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I don't know about the OP, but I have very specific reasons for doing what I have done. I have a large quantity of Turk Mauser ammo. The unaltered ammo will be used in bolt-action Turkish Mausers. Some of this ammo from one tin had cracked necks. I went through the whole tin and picked out each round with cracked necks/loose bullets, resulting in a few hundred rounds of unusable ammo. This is the ammo that I have reduced and loaded into fresh boxer primed brass, for some safe, non-corrosive ammo for the FN49. I do know what I'm doing and am confident that this ammunition will be safe and reliable in this old rifle.

I will never, never fire unaltered Turk (or '50s Yugo) ammo in this rifle (ever again). I fired some of each back in the day, a couple decades ago when both types were cheap and plentiful and it wasn't yet common knowledge that they were damaging to semi-autos. I've had this rifle for over 30 years and have no intention of damaging it.

I'm not sure why you guys are focusing on blowing up rifles with full-power Turk ammo, as the whole point of this thread is downloading it. Sure, we could just trash this old ammo and buy new, but we all might have different economic circumstances, and place different levels of value on our time. I think it's a perfectly legitimate discussion to have, and if done carefully can be perfectly safe.
 

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I shoot em all cracks and all in Turks and most any 98 action without issue. No blow back or any nasties. Had a guy in the shop once complaining of blow back in a well worn 88/93. Bolt closed on NO GO and Field like they wern't there.
 

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Interesting video. It contradicts what I've heard about Turk ammo, other than the fact that it is hot (3200fps is smoking hot, in my opinion).

I'm quite comfortable with by backed-off load at just over 2700 fps. It was actually pleasant to shoot. Going from full loads in a bolt action, to the reduced loads in the FN49, I could have shot it all day. The up side is that it's easier on the shoulder, easier on the gun, easier on the brass, and I don't have to tear it down completely to clean the whole gas system afterwards.

I've shot a number of different years of Turk ammo. I had a bunch of '47 at one point, and LOTS of cracked brass. I had a case of '38 without a single cracked neck. The recent batch I picked all the cracks out of was '50. Nearly 300 had cracked necks, but I shot a fair amount of the uncracked ammo from the same lot, and zero cracked on firing. The fired brass looked just as nice and clean as new ammo.

Call me picky, but I won't shoot cracked ammo any more, not knowingly at least. I know that cracked case necks aren't anything really dangerous, but I've gotten more picky as I get older.
 

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“It contradicts what I've heard about Turk ammo“...well if you heard it was not good in gas semi autos? Still valid.

The guy modified his rifle with a smaller gas port...he used the bullets and powder to make a new cartridge. So we have a modified rifle NOT shooting Turk ammo but a reload with some Turk components.

Maybe it is the laboratory scientist in me. But he was not shooting “Turk Ammo” in a issue milsurp rifle. I also wonder if his Chronny had been calibrated recently.
 

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“It contradicts what I've heard about Turk ammo“...well if you heard it was not good in gas semi autos? Still valid.

The guy modified his rifle with a smaller gas port...he used the bullets and powder to make a new cartridge. So we have a modified rifle NOT shooting Turk ammo but a reload with some Turk components.

Maybe it is the laboratory scientist in me. But he was not shooting “Turk Ammo” in a issue milsurp rifle. I also wonder if his Chronny had been calibrated recently.
Not really... nothing wrong with modifying a G43....unless you condone shooting them without modifications.

It was turk powder and projectile loaded into new brass no adjustments... because as stated... brittle brass.

Then it was shot against other 8mm milsurp and the bolt didn't move any faster which indicates it's not a slow powder and that the port pressures are similar.

That kinda disproves that it's unsafe for gas guns.
 

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The biggest issue with Turk ammo is the brittle brass.

Put it in new brass and it's fine for gas guns.

https://youtu.be/vX39uxaxjyI
Despite ALL the evidence to the contrary, developed from YEARS of experience from Hundreds or thousands of shooters, you STILL choose to believe this?

More power to you, but I don't plan on buying any of your used semi-auto rifles in 8mm. I learned MY lesson a bout tn years ago.
 

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Not really... nothing wrong with modifying a G43....unless you condone shooting them without modifications.

