I am purchasing some Turk 8mm. I can't remember what years are questiionable. I know the pressures run hi, but some years are worse than others.
I would add 46 and 49 to the list of questionable years based upon personal experiences... lots of neck splits. It doesn't bother me much because I reuse the components and recycle the brass but I seldom actually shoot those years anymore.....Just be aware that 47 was the stinko year....
I've never had any bad Turk, but I have never really paid attention to the dates except for the 1950s non-magnetic stuff. I pulled quite a bit of it to download the ammo for my son when he was younger, and never really noticed much variation within years. Between years I think I noted a grain or a grain and a half difference, but that is expected from bulk powders.One word of caution is to "shake" each round and see if you can hear the powder sliding around inside the case.
If not, the cartridge has been overfilled and the power is being compressed by the projectile.
Back in the day (when Turk was almost free) folks would knock down all of it, reduce and equalize the powder charges and then re-load it and end up with a pile of "free" powder.
Other than the ones that split the cases or were never crimped properly, the problem with Turk is that the powder was not measuered properly, if at all, so group size/s are inconsistant.
Reports are that the altered charge Turk shot very good groups, with the rear sight ramp set to 200 or 300 meters (at 100 meters).
Recoil was vastly reduced as well.
By all means don't reject 1947, just negotiate the price so that you may get credit on split necks, as I did on my crate.I had exactly one bando of the bad 1947. The other dozen or so were fine. Sounds as if many folks had bad '47 ammo, but I had only that one bad batch, so I'd recommend a careful looking over before purchase rather than a blanket rejection just because it was 1947. Do be aware it is corrosive & clean accordingly.