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Discussion Starter #1
Since Sarco had them for $19.95 and I was ordering other stuff, I took the plunge.

The good news is that its patina'ed but rust-free. The bad news is that the front screw was replaced by a peened-in shaft. You an see where there used to be some black anodizing under the grips, and the only marking is a serial number on the pommel in the format of XX999

That shaft loose enough for me to move the grips around and clean out the inside, very dirty but no visible rust. On the one hand, I would love to remove it (pound it out) to get a thorugh cleaning, then find a proper screw. On the other, for as little as I have in it, its almost not worth the extra effort. I can re-mushroom the loose head to tighten it back up when its cleaned/oiled inside and then polish everything on the outside.

Going by pics on the Internet, it looks like about half the units have the front screws replaced with mushroomed shafts.

So I thought I would ask what others were getting when they ordered.

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Couldn't help myself, decided to try and remove what turned out to be a nail.

It stood up enough that I could file it down to paper-thin without hurting the grips too much, then used a punch to push it out.

Glad I did, missed a lot of grime, and turned out one grip had a chip taken off long ago. Since they were off the bayo, hot tap water and dishwashing soap cleaned them right up.

If I cannot find screws, will order some from GPC

Pics tomorrow

Sent from my SM-T820 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Okay, got home and really started cleaning the bayonet. Again, no rust, but lots and lots of grime.

Been trading PMs, and someone selling Turk M5 bayonets on the trader has one with a damaged left grip, but both screws. Since I have a good left, I can make one good one out of the two.

Sarco was good enough to send an aluminum shell casing to cover the point, I was able to cut it up, flatten the pieces, and use it to shim up the front crossguard and rear pommel so they are pretty solid now. I also used a bit of old bronze head gasket as well since its thinner, pretty pleased with how it came out.

Pics in a bit.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Pictures

20201102_191459.jpg

One bent screw and one peened nail.



20201102_191520.jpg
20201102_191526.jpg

Front shims



20201102_191533.jpg
20201102_191539.jpg

Rear shims


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20201102_191803.jpg

Grips front and back


20201102_191831.jpg

The chip out of the right panel in the front is more obvious in this pic

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
 

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Thanks for the info--I was curious about those bayos and your first-hand experience is appreciated. Also, kudos for the "fluff and buff" story---ain't OCD wonderful:)
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Got a second bayonet courtesy of the Trader. I wanted one with two screws, and could live with a damaged grip on it, as it was the opposite of the one I had.

(sorry no pictures)

The good news is that the blade was in better shape than the first one, and in fact had two screws. The bad news is the grips aren't flush, and I had to use a punch to drive out the forward screw since it was buggered to heck and not moving.

Blade has the same triangle under the grips and an XX999 format serial number on the back, it did not have a V on the crossguard though.

Also ordered two sets of screws from Numrich/GPC, so that ought to help when I reassemble them.

As the saying goes "give a lazy man a job, and he'll find a better way to do it" Well, I can be lazy at times. Found a better way to tighten the crossguard. What happens is the hollow rivet that holds the two pieces of sheetmetal that keep the guard in place loosens up, hence the movement. So I used a punch to widen it from the inside, then a wide punch to flatten it back down. The crossguard still moves, but its not that bad and I can shim it with some old head gasket chunks. On this one, the rear was still pretty tight, so its inherently the better blade.

One grip more than the other "rocks" on a flat surface, and I lack the facilities to properly file/sand them down. Apparently bending them is not a solution since chunks have come off. I'll probably just shim them up when I assemble.

I think I am going to just swap over the better grips and lever bar from the Sarco bayonet to the better blade. That way all the good parts and all the meh ones are together.

However, I have one last one Turk bayonet coming in, I want to see what that one looks like.

Now for the fun question: Should I polish up the aluminum grips, or try to find a spray-on product to make them look presentable? I don't think its worth the effort for a proper anodizing/blackening job.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
While waiting on the third and final bayonet, I decided to try and bend the grips back a little. I put one end in the vise and then rapped the other with a nylon hammer a few times. While the grips are still not flush, they are a far sight better than they are. Decided its not worth the risk to go for perfection on these.

Still need to polish the blades, but both are totally clean now.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Okay, got my third and final Turk M5 bayonet. The seller said I was getting their best one, and they weren't kidding.

This one had both screws, and they came with medium effort. The crossguard doesn't move at all, and the pommel just needed a bit of hammering on the bottom to get it to stop.

Grips have the usual wear and distortions, but were flush with each other.

Blade is the absolute best of the three, in fact it looks like it had been rebuilt and re-serialed.

Will post pics once I get it cleaned up.

The game plan will be leave this one as-is and give it the best screws, maybe swap in the better button/lever. The other two will get their grips swapped so the better grips are on the better blades, they also get the Numrich replacement screws.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Bumping to say I've really learned a lot about these guys while working on them, and am thankful I have someone to save me from my own stupidity.

Now that the holidays are winding down, should have some pics posted soon.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Okay, have some pictures from the most recent Turk Bayonet that I picked up. It was from a member who set me up with an example that still had both screws.

