[Ronbo6]

The first thing I did when I bought my first TT33 (it is gone now, and I am now on my second TT33, both were non-safety pre-68 imports) was to get a spare hammer/sear pack for it (everything that comes out of the frame once you get the slide off).

That way, I figure I was going to be covered for just about ANYTHING that might have gone wrong with the pistol, and something actually did.

The return spring on the front of the hammer group broke, and with the extra 'hammer pack', I was STILL in business with that pistol.

I have since replaced the return spring with a piece of backing spring that I took out of one of the 8 round chargers that Czech 7.62X25 came on. It fits and works PERFECTLY as a replacement, and I STILL have a 100% spare hammer assembly. I also still have enough left of that backing spring to make one or two more replacement springs if the one in my gun breaks again (which doesn't seem likely).

If I were you, I would see about getting a spare assembly, and working on your original at your leisure. If you ever decide to sell the gun, you will surely get more for the spare assembly (they are pretty sought-after) when you sell it than you paid for it.

 

[Ronbo6]

The firing pin hit was quite deep and oddly left a drag mark on the back of the case that I can't recall seeing before on a TT-33.

If you are talking about a 'teardrop shaped' firing pin impression in the primers, that is because, just like the 1911, the TT33 does NOT have an inertia firing pin.

The hammer holds the firing pin against the primer and the drag mark is likely from the barrel swinging down on its link as the pistol opens up before the hammer gets forced back from the firing pin.

I get those all the time on my .45 brass fired in 1911's. I never really looked for it on my 'fire and forget' 7.62X25 brass, though.