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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Bought a Type 14 Nambu pistol a few weeks ago, cleaned it up, bought some ammo from Mr. Nambu and took it to the range. I put a new firing pin spring on it, replaced the missing locking block spring, and was going to replace the recoil springs (but the Wolfe springs were longer and didn't want to stay on track to get compressed within the receiver). So I left the original recoil springs on it (they seem pretty strong) and fired away. Much to my surprise each light pull of the trigger was resulting in a quick double tap, and when I purposely held it down longer I fired off three in a volley before I instictively let off. Two questions: 1. What is causing my Nambu to fire full auto and 2. Has anyone else had trouble getting new Wolfe springs to compress successfully and, if so, how did you overcome it? Thanks.
 

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in general, I've seen multiples from worn trigger/sear/disconnectors, and also from low powered rounds that recoil just enough to load a new round, but not enough to hold the hammer back. Hammer rides the slide down, and sets off the primer, expecially if it's commercial with it's typically more sensitive primers.
 

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There are no hammers on the T-14, just the sear bar that catches and releases the firing pin tail. So either the pin tail is too short to catch on to the sear bar or the sear bar is warped so that it is not seating into the pin tail fully. Anyway, full auto T-14 is a cool thing to see and would love to see a video of one blasting away !
 

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The feds take a dim view of these events, accidental or not.
They have piled onto a few people who were reported at ranges.
Ridiculous as it seems.
Demonstrating this would be a bad idea these days.
Agree. One guy was messed with big time and got Lou Dobbs all upset. Lou pointed out the absurdity of the guy being in so much trouble over a malfunction but remember who is in charge.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Fortunately there were only two of us at the range, myself and a friend. No videos forthcoming unless I can post them from a third party computer! The sear looks to be normal, perhaps a slight bit smooth on top. The firing pin tail only hangs down perhaps milimeter (sorry to go metric) or so, I'll have to see how much another one hangs down to get some reference.
 

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a really really light trigger might be slipping off or tripping itself when locking.

The law is too loosely worded for my taste. Legally speaking, even a person with a purely accidental multiple because of parts wear out is in a very vulnerable situation. The gun fits the definition of unregistered machine gun, and there have been famous prosecutions for guns that multiple because of part failures and sensitive ammo. Talking about it is complicated because asking for help is admitting possession.

The whole thing revolves around treating it like a dangerous malfunction. If a gun multiples, stop shooting it immediately and unload it. Depending on what is wrong, it might be possible to fire without the chamber locked shut (boom ow blood). Then strip the gun enough to disable it and take it home or to the gunsmith. Take out some parts not related to the malfunction (magazine, recoil spring, extractor, etc.) and lock them in a different location.....no one can assemble a functional multipling gun with what you have on hand. Get it fixed quick, and destroy the old parts so they can't even be installed.
 

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Get a new firing pin, from board member, Don Schlickman. [email protected] Tell him the date, mfg, subcontractor, etc. There are many different Type 14 firing pins. Is your numbered to the gun? Could be the wrong one. Then, clip the new spring to fit.
 

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When you release the trigger, it could allow the sear bar to go up enough, to engage the firing pin tail. It's a Type 14 thing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Makes sense to me and, no, the present firing pin is not numbered to match the gun (everything else matches including the magazine). It has a tiny single mark near the bottom of the shaft but it's so small I can't tell what it is. It may well be a non-Japanese replacement.
 

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The sear bar rotates around the side pin like a see-saw. The sear bar surface may be sticky and not letting the bar return to a level postion before the next round is loaded. Or more likely, the small spring that pushes down on the sear bar to force it back to the horizontal postion may be missing. It may be as simply as that.



- tge
 

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The sear bar rotates around the side pin like a see-saw. The sear bar surface may be sticky and not letting the bar return to a level postion before the next round is loaded. Or more likely, the small spring that pushes down on the sear bar to force it back to the horizontal position may be missing. It may be as simply as that.- tge
Based upon your comment about it stopping when you release the trigger, I believe that TGE has your answer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
The sear bar spring is definitely working (seems strong) and I can't detect any stickyness or hesitation when I manipulate the sear bar. Does the trigger mechanism somehow release the sear bar after a trigger pull but before the trigger is released to reset? I assume there must be some way either the sear or something else stops stops the firing pin after a single round or otherwise every Type 14 would be full auto.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I'll post a pic of mine tomorrow but does anyone have a closeup pic of their trigger group? The reason I ask is I think the front part of my trigger sear may be extremely worn (or slightly broken off) and pitches somewhat forward instead of proceeding more upward. It appears to me the trigger sear is supposed to, in effect, "turn loose" of the sear bar as the trigger is squeezed and mine is not doing it. Am I correct in how the sear is supposed to work or off-base?
 

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I'll post a pic of mine tomorrow but does anyone have a closeup pic of their trigger group? The reason I ask is I think the front part of my trigger sear may be extremely worn (or slightly broken off) and pitches somewhat forward instead of proceeding more upward. It appears to me the trigger sear is supposed to, in effect, "turn loose" of the sear bar as the trigger is squeezed and mine is not doing it. Am I correct in how the sear is supposed to work or off-base?
You are not completely off base. But the problem may be with the sear linkage in the trigger. The sear bar is rotated by the trigger link as the trigger is pulled. As the sear bar rotates, it releases the striker. The trigger link is then rotated by the barrel assembly as it moves to the rear by recoil action. The barrel assembly can actually move back about 3/8 inch during recoil. (If you look at the bottom side of the barrel, there is a small crecent-shaped cutout where the trigger link catch moves into. As the trigger link is rotated to the rear, it will release the sear bar and allows it to go back horizontal position by the force of the small sear spring which you said was in-place. With the sear bar back in normal position, it will catch the striker and hold it until the trigger is pulled again.

So you may have finally isolated the problem to the trigger link catch which lifts the sear bar (probably broken or worn), or it could be that cutout area of the barrel assembly that is worn along the rib edge that contacts the trigger link after discharge. Photos of that area would be nice to see, but if you strip the gun down to just the trigger group and frame with the mag installed, you will see how the trigger linkage works.

- tge
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I looked over the trigger group and saw how it worked within the frame, but the function I couldn't account for is the barrel assembly moving back during recoil. Thanks very much TGE, you've been a tremendous help. At least I've isolated the problem so I can do some testing and get this old girl back to 100%.
 
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