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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello folks,
I’ve acquired a “war finish” Webley MkIV in .38/200. The alignment pin that is pressed into the extractor star is sheered off inside the corresponding hole in the cylinder (see pic). I can probably fashion another pin out of a drill bit or similar, but have a couple questions first.

1) I should be able to punch out the end that is set in the extractor. Which direction should I punch? Toward the rear (toward the ratchet) or toward the front (toward the cylinder)? Are there procedures for this to minimize chance of breaking the extractor or one of the “stars” off of he extractor?

2) Any good methods for extracting the sheared pin from the cylinder hole? It’s a dead end hole so pin can only come out straight back. I’d like to avoid drilling if possible.

I assume these pins shear on occasion and was hoping some folks here are familiar with fixing this issue.

Thanks!
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Punching out the portion stuck in the extractor should go in the direction it functions. Outside going in. Make up a wooden block. A hole for the stem and a shallow one to catch the stub. Light taps should do it. Question remains as to how it got stuck there in the first place. It should just push out fairly easily without much force.
This type of problem comes on other revolvers when people remove the rod without dropping empties into the cylinder to take stress off the star.

The cylinder is another story. Some fine precision drilling for extraction. That isn't supposed to come out, so it's more than simply dropping in a new pin.

Given the value of the revolver, you might want to consider hiring a pro. I'm a hobbyist but not a certified 'smith. While I kind of understand the problem, it isn't one I might tackle with the tools at my disposal.
Think about it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
My understanding is the alignment pin (aka positioning pin) is fixed in the extractor, and movable in the cylinder. Armsresearch … what you’re saying is that the pin may be threaded into the extractor? I’ve given that part of the pin a few taps with a punch and it hasn’t budged. Hence my seeking of advice before I do much more.
 

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Yes, it's threaded into the extractor, you will need to drill it out unfortunately. I've got the factory Process Manuals and I check in the parts drawings section and that's what it says.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks kindly for this information.

Might anyone know a reputable smith with experience with Webleys generally, or this procedure specifically? I’ve not yet seen anywhere these threaded alignment pins are available for purchase.
 

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Well I certainly had that backwards in my mind's eye. Obviously I'm more familiar with 'Wesson's than Webleys! I appreciated being educated here.
Good reason not to trust the local parts changer too.

The only British savvy and trustworthy 'smith I'm aware of Stateside would be Brian Dick of BDL Ltd in South Carolina. I looked up his number for you.
(803) 637-5784
BDLLTD.com

Tuck that info away in the event you're unable to find someone near your locale.
Wouldn't hurt to mention the thread size in the extractor either now that you know it.
Good luck in getting it back to normal. :)
 

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Some years ago, I had a Mk. IV that wouldn't 'time' correctly. I 'fixed' that by buying a complete cylinder and extractor assembly (they were cheap at the time) that would time properly in my frame.

It mismatched the gun, but at least it would shoot, and I would have the correct, matching, parts to go with it if I sold the gun.

If you can't dig up someone that can do the work for you, this is an option you might want to consider.
 

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Apex usually carries parts for these .38 Webleys. You might be able to carefully cut a groove in the broken pins with a pointy dremel bit, soak in kroll and unscrew. Do the same on the pin in the cylinder to break it loose and then tap it out by striking the rear of the cylinder with a plastic mallet. Let inertia back it out. Just my .02.
 

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Hi Garand fan,
Check on a replacement cylinder as the other poster mentioned. They had the parts I needed for my Webley! Nice people to deal with TOO!
If you can find a local machine shop that has a EDM machine they can burn out the old stub very neatly. The remaining thread is usually remover with a piece of music wire or a small sharp jewelers screwdriver. Finding a genuine replacement part might be a challenge. Make the replacement pin out of tool steel , metric dies are out there -harden and temper properly!

Best of luck with your project,
point6
 

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Your in LUCK! stripped cylinder & complete cylinder in stock ! fair pricing TOO!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks for all the tips and advice! I am new to Webleys and now have a number of good ideas and potential options. Really appreciate all of you gunboards members!
 

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Do the math.
Complete cylinder assembly is $100+ with shipping and more if sales tax applies vs what it might cost to maintain originality.
Not my gun. Not my money. Not my call. But it might be worth considering?

Fortunately Apex has what is needed. That gives you a choice no matter what. A luxury not often had these days. You could try the replacement to tide you over as you patiently source a proper repair?
Later you can recoup some cash by selling off the replacement. Any loss could be chalked up as a rental fee. Or you could turn it into a way cool pencil holder?

Any way you look at it, no doom and gloom today!
 

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Hi Garand Fan,

That's why we are here to HELP each other! The guys here , the CMP site & others sites are my go to source for good info!
 

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Mark Novak's video "Anvil 016: Webley revolver cylinder maintenance" here:
, has some interesting stuff at about 8 minutes in.

Peter
 

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Great video, It looks like a easy fix! I personally would use drill press & to make sure I drilled the hole STRAIGHT!

Good Luck,
point6
 

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personally would use drill press & to make sure I drilled the hole STRAIGHT! point6
Yes, but you are not Novak! Read the bit at the beginning which basically says "if you don't have my training, years of gunsmithing and skills don't try it".

Peter
 

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Good video dealing exactly with the problem at hand. Thanks for that.
Raises a question though going back into this particular topic. Which models have pressed in pins vs threaded?
 

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Yes, but you are not Novak! Read the bit at the beginning which basically says "if you don't have my training, years of gunsmithing and skills don't try it".


Hi Sir,
I am a retired Tool & Die maker that has made stuff that is still working on the moon & Mars for over thirty years. I worked on many military & commercial satellites & various micro miniature medical systems for clearing out vein's & arteries.

The German MASTER tool maker I worked under ALWAYS, said it's better to KNOW that hole is straight then guess!
He suggested many little nuggets of wisdom that worked well for me & other guys. Like use a sharp drill, THINK well BEFORE you start the job & have a back up plan!
Good point as if or when they went to a threaded part or went to a hardened pin! Who is still alive that would have a good idea?

I hope the OP gets it repaired!

Best wish's to all,
point6
 
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