[Roamergrg]

Good Evening,

I have a number of TT-33's, but I picked up a Romanian the other day, cleaned it, and got it to the range this weekend. While it functioned fine, the trigger pull was quite possibly the worst I've experienced on any handgun. I would say it's similar to a Polish P-64 with DA pull.

I disassembled the trigger group and the hammer had a distinctive burr on it. It also seems that the sear and hammer have worn together on a slight angle. Using the finest file I could procure and a stone, I removed the burr and just polished the surfaces a bit. It hasn't helped much. The trigger pull still really sucks.


Now, I wonder what my options are? I see other trigger groups online for $60 or so + shipping, or the hammer and sear for maybe $40 total. If buying a used hammer and sear, I might end up in a similar (or worse) situation. Who knows if the parts would come from different guns and have worn differently.

So, next, I guess I could find a gunsmith... seems a bit silly to spend a lot to clean up the pull on a gun that was $220 - $230 with shipping or so.... but otherwise it has to get early retirement.

Thoughts?

 

[RusskieSniper]

I'd break it in a bit if I were you, I did the same thing with mine, now the trigger is really smooth, almost identical to a 10/22

 

[Ronbo6]

The first thing I did when I bought my first TT33 (it is gone now, and I am now on my second TT33, both were non-safety pre-68 imports) was to get a spare hammer/sear pack for it (everything that comes out of the frame once you get the slide off).

That way, I figure I was going to be covered for just about ANYTHING that might have gone wrong with the pistol, and something actually did.

The return spring on the front of the hammer group broke, and with the extra 'hammer pack', I was STILL in business with that pistol.

I have since replaced the return spring with a piece of backing spring that I took out of one of the 8 round chargers that Czech 7.62X25 came on. It fits and works PERFECTLY as a replacement, and I STILL have a 100% spare hammer assembly. I also still have enough left of that backing spring to make one or two more replacement springs if the one in my gun breaks again (which doesn't seem likely).

If I were you, I would see about getting a spare assembly, and working on your original at your leisure. If you ever decide to sell the gun, you will surely get more for the spare assembly (they are pretty sought-after) when you sell it than you paid for it.

 

[mike radford]

I have two of the Romainian pistols and no weird trigger or any problems with them. I have shot them at 100 yds and been on a man size target pretty often. Of course I have used an M1911 and hit paper at 100 yds over half the time but the KY windage is much less with the TTs.

 

[Roamergrg]

I wonder how it might work if I put some lapping compound on the friction points and cocked/ uncocked it a couple hundred times?

I notice that the hammer spring seems particularly strong. The cases that were fired had a slightly odd look to them, maybe I can take a photo of one tonight. The firing pin hit was quite deep and oddly left a drag mark on the back of the case that I can't recall seeing before on a TT-33.

 

[Ronbo6]

The firing pin hit was quite deep and oddly left a drag mark on the back of the case that I can't recall seeing before on a TT-33.

If you are talking about a 'teardrop shaped' firing pin impression in the primers, that is because, just like the 1911, the TT33 does NOT have an inertia firing pin.

The hammer holds the firing pin against the primer and the drag mark is likely from the barrel swinging down on its link as the pistol opens up before the hammer gets forced