[Whig]

I just recently acquired an original Colt 1860 Army revolver made in 1862 and it's in really good working condition. I have been learning about these and making sure it's able to be shot safely. The nipples are rusted in place but all are intact and opened well. I disassembled the internals and cleaned it and inspected everything. Actually, there is little internal wear and no damage. The turning hand works great and spring is strong. I had to replace a damaged loading lever and a couple buggered screws and installed a new wedge. Otherwise, it has no original finish left but looks great and functions well.

I have 3F powder and .454 caliber lead balls. I need .44 caliber lubed wads and #11 caps. I really only want to shoot it a few times to have fun with this piece of history. I'd like to see if anyone has a half-empty can of #11 caps and some lubed wads to sell to test this out.

Any other suggestions, please let me know. A local muzzle loading store doesn't have caps or wads in stock.

(I posted this first in the general WTB forum but thought that this would be better. Hope there's no rule violation!)

Thanks!

 

[stooge]

You need a hazmat ORD label to ship caps. You don't need wads, just lube over the cylinder mouths with some crisco.

 

[scandiknivars]

See my answer to your post in the Military Forum with pictures about this pistol. I state again here that given the over all fair condition and the fact that you were able to remove the arbor I consider it dangerous to shoot even with reduced loads. Buy a new replica if you want to shoot a black powder revolver.
Dan

 

[Whig]

Thanks, Dan.

 

[JB White]

After looking at the other board, there are some things worth investigating in regards to safe function.

The parts replaced are typical of a C&B revolver having chain fired with a ball being launched into the ram.
Possibly a distorted ram, a bent wedge, and a loose arbor.
Grease atop the ball serves well to keep fouling soft during a shooting session. It may also help to prevent a frontal chain fire using slightly undersized balls.
A tight ball that shaves “the ring” when loading is enough of a seal, but does little for the fouling

Poor condition nipples or ill-fitted nipple to cap matchup can and will produce a chain fire from the rear. That includes pitted nipples.

Since you mentioned rusted nipples and I can only “see” what you’re actually working with in my imagination,(pics don’t show well enough) I suggest you take another closer look with a different perspective before live firing?

For your safety and the sake of preservation. Your revolver may not survive a chain fire now.