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Discussion Starter #1
Anyone pull the bullets and reduce the powder charge? I'm considering it, as one bandolier opened up a substantial crack in the wrist of my Turk 03/30. Plus the recoil is awfull.
 

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I’ve done it but don’t recall the specifics. I think it averaged 46 to 50 grains when pulled and I ended up using around 40 when I reloaded. My batch had some bad primers though also so I just ended up pulling and using the bullets and trashing the rest.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I’ve done it but don’t recall the specifics. I think it averaged 46 to 50 grains when pulled and I ended up using around 40 when I reloaded. My batch had some bad primers though also so I just ended up pulling and using the bullets and trashing the rest.
Thank you. I've yet to have any primer issues with Turk but have had signs of high pressure.
 

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That ammo made me a lot of money repairing machineguns and semi's. We tested a bunch of it of different dates in a K98 which has a shorter barrel then the turk rifles it was intended for. We got chronograph readings running from 1600fps all the way up to 3400fps. No rhyme or reason to the variation and there was a lot of variation. The variation included all headstamp dates from 40-43. This tells me that there is something really wrong with that ammo that you can't just fix by dumping a few grains of powder. Guys will say its ok in bolt actions but for me its not worth fooling with. Good luck with your experiments

Frank
 

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I have just a few hundred rounds of 1952 Turk left. This Winter when bored I pulled the bullets and reloaded all with 44 grains of original powder. Original charge averaged around 47-48 grains and was a case full.

Shot good before, shoots good now.

Wrist cracks are usually the result of bad inletting (contact at the receiver tang) and or loose action screws. Can’t remember blaming ammo.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I have just a few hundred rounds of 1952 Turk left. This Winter when bored I pulled the bullets and reloaded all with 44 grains of original powder. Original charge averaged around 47-48 grains and was a case full.

Shot good before, shoots good now.

Wrist cracks are usually the result of bad inletting (contact at the receiver tang) and or loose action screws. Can’t remember blaming ammo.
Could very well be the case with inletting on the Turk. Action screws were tight enough. My ammo was 1942 and 1949 dated.
 

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I tried the 10% reduction. Can’t remember the exact number of grains now. Worked OK, though I didn’t use it in a 93. Romanian for those.
 

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I posted this some time back, but it may be helpful here:

Turkish 8x57 ammo fired in my stock 1938 Turk produced some interesting data for you fellow Turk shooters. The ammo came in the 70 rnd. bandoleers with 154 gr. bullets and 47.5 gr. of flake powder. This gave 2950 fps in that long barrel.

I pulled bullets and reloaded the cases with 35, 37, 39, 41, 43, and 45 gr. of the flake powder.
I fired 5 rounds of each, as well as 5 rounds of full-power loads (47.5 gr.)and chronographed them.
I shot from the bench at targets 50 yards away on a cold (32) and windy day (today) at targets with 1 inch bulls using a 6 o’clock hold.

Here are the velocities (rounded to nearest 10’) and the size and locations of the groups in relation to the bull (all using the same hold).

Powder charge Velocity Group size Location

47.5 2980 1.0” 3.5” low center

45 2770 1.75” 1.0” low .5” left

43 2700 1.75” .5” high 1.0” left

41 2610 1.50" 1.5" high 2.0" left

39 2510 1.50" 3.0" high 1.5" left

37 2410 2.00” 4.5” high 2.5” left

35 2300 .75” 5.5” high 4.7” left

Sure was interesting to see where the groups went and why.
 

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We had a very, very large amount of turk dated from 30s to 52. All shot well in Bolt action rifles. Only 1942 had seriously split necks and duds. The 52 was the best all around. All but the last case of 52 is now gone. Had over 25K rounds, all from Century and bought at a ridiculously low price- shipped!! They had a "spin the discount" wheel at the 2003 (?) SHOT show and due to free beer i bought the limit. Recall UPS hating me for a while. I would NEVER recommend it in semi -autos and know of some Hakims and G43s that had severe issues. Heard an M-1 garand converted to 8mm really had a problem!!

Curious to hear if anyone has had problems with turk in 1893s?
 

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I've shot some 8mm Turk in an Turkish 1893. It worked great. The stuff was mostly 20's vintage.
 

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We had a very, very large amount of turk dated from 30s to 52. All shot well in Bolt action rifles. Only 1942 had seriously split necks and duds. The 52 was the best all around. All but the last case of 52 is now gone. Had over 25K rounds, all from Century and bought at a ridiculously low price- shipped!! They had a "spin the discount" wheel at the 2003 (?) SHOT show and due to free beer i bought the limit. Recall UPS hating me for a while. I would NEVER recommend it in semi -autos and know of some Hakims and G43s that had severe issues. Heard an M-1 garand converted to 8mm really had a problem!!