3781558

(As-received, note while it has both screws, they are not exactly in great shape)

3781559

(A new serial number was etched in overtop the original stamped one, so this one was rebuilt at some point, that would also explain its better condition)

3781560

(This is what they look like on the inside, no rust, but a lot of dirt)

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(not a lot of corrosion at all. Note the triangle, the other two had similar markings)

3781563

(the grips butt up against the steel, again, no corrosion, just wear and dirt)

3781564

(close-up detail, note that it was worked on here, I still needed to shim it slightly)

3781565

(This is the closest there was to rust on anything. It polished out)

Next up, I will go into more detail about the cleaning and some of the work I did on these, with more pictures.
 

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How long ago did these Turkish M5 come into country? I don't recall seeing them when the Turks unloaded all their creations 10 to 15 years ago. (Maybe longer?)

Anyway, back then Dennis Ottobre published his observations and findings on the Turk lot. Wondering if there's a possibility he might have more information for you?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
These seem to be within the last few years. Maybe they found a few crates they forgot about when the rest came over.

Anyway, here are the grip sets

First is the Sarco set

3781783

Note the upper grip has a circle around the screw hole, as if a damaged section had been replaced. Immediately below that is where a chip was taken out of the grip, On the lower grip I highlighted the file marks where the peened-out nail was filed down so it could be pushed out.

Next is the first set of grips I picked up off the Trader
3781784

Its not visible, but the lower grip has a chip taken out of it as well. I highlighted the hole where I went Homer Simpson and pounded out a stuck screw, which also damaged the threads.

Finally, we have the second set of grips from the Trader, the seller made sure this had two screws
3781785

Note the olive drab paint over the black anodizing, and wear by the lower left screw hole

Between the three sets of grips, I had two sets of screws
3781786

(well, one of the screws is actually bent, its hard to tell in this photo)

These are the replacement screws from Numrich/GPC, which were intended for plastic grips
3781787



So here is why my grip misadventure begins.

I figured I could just screw them in and let them "cut" their own threads, right? Did this by hand and snap broke the screw in half. Channeling both Homer Simpson and Tim Taylor from Home Improvement, I figured what I needed was more power. To make a long story short, I ended up snapping off the screw inside the grip. I wasn't able to pound it out, and my attempts to drill it out only damaged the grip more. I ended up packing them up with all the screws to my "white knight" buddy. After throwing ideas back and forth, he said keep the Sarco and Trader 1 grips together as they came since they "fit" together better. He then made the damaged hole larger and tapped it for some screws he had on-hand (after I took some micrometer meausrements of the holes in the bayonet to make sure they would fit). They are on the way back to me now.
 

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Now you know. A $3 tap costs less than replacement grips. A little turning time and the US screws can look Turk. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Well, fortunately my White Knight buddy enjoys doing stuff like this, or at least tolerates it from me so I looked up.

To change the story a bit. Decided to get some M8 scabbards, sorta-kinda. Turns out Apex has Greek returns with damaged bodies for a reasonable price (but they come in 5-packs). I got three usable ones, one semi-usable (one tab broken off) and one that is unusable. My plan is to get the Danish wooden M8 scabbard bodies from Sarco and put them together. Again, its not about the money, its about the experience.

Will get pics when I get home
 

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Seems with this project, I take one step forward and two steps back.

The 5-pack of M8A1 scabbards was interesting, all of them had their straps (though a couple were ratty); and 4/5 bodies were broken off near the bottom. Surpising to me was one body was nothing but white plastic. After using a small screwdriver to carefully free up the lot, I have three solid tops, one with a broken tab, and one that is unusable (it was cracked in the back and came apart).

3782187

The best three tops, note the middle one with a broken tab.

3782189

The metal clip springs and plastic spacers. The former were in great shape, the latter not so much

So here is the problem, below is a comparison between the usable M8A1 body (top) and the Danish body I got from Sarco (bottom).

3782191

3782192


Good thing the Dutch scabbards are wood, looks like I will need to Dremel® the edges down to make them fit into the tops.
 

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A lot of work and hopefully solely for love of a hobby as you can buy these in good condition with the scabbard from Dupage for $30. They also used to have a unique Turkish made short M-5 style bayonet made out of rehilted Mauser bayonets. I’ll dig mine out tomorrow and post a picture if you would like?
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
I'm hip deep in rehabbing these M8A1s actually, but a photo would be nice for other members.

I took a file to the Danish scabbard I have now and it fits snugly in two and not at all in the other two. Looking at the pic again, I may need to just chisel down those corners a bit. I also thinned the lugs rather than taking off the corners, will try that with the next scabbard.

I used Paint 3D to overlay the USGI scabbard with the Danish one, makes it easier to see where I need to trim

3782269




I have email off to a company that 3-D prints followers and will see if they would be willing to try the spacers. I just don't have a lot of thick hard plastic laying around.

Grips are not back yet so the project is on hold for now
 

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Here are the two different types and as you can see they have different types of metal scabbards.
3782390
3782391
3782392
3782393
3782394
 

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Discussion Starter #19
That is a serious bead of weld on that second one, is the body material plastic or something else? On the first it looks like sheetmetal
 
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