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Was looking at a .17 for awhile but figured since I already order cases at a time for my PSL it would be better to just get a mosin, they look great to me, and they have history behind them so why not. I am wondering what is the difference between the hex and round recievers, and how the accuracy differs between the long and shorter barreled versions. Not looking for a tack driver but it would be nice if it was consistant. Have about 200 or so to spend and am looking at some from JG Sales....would pay a handpick fee so what should I get for backyard shooting of 150-200 yards?
 

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For plinking at 150 - 200 yards you can't go wrong with a 91/30. The longer sight radius over a carbine would be better for the longer range shooting. No difference in hex (made up to 1936) or round other than years of manufacture. As with any other rifle try to get the best bore possible; if I was going to pay a hand pick fee I would state bore condition was what I was looking for. I have several 91/30s that shoot consistent 2 - 2.5 inch groups at 100yds with the ammo they like. My best carbine groups at that distance usually run closer to 4 inches.

PAshutr3
 

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With $200 to spend you ought to be able to get a VERY nice 91/30 and have enough left over to keep her fed for quite a few range outings. I love my carbines but some of my 91/30's are extremely accurate.
 

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Well looks like you need to be warned!

It's strange how Mosin Nagants can multiply, odd part is it don't take two.
After the 1st one they keep showing up.
Have bought several from AIM SURPLUS and have always had good dealins with them.
The 91/30 is still about the best deal out there and ammo is still available.
 

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Well looks like you need to be warned!

It's strange how Mosin Nagants can multiply, odd part is it don't take two.
After the 1st one they keep showing up.
Have bought several from AIM SURPLUS and have always had good dealins with them.
The 91/30 is still about the best deal out there and ammo is still available.
Everyone here is absolutely right. Especially this guy. LoL!

I personally went off to a dominantly Finnish collection, but the first rifle I ever got was an M91-30 VKT. When I first got the gun, I actually thought (even though it was in good/great condition) that it seemed too fragile to go plinkin' with.

Took it out. Got one round out of a surplus box and popped it in.
Aimed.
Shot.
Dumped the rest of the box onto the tailgate and started loading. I was hitting Aquafina bottle tops with free sights, as far as I could put them out without losing 'em.

There's two things I'll say; just from what I've gathered. Might not be concrete accuarate.

Some people go through a lot of trouble to find sights to match his (or her.. LoL) own eyes. The second rifle I purchased shot 9-11 inches high, when set at the 100 meter mark. I was hitting the middle of my targets at 500 yards. It's a simple sight adjustment that is self-explanatory when you look for 'new' sights, but it's just food for thought.
I imagine some people have had more trouble than I have with finding the right adjustment in height, and some have probably pulled their rifle outta the box and driven nails. It varies. But you'll be happy with a 91-30.

Second: Light ball ammo. I've personally gotten annoyed with sampling heavy ball and fighting to eject the swollen casing. Otherwise, that's it; and use Windex for solution to avoid corrosion! =D (It's the ammonia you need, but you probably already knew that.)
 

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Good points gunsalesman but I want to add two points to avoid confusion. The heavy ball I have used doesn't swell. The real problem is the lacquered coating which is also found on some light ball and is just as sticky which prevents easy ejection. Search for "sticky bolt syndrome" for more.

You don't need ammonia for corrosive ammo, you just need to rinse the primer salts out. Water works fine but even easier is just using Hoppes #9. There have been tons of posts on corrosion and there are lots of opinions. I use the recommendations of some of the long-time experts.
 
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