Curious to hear if anyone has had problems with turk in 1893s?
I think the issue with the 1893/33 is more of a safety concern due to the designs lack of gas venting capability in case of a rupture. I've never heard of one blowing up from Turkish ammo. I can attest to the the lack of venting capability. Had a neck split while shooting light reloads and the resulting gas went into my face.
 

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I just pulled some 1950 Turk ammo down and decreased the powder charge. The factory charge was 48 grains, and I decreased it to 45 grains, reloading it into boxer primed brass.

The funny thing was when I test fired them. Through a long-barreled Turk Mauser rifle, unaltered ammo velocity was 2900fps. I only clocked a couple rounds. I then clocked 4 rounds with the decreased charge in boxer brass- 2850 to 2900 fps. That seemed really weird to me. I'm guessing it has something to do with the variances in the boxer brass and primers. I expected a 3gr decrease to lower the velocity more than that.

Before I shoot them through my FN49, I'll have to do more loading, and lower them more than that.
 

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I just pulled some 1950 Turk ammo down and decreased the powder charge. The factory charge was 48 grains, and I decreased it to 45 grains, reloading it into boxer primed brass.

The funny thing was when I test fired them. Through a long-barreled Turk Mauser rifle, unaltered ammo velocity was 2900fps. I only clocked a couple rounds. I then clocked 4 rounds with the decreased charge in boxer brass- 2850 to 2900 fps. That seemed really weird to me. I'm guessing it has something to do with the variances in the boxer brass and primers. I expected a 3gr decrease to lower the velocity more than that.

Before I shoot them through my FN49, I'll have to do more loading, and lower them more than that.
Difference in case internal capacity and primer. You made 2 changes so not same-same at all.
 

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Yes, I understand. I was just expecting a bit more of a difference. I would never swap bullet and powder over into new cases without decreasing and checking the load first, and this illustrates that. It looks to me that putting the full charge into fresh boxer cases could have been quite dangerous.
 

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I just pulled some 1950 Turk ammo down and decreased the powder charge. The factory charge was 48 grains, and I decreased it to 45 grains, reloading it into boxer primed brass.

The funny thing was when I test fired them. Through a long-barreled Turk Mauser rifle, unaltered ammo velocity was 2900fps. I only clocked a couple rounds. I then clocked 4 rounds with the decreased charge in boxer brass- 2850 to 2900 fps. That seemed really weird to me. I'm guessing it has something to do with the variances in the boxer brass and primers. I expected a 3gr decrease to lower the velocity more than that.

Before I shoot them through my FN49, I'll have to do more loading, and lower them more than that.
If you are smart, you will decide to NOT put them through your FN49.

Even if you get what you see as 'normal' muzzle velocities out of your Turk (or a FN49) with this ammunition, the very slow-burning powder will STILL give you a gas port pressure that are going to be significantly higher than the 'medium' burning rate powders that the rifles were designed to be used with.

Higher gas port pressures provide more gas and energy to the gas system, which in turn drives the moving parts with significantly more force than the parts were designed for. Continued abuse of this type will end up providing you with an unwanted supply of broken parts.

Yes, the ability to meter the quantity of gas entering the gas system should be able IN THEORY to moderate the amount of force operating the rifle, but I figure it is false economy to risk breaking a $1000++ rifle to save maybe ten cents per round on the ammunition put through it.

Just don't ask me why my G43 is no longer all-matching when I put the parts in it that allow me to shoot it (I have to remove one part that has been rewelded).
 

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You make a good point: chamber pressure is less relevant than port pressure, in these guns.

At one time I had an over abundance of old surplus 4831. I carefully worked up a load for my M1 Garand. Yes, I know, that’s a big no-no, but I did it by port pressure and ejection pattern, and it was a light load. Velocity (and chamber pressure) were low, but port pressure and ejection patterns were right. I didn’t use that load long though, because I didn’t like it. I went back to full loads with tried and true 4895.

If I find a load I like and decide to use in the FN49, I’ll be smart about it.
 

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I did some more tinkering and came up with a load that works very nicely in the FN49. I dialed it back to a velocity of around 2700 fps in the shorter barrel. They function nicely, eject not too far, and the brass looks like it was fired in a bolt action. Accuracy is nothing to brag about, but it is old surplus.
 

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I really dont understand the economics..... When Turk was under $5 per 70 rounds that was fine.... With ammo prices today you can get NON corrosive and FRESH PPU for not much more and NOT blow up your firearm or cause severe damage.... Just my 2 cents.....
 

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I really dont understand the economics..... When Turk was under $5 per 70 rounds that was fine.... With ammo prices today you can get NON corrosive and FRESH PPU for not much more and NOT blow up your firearm or cause severe damage.... Just my 2 cents.....
If you happen to have 10K of .03 turk maybe? I hear If you shoot unaltered Turk in a mag fed semi auto its best to keep hands and feet away from the mag bottom. Many accidents report the mag and ammo being blown out.
 
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