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308 Ishapore Enfield stock restoration

6.4K views 34 replies 13 participants last post by  JB White  
#1 ·
Does anyone know what furniture goes on an Ishapore 308 Enfield? I've got one in good shape but the wood looks just awful
 
#2 ·
Any MkIII SMLE stock will work, but they are pricey (and in high demand as you may be able to tell from all the restoration threads right now). They are not "plug & play", and final hand-fitting is to be expected.
 
#3 ·
Final hand fitting indeed! If you haven't done it before and don't have good woodworking skills and tools, make a new friend with someone qualified. The Dremel and super glue crowd are to be avoided with this particular type of restoration and furniture fitting.
Don't be mad at me, it is what it is.
 
#4 ·
LibertyTree collectors has the 8th variation stocks, which would be correct for a 2A or 2A1 rifle. Forends are $125. I went the other way around and fitted a rosewood forend from a 2A1 to a 1940 FTR Ishapore SMLE. It worked just fine.

Get one first, see how it fits, and then go from there. Post questions and pictures here and we will walk you through it.
 
#6 ·
Try looking on GunBroker or other websites/forums for drill rifles. Most of the time they have some pretty decent stocks on them.

I'd normally recommend looking around shows and such, but they aren't going on as much...so some savvy searching on forums may be your best option if you're trying to save a buck and not buy new manufactured stuff.
 
#7 ·
#31 ·
In addition, there's a drill rifle on J & G sales right now if you want to go down that road.

Just for fun I thought I would post some pictures of my $99 J&G DP Enfield. It came coated with cosmoline and the DP stripes were well worn. In as this is not meant to be a valued part of my collection ( I just wanted an inexpensive version of a DP to compete my collection ) I use a taboo to clean it...OVEN CLEANER...it sucked that cosmoline right out of the wood...once it dried I refinished it with Danish Oil (Walnut) and hand rubbed it.....the DP stripes on this rifle appeared to be wider than usual so
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I repainted them according to the original outline...the guy that was assigned to paint them that day must have gotten the big brush and did a "John Hancock" stripe job...all-in-all I am pleased with it.
 
#9 ·
No, it's not supposed to be bad. A drill rifle is bad because it is used for drills, dropped, kicked, whatever.

Why don't you post some pictures of what you have first. Replacement is always an option, but I always look at possibility of repair and restore first. Wood can be cleaned, dents can be smoothed out with steam, cracks can be pinned.

This is what a cleaned up and stained indian rosewood frontend from a 2A1 looks like on a No1MkIII*. The buttstock was original to the No1. They looked fairly even matched from 5ft away. :)

3788423
 
#10 ·
This is a wood-set from a DP rifle, that I built up onto an Ishapore barreled action
 

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#11 ·
K The Indian timber is not fine grained like German timber. These rifles don't win beauty shows they win wars. People are tarting up service rifles to win beauty shows, the last thing a soldier wants is a shinny rifle
 
#12 ·
After further review, I must admit my previous post could be construed as harsh or scolding by some as the question posed by the OP was a straightforward question that has been answered nicely.
Agree that the rifle should be taken down and the timber examined. If the important draws are well fitted and in fine condition then an exterior facelift would fit your needs as opposed to taking the chance on a DP and having to go thru the grief of making the draws fit your rifle.
As stated above, post some pics and let these experienced gentlemen give some sound advice for said facelift. After all, it is your rifle and who am I to tell a man what to do with his gun? BTW, I also have a 2A and I think it to be a lot finer rifle than most folks give them credit for. And I won't get into the ammo thing.
 
#13 ·
DP rifles are sketchy at best. You get what you pay for, and most times the wood is beat to heck and back. And that’s not the worst. Draws that are cracked are a high certainty as well. Avoid them like the plague. At most you could harvest some barrel bands and screws. Not worth it.
 
#14 ·
Nothing is absolute. The DP furniture set Alan used above obviously was in great condition when he started. On the other hand, look at some DP sets on ebay up close and you see little more than firewood.

DP sets are useful, can be great source of parts, but it's a luck of a draw when buying a full DP rifle from online places like JG. You need to add shipping and FFL fees on top of that. This is why I suggested the ones at Liberty Tree as they have at least cleaned and sorted them and you get a usable piece.
 
#16 ·
There are videos of a JG Sales DP rifle. It's 2019, so who knows about the quality that's left.
Do yourself a favor and watch it on mute. Trust me on this one. That's one voice that wil lbe stuck in my head for a while.


 
#18 ·
A couple of things I'd like to add. The DP stock sets are not Rosewood. I don't know how or where that internet rumour was started but it seems to be taking off.
I can only surmise it was due to the color of some rifles?

The stocks interchange between the No1 and the 2a1 but there are subtle differences. Chiefly the buttplate. They do not interchange.
 
#32 ·
I wonder how could anyone think that...

53 Ishy No1. No, I did not refinish it. Not guilty. I got it that way.

3790303

3790304
 
#21 ·
Herein lies the rub. The vast majority if not all the Ishy DP parts are from No1 rifles. Thus making attempts at restoring a 2a1 nearly impossible in some instances. If recovering a sporter, the 2a/2a1 rifle MUST have the SLR butt/buttplate, the squared nosecap, and the flat band and swivel assemblies. The 'chunkier' wood with the deeper recessed reinforcing strap is a later trait but one that came about during 2a production. Hence the earlier wood will look a bit off on a later mid 60's rifle. Thus not a restoration by definition, which is what most are trying to achieve.

Then there are the DP markings on the wood along with the paint which needs to be addressed. If not done expertly, that DP ghost will always be peeking out.
Let's not forget that a lot of the DP for ends exhibit many of the same structural problems owners are trying to duck away from. The stock wood will need work.

No plug and play...
 
#23 ·
That appears very typical of the breed. If its looks your after, it's already there. Don't compare it to the 1 in 1000 and certainly not to one of the oven cleaner attacks some have forced upon theirs.
 
#30 · (Edited)
There ya go.

Should add: Do not use oil-type finishes. The small bottles of Birchwood Casey etc or the store shelf homeowner DIY stuff. That crap might be OK in lieu of polyurethane finishes on tables and chairs, but not on firearms. You want the finish IN the wood and not ON the wood.
A quart of true BLO will last a decade or more for routine maintenance. Pure turpentine the same. Spend the extra ten bucks on the real stuff and leave the shortcut mistakes to others.