order here in CO allows for outdoor recreational activities that respect the social distancing guideline. Hurray shooting!

BTW, I knew, KNEW, that someone would say the enemy hated M1's too. And, you're right to say so!

 

I think they mainly hated being shot at, rather than the rifle used. Met a few WWII vets of the Wehrmacht while I was stationed in Germany. If they could be induced to discuss the War, they seemed to not much care whether they were facing Amis, Englander, Canadians or even French. But ALL of them were disliked if they shot.

Come to think of it, after I left Germany and went to SEA - I felt about the same about VC/NVA.

 

If you read "M1 Malfunction" in this forum recently, you'll see I've continued to have problems with this rifle. It's a learning curve...and I'm pretty dense. Another test tomorrow, I hope.

Still frustrated with cleaning this thing. So I did this...


Being a bolt guy, I have bore cleaning guides that slip into the action in place of bolt to "guide" the cleaning rod entering into the chamber end of the barrel.

So, I had an extra and modified it from it's original configuration to fit over the muzzle instead of into the chamber. It's a couple of thousandths under size and nearly has to be driven on, but goes on/off by hand.

Now, I can run the rod in through the muzzle without potential damage. I just grasped the barrel ONLY and ran the rod through. Patch-2 strokes, brush-10 strokes, patch-2 strokes, brush-10 strokes, patch until clean. The new guide didn't wiggle, budge, or fall off. I used the M1 Buddy in the action and a Dewey bore brush. One of my engineer friends liked it so much, he 3D-printed one for his own use! (Yes, some engineers are social)

If, THAT'S IF, this thing works tomorrow, I might be over the "hump" and actually enjoy it for a change with cleaning now resolved. Fingers crossed!

If I get to go out tomorrow, I'll report back on "M1 Malfunction " post I mentioned.

 

Re cleaning the M1 from the muzzle with a steel rod: well, it's your rifle. I already recommended using an Otis cable for this job.

 

Yes Leon, you did.
In fact many members recommended many items. I'm grateful for ALL the input. I think I followed most of the link provided and looked closely. Even your post; I looked to see what Otis was, I saw how the Otis item works, and read posts from others to get more opinions. I'm glad it works for you, but a cable system isn't something for me. I am happy with my choices here. Regarding the steel rod, I used them for years and then switched to coated for everything. I'm not sure why I grabbed that one for the photo to my engineer friend. Still, I don't find them objectionable. If I keep the rifle, I'll use a coated rod.

Yes, it's my rifle. For the moment.
I'm obviously not adjusting well to the semi-auto. These rifles are too particular for me after decades of bolt rifle shooting. If it doesn't function well tomorrow, it will be someone else's problem to enjoy. Cheap!

 

I find it hard to believe you would not be using a cable or a bore snake as recommended. It is your gun and do what you want. I have cleaned many of M1 Garands & carbines and would not consider using anything but a cable. I also use the Otis system but they all work the same.
John

 

That steel rod will make short work of the crown and you'll be one of those who thing the M1 shoots 2 inches or more at 100 yds. The crown is "everything". Others have made a strong case for Otis, and I'd recommend re consideration to use the Otis.

The Garand is a special category weapon, there are techniques to keeping it accurate, properly lubed and functioning. If you don't know all about this, give me a PM and we can chat on the phone.

 

give the guy a break,

he is using a guide (granted, a smaller one would do, and are available online) and a Dewey rod,

not like he is in the foxhole or barracks with a bent up multi piece issued rod,,


I shot Garand Matches for years, bought the guide and the short Dewey rod,

as someone else posted, I cleaned at the end of the season (my M1 loves 168SMK's that were moly coated)

I am fully qualified and have the proper USGI tools to measure wear, and no noticeable difference using a Dewey and guide,,,


muzzle was fine, throat was fine, and everything still gauges in spec,,,

 

A break indeed. Thanks Lyman1903 for being reasonable.
I don't even know how to respond to those few above so, I won't.

 

I use a bore snake and won’t be putting any rods down my Garands bore.

This isn’t 1942 and there’s no reason to clean your gun with tools from then either.

 

The garand barrel is not a delicate flower. You need to read the GCA article about cleaning rods and garand barrels
They did extensive testing and as I remember it took 66,000 strokes of a bare steel segmented cleaning rod purposly drug against the sides of the muzzle to change MW by 1
They then fired7,000 rounds through a rifle The starting MW measured about .6 after 7000 rds measured about 2 . Tests proove MW is caused more by firing than cleaning

 

Yeah? And using dish soap and a washrag to clean my car probably won’t hurt it much dairy but that doesn’t mean I’m going to stop using modern soaps containing polymers and such that will make it last longer.

Using a steel rod when it’s uncalled for is just nonsensical.

 

You completely missed the point of the test. They used the absolute harshest method of cleaning and it took 66,000 strokes to change MW by 1. Point is you do not need to use muzzle guides or a bore snake because of fear of hurting the muzzle.
Rounds down the barrel cause more wear than cleaning

 

Didn’t miss anything, I simply don’t believe that “test”.
No way I believe that a steel cleaning rod doesn’t damage a muzzle or the bore for that matter.
But I’m pretty darn positive a soft rope won’t.

 

The Garand Collectors Association spent a lot of time on the above test. Believe it or not that is the results

 

You guys just keep puttering around in your Model T’s and ignore that better methods exist.

 

No one ever said there weren't better methods, foaming cleaners etc. We were just stating that using a cleaning rod is not near a factor of muzzle wear as you and other people think