It was turk powder and projectile loaded into new brass no adjustments... because as stated... brittle brass.

Then it was shot against other 8mm milsurp and the bolt didn't move any faster which indicates it's not a slow powder and that the port pressures are similar.

That kinda disproves that it's unsafe for gas guns.
I understand you are a big fan of debunking the popular story on this ammo.

But

It proves you can use it as reloading components in a modified G43. Nothing more. What he was shooting was NOT Turkish mfg 8mm ammo.
 

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Despite ALL the evidence to the contrary, developed from YEARS of experience from Hundreds or thousands of shooters, you STILL choose to believe this?

More power to you, but I don't plan on buying any of your used semi-auto rifles in 8mm. I learned MY lesson a bout tn years ago.
What evidence to the contrary?
 

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I understand you are a big fan of debunking the popular story on this ammo.

But

It proves you can use it as reloading components in a modified G43. Nothing more. What he was shooting was NOT Turkish mfg 8mm ammo.
And the difference in that and not messed with Turk ammo was what? New brass that wasn't brittle. Because if you use the turk brass...you risk a case head failure.

No what it actually means is that the port pressure of it and other milsurp 8mm is approximately the same.

Which means it's fine in gas guns.
 

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And the difference in that and not messed with Turk ammo was what? New brass that wasn't brittle. Because if you use the turk brass...you risk a case head failure.

No what it actually means is that the port pressure of it and other milsurp 8mm is approximately the same.

Which means it's fine in gas guns.
How much of it have you shot in a gas gun? Which guns?
 

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G43, FN49 and G41

why?
Because your experience might be more extensive, valuable than the modified gun in the video... 3 modified rounds fired (dates of mfg unknown) in a modified rifle is not a valid test/validation of ammo made over a 20 plus year run and arriving after varied storage conditions.

What dates have you reloaded into new brass? Do you reduce the Turk powder charge ever?
 

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All I know is that I did have some damage to my FN49 close to 20 years ago, with Turk ammo, and it wasn't a case head failure. Maybe a brittle old gun that would have had several parts break anyhow? I don't know. All I do know is that there is no way I will shoot full power Turk ammo in it ever again.

That, and numerous stories over the years of guns damaged and shooter injured. Maybe all those stories are fake or mistaken; I can't tell for sure because I wasn't there. They're just that- stories.

BUT- my personal experience combined with a lot of stories equals a preponderance of evidence. That's enough for me. I won't do it.
 

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Because your experience might be more extensive, valuable than the modified gun in the video... 3 modified rounds fired (dates of mfg unknown) in a modified rifle is not a valid test/validation of ammo made over a 20 plus year run and arriving after varied storage conditions.

What dates have you reloaded into new brass? Do you reduce the Turk powder charge ever?
So you condone shooting unmodified G43s?

I think the dates were listed..1942 and 1950. And the rounds were modified but dumping the powder and projectile into new brass. Thats it. Do you think it's advisable to shoot brass with known brittle brass?

I haven't shot my turk ammo in a while...but I remember I had to adjust the powder as my new brass had less capacity. I used my chrony and adjusted the powder charge until it duplicated unmodified turk ammo. It was only a few grains difference. IIRC. That way pressure and velocity was the same as the milsurp.
 

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All I know is that I did have some damage to my FN49 close to 20 years ago, with Turk ammo, and it wasn't a case head failure. Maybe a brittle old gun that would have had several parts break anyhow? I don't know. All I do know is that there is no way I will shoot full power Turk ammo in it ever again.

That, and numerous stories over the years of guns damaged and shooter injured. Maybe all those stories are fake or mistaken; I can't tell for sure because I wasn't there. They're just that- stories.

BUT- my personal experience combined with a lot of stories equals a preponderance of evidence. That's enough for me. I won't do it.
So what was your damage? But 8mm FNs have a bad rap compared to the other calibers. Every report of a damaged gun or injuries due to turk showed the effects of case failure due to brittle brass. Lots of stories and assumptions lead to misinformation..
 

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So you condone shooting unmodified G43s?

