[Fatstrat]

Anyone into it? I've done a couple. 1st one had the pommel broken off, but had good blade and all leather handle "rounds' present. Basically I just acquired another used pommel, cleaned the blade and reground the tang end for a pommel, Reinstalled original leather rounds in exact order (minus a couple) , and welded the pommel on. Looks good, but is of course alittle shorter in handle than original.
2nd was an unissued Camillus blade that dumped on the market when Camillus closed. I believe it is a WW-2 vintage blade that was probably rejected by U.S. inspectors because the blade grind was slightly uneven at hilt. One side about 1/16" longer than other. USMC/Camillus,NY marked as were some WW-2 issue.
Bought a handle restoration kit from Ka-Bar (includes guard, pommel and 23 rounds). Blued the blade w/cold blue. (worked GREAT after heating blade slightly in oven). Assembled the handle and shaped it on belt sander using current production USMC Ka Bar as pattern. Sanded handle smooth and finshed w/Cordovan shoe polish. Turned out fantastic! People who have seen it think it's factory made.
Now I have another project knife. A WW-2 vintage Camillus w/decent blade, needs new handle. But the pommel is still attached on this one. Any tips on getting the pommel off? I know it's held on by a pin. But those pins are in there TIGHT! And I've sen several broken tangs from attempts to remove the pommel. What's the best way in your experience? Any help appreciated.

 

[Fatstrat]

Well I figured it out. Not easy but can be done. I removed the pins/pommels on two of them. Definantly the hardest part of the restoration.
Would anyone be interested in a tutorial on how I restore these knives. I've done several now, and its been a learning experience. But I think I've got it pretty well down now.
My "restorations" are done w/preserving originality as a priority. Basically taking the knife apart to the seperate components. Evaluating what needs to be just cleaned up or replaced.
1st consideration is blade condition. Many of these knives have been sharpened so many times that the blades have considerable width/length lost. I don't bother if blade has lost much over 1/4" of total blade length or width.
After disassembly, all rust/crud/original finish is cleaned off blade/guard/pommel w/wire brush on grinder. Tang is sprayed w/thin coat of clear finish. Then Blade/guard & pommel are carefully polished (by hand) just enough to accept new finish. Leaving whatever deep pits or scratches from prior service present. Then I use cold blue to refinish blade, guard and pommel.
Leather handle "rounds" are then sometimes completely replaced, but often can be reused after cleaning and rehydrating w/oil. (I use Mink oil).
Then assembled (re-assembled in EXACT original order if using originals). Replacing rounds w/new is a process that is both easier and harder in different aspects.
There's ALOT more to it than this basic description. But it's not that hard. I'd say start to finish, about 5 hours that are of course broken up by curing time of blueing etc. Generally a project knife takes me about 2 days start to finish of spare time work. The result is (IMO) a much better looking, and sturdier knife. Almost as good as new exept for honest service wear that cannot be replaced. (I haven't done any restorations on knives that were in already solid condition or didn't need it).
If anyone is interested in more info, I'd be happy to answer questions more in depth. Or if interest is enough post a more depth tutorial that I would hope might be saved as a "sticky".

 

[JCROWNII]

Is RE TOUCHING the faded blueing with COLD BLUE hard? is it bad to do this to a historical item?

I have a FN M1930 Greek Mauser short rifle and I would like to RETOUCH some of the bluing on it. Dont know if I should though.

 

[Trenchwarfare]

As far as restoring a Kabar, or Mk2, why bother? there's too many of them around, to go through the trouble. Unless, it has sentimental value, or you just want to do the job. Cold blue: That's up to you. If done to deceive, no. If you just want to touch up a little, that's your call. A little blue wear, is expected, on a 70+ year old rifle. If you must, follow the directions, and take your time. Use a Q-tip, and try to "feather" it in. You can "blend" it in with OOOO steel wool. The smell will linger for weeks, unless you neutralize it with oil.

 

[farmritch]

PM sent I'd like some help in getting a Camillus repaired that belonged to Father in Law ( Broken Pommel )

Farmritch

 

[Fatstrat]

PM sent I'd like some help in getting a Camillus repaired that belonged to Father in Law ( Broken Pommel )

Farmritch

PM recvd. Reply sent w/pics.