Gunboards Forums banner
1 - 7 of 7 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
175 Posts
Shellac. When I refinish, I clean with paint stripper, steam the dents, let the stock dry completely, steel wool, put a coat of BLO on and let dry for a few days, then pad several coats of Zinsser amber shellac, which are knocked down with steel wool to remove excess shine. There are some varieties of shellac flakes that might be more authentic. I don't use sand paper at all. These pics show up shiny because of the camera flash.



 

· Registered
Joined
·
1,668 Posts
The walnut ones were linseed oiled and polished, all the later beech ones just got a shellac layer.
When the rifles got refurbished (and most were) by the arsenals they used shellac even on the older walnut ones so both is also kind of correct.
You could check what's on that walnut one by using some alcohol, shellac dissolves in alcohol.

Guisan.:)
 

· Registered
Joined
·
356 Posts
Use a tea kettle and hold the dent over the steam. Sometimes it helps to puncture the wood in the dent with a pin to allow the steam to enter. Unfortunately the dents on older rifles are dark and remain so when raised unless sanded to remove the dark part. That's why you'll see refinished rifles with dark marks on them, old dents.
 

· Silver Bullet member
Joined
·
1,104 Posts
be advised that the older the shellac is, the slower it is to dissolve in alcohol. don't expect it to melt upon contact.

I think the straight amber is a little dark. maybe a 1:3 clear ro amber might be closer. of course, the good news is, fresh shellac is easy to remove with alcohol so you can do it over and over till it's right.
 
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top