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Silver Bullet member
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Rather than go to the military handgun forum, I thought I would ask here.

The problem in both a Dreyse 1907 and Frommer-Stop are the same: When fully loaded, the first few rounds won't feed (they hit at the bottom of the chambers) but will start working when its only 4-5 rounds in the magazine. The Dreyse seems to be a bit better, with only the first round acting up when dummy rounds are hand-cycled.

The Dreyse also has the nose of the follower bent upwards and the feed lips look like they have been worked on, as if someone was trying to fix the issue already. Frommer-Stop mag looks original and unmolested.

Can post pics if that would help
 

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same ammo?

I have a Colt 1903 that with one (factory original, but a bit beat) mag will not feed some types of ammo, with a full mag

it will work with those types with only a few rounds in the mag

but the same mag will run all day long with Fiocchi ball in it

(32ACP)
 

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Will either of the magazines allow you to remove the floor plate from the magazine?

I'm wondering if the magazine spring is a bit too strong when the mag s fully loaded. Too much spring tension under the rounds in the mag when fully loaded,,,,too much tension pushing on the first rd (or first couple of rds) and the slide not able to cleanly strip them out of the mag.

Once a couple rds are out of the mag the spring tension is lessened,,then the rds are easier to strip from the mag and the slide has no problem doing that and the rds can slide right up the feed ramp and chamber w/o any interference from the round underneath it in the mag pushing on it with high spring tension.

If you can remove the floor plate and allow the mag spring to drop out of the magazine body a coil or two,,then find a way of securing it in that position. That would be the same as clipping the spring shorter to try out the theory but w/o damaging the spring.
You'd have to do this with the mag charged with a full compliment of rounds to then test and see if the lesser spring tension makes a difference in feeding the first rds out of the magazine.
Maybe you have another mag spring that you could replace the orig with and give it a try to see if it feeds more reliably.
One with less tension but you could still fully charge the magazine and see if the first rd(s) will chamber.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Unfortunately the floorplates are not removable.

For the Dreyse it makes sense, someone has been messing with the mag so a stiffer spring might have been put in.

Frommer is a mystery

I do have various extra mag springs I could try out.

Sent from my SM-T820 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Here are some pics

Rectangle Silver Wood Auto part Font

Dryese (left) and Frommer-Stop (right), note the pinned bottoms

Rectangle Wood Automotive exterior Bumper Auto part

Other side, I didn't realize just how beat up they were until I took photos
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Dreyse Magazine, its hard to tell from the photo, but the follower is bent upwards in the front. Whats not hard to tell is someone beat on the feed lips

Composite material Auto part Rectangle Metal Household hardware


Font Metal Rectangle Electric blue Fashion accessory
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Frommer-Stop. Beginning to wonder if the spring is messing with the geometry of the follower, it seems to push it way too forward.

Composite material Household hardware Rectangle Metal Aluminium


Household hardware Composite material Gas Metal Aluminium
 

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Try reversing the spring the Frommer magazine ,,Front to Back & Top to Bottom

See if there is a shorter 'end' or loop the other end of the spring. That often is the one that is supposed to go under the follower and face forward.
But nothing is set in stone as far as absolute rules of application to all magazines.

Many magazines have definate top, bottom, front and back positions. Some not.
 

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Should be able to remove the follower by compressing the spring and put a small punch through the side holes to hold it in place. Follower should come out then. Then do what ktr said. Might also try a 1911 or a 380 mustang mag spring if it will fit.
 

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First check is change ammo.

Second is change mags. (Not option here, but glad you had two to try)

On unmolestered mags, first thing is making sure both followers and springs are correctly oriented.

If same person got their hands on both the mags, likely reassembled both the same way, and possibly wrong.

Famous example and one I've done... PSL's malfunction constantly if you get mag spring backwards, and no good indication do people get them wrong alot.

Next... I assembled all my m1 carbine mags with followers backwards, and only caught it because one was sticking hard when backwards.
 

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I would NOT cut coils off any springs. They are essentially long, bent torsion bars. The more length they have to twist, the less and more equal the force to compress for the same spring length. Coils are good and you don't want to get rid of them too willingly.

Or thus is my understanding. Am still learning, including coil and flat spring making info.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Dreyse behaved the same with live Remington and dummy rounds. IIRC F-S did not like live rounds at all. Never had them apart.

Looks like I have a new winter project

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Will either of the magazines allow you to remove the floor plate from the magazine?

I'm wondering if the magazine spring is a bit too strong when the mag s fully loaded. Too much spring tension under the rounds in the mag when fully loaded,,,,too much tension pushing on the first rd (or first couple of rds) and the slide not able to cleanly strip them out of the mag.

Once a couple rds are out of the mag the spring tension is lessened,,then the rds are easier to strip from the mag and the slide has no problem doing that and the rds can slide right up the feed ramp and chamber w/o any interference from the round underneath it in the mag pushing on it with high spring tension.

If you can remove the floor plate and allow the mag spring to drop out of the magazine body a coil or two,,then find a way of securing it in that position. That would be the same as clipping the spring shorter to try out the theory but w/o damaging the spring.
You'd have to do this with the mag charged with a full compliment of rounds to then test and see if the lesser spring tension makes a difference in feeding the first rds out of the magazine.
Maybe you have another mag spring that you could replace the orig with and give it a try to see if it feeds more reliably.
One with less tension but you could still fully charge the magazine and see if the first rd(s) will chamber.
or some one cleaned mag. put springs in backwards or up side down?<>>
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Okay, looked at some photos of Dreyse mags online and the follower is NOT supposed to be bent. I can straighten it out but want to save that for last.

Will do the Frommer spring flip sometime this weekend.
 

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It could be that someone didn't mess up the mags the same way, and that it's the gun.

A good check... remove reaction/recoil/etc springs so you can slowly cycle the gun manually without fighting the spring and being able to FEEL everything. You could find that something wore and is too wiggly, or that something is bending, peening, burring, etc, and you're getting high friction during a certain point of the cycling.

But ya, if the followers are both modified like you identified, may easily just be the mags/followers. But the manual cycling could help identify other issues developing.
 
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