I think the dates were listed..1942 and 1950. And the rounds were modified but dumping the powder and projectile into new brass. Thats it. Do you think it's advisable to shoot brass with known brittle brass?

I haven't shot my turk ammo in a while...but I remember I had to adjust the powder as my new brass had less capacity. I used my chrony and adjusted the powder charge until it duplicated unmodified turk ammo. It was only a few grains difference. IIRC. That way pressure and velocity was the same as the milsurp.
Well I shot a lot 70s FNM SS ball in mine with no damage, so I am at least as qualified as you to comment on G43s with my one experience...so unmodified G43s are good to go. They never used S type 154gr ball like your Turk reload in service.

Please stop stating or inferring “Turk Ammo” is OK in semi autos or MGs when you are working up a RELOAD using Turk components. Guys get confused. It CAN produce a useable reload sure, but Turk 8mm isn’t fine as it is.
 

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So you condone shooting unmodified G43s?

I think the dates were listed..1942 and 1950. And the rounds were modified but dumping the powder and projectile into new brass. Thats it. Do you think it's advisable to shoot brass with known brittle brass?

I haven't shot my turk ammo in a while...but I remember I had to adjust the powder as my new brass had less capacity. I used my chrony and adjusted the powder charge until it duplicated unmodified turk ammo. It was only a few grains difference. IIRC. That way pressure and velocity was the same as the milsurp.
Well I shot a lot 70s FNM SS ball in mine with no damage, so I am at least as qualified as you to comment on G43s with my one experience...so unmodified G43s are good to go. They never used S type 154gr ball like your Turk reload in service.

Please stop stating or inferring “Turk Ammo” is OK in semi autos or MGs when you are working up a RELOAD using Turk components. Guys get confused. It CAN produce a useable reload sure, but Turk 8mm isn’t fine as it is.
Unmodified G43s are overgassed from the factory. EVERYONE knows this and restricting them is a necessity if you want to keep it shooting for a long time.

You are correct turk isn't safe in mgs or gas guns as is...that's my point. The brass is brittle.

Putting it in new brass now makes it fine for mgs or gas guns.

My "reload" was to turk spec with the Turk components except new brass...

Same pressure.. same velocity.. same ammo basically.
 

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I'm confused here. I have never once heard of Turk ammo letting go with a cracked case head. I have heard and experienced many, many times cracked necks, but cracked necks are very different from cracked heads. Case necks are supposed to be soft, to hold the bullet and seal the chamber. The case head needs to be hard and tough, to contain the pressure. Metallurgically, these are two very different things. Cracked necks happen when the brass at the neck isn't soft enough, and aren't usually a big deal. A case head failure typically happens due to defects in the case head itself, or the case head being too soft, and is a very big deal. I wasn't aware of case head failures being a problem with Turk ammo, only brittle necks.

I ask sincerely, because I could well be out of the loop on this. Ammolab, have you heard of case head failures with Turk ammo?
 

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I'm confused here. I have never once heard of Turk ammo letting go with a cracked case head. I have heard and experienced many, many times cracked necks, but cracked necks are very different from cracked heads. Case necks are supposed to be soft, to hold the bullet and seal the chamber. The case head needs to be hard and tough, to contain the pressure. Metallurgically, these are two very different things. Cracked necks happen when the brass at the neck isn't soft enough, and aren't usually a big deal. A case head failure typically happens due to defects in the case head itself, or the case head being too soft, and is a very big deal. I wasn't aware of case head failures being a problem with Turk ammo, only brittle necks.

I ask sincerely, because I could well be out of the loop on this. Ammolab, have you heard of case head failures with Turk ammo?
What happens is the brass itself is brittle and no longer elastic. So when it obturates in the chamber as the pressure builds up it doesn't return to it's smaller state as the pressure decreases.

This can give you heavy bolt lift as the brass is still contacting the chamber walls. In a bolt gun this isn't much of an issue...
In a gas gun (or MG) and the bolt begins to move before the case has "let go" of the chamber...something has to give. Usually it's the extractor pulling the case head and it tearing open in that location and the remaining pressure in the barrel/chamber vents into the action.

turkfail.jpg

New brass that is still "elastic" cures this issue and it's once again safe for gas guns/MGs.
 
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