Thats all I was trying to convey..More isn't better, and nothing is best. More nice original rifles have been messed up by "conservation" efforts than being left alone.
I hear you. I've used it on $3,000+ rifles, particularly an untouched literally mintThats all I was trying to convey..
I would take a dry stock over a "saved" stock anyday.
I use Howards on sub-$500 guns but thats just me..
I have used the Tru-Oil on new black powder kits. It is a finish. Do NOT do it. It will add a new finish, not help the old.What about Birchwood-Casey "Tru-Oil"?
Anyone have any experience with this?
(Our gunsmith here at the shop says he uses that, but I wanted to ask the 98k "experts"...)
+1 on regular Danish Oil. It is superb, german invented and contains toxic mineral spirits which MOLD can't live on!Tru oil, and poly urethane work well. Watco Danish finish does too. I love the shiney look it leaves on the wood and it will protect the wood near forever.
I have never used Howard's but I have respect for several of those who propound its benefits. With that said, I approve of what Award posted. Exactly my thoughts on the subject! :thumbsup:Two choices:
1. Leave it alone(most original).
2. Apply a finish and ruin the originality.
Applying anything like tru-oil, danish whatever, real tung oil, formbys or anything else is altering the original finish that you cannot reverse. That degrades the value of the rifle. With that said, howards feed n wax is not noticable if you choose to listen to hambone. The only way to bring the moisture content back up to par is to place the stock in an enviroment that has a little higher humidity for a long period of time. Wood will take on moisture of the surrounding air. If you do this, remove the action from the stock and put it away somewhere until the you feel the stock is ready. Never put water directly on the stock though.
Has anyone ever seen the timber that comes out of an old northern farm house? It is bone dry. This comes from years of not using humidifiers in the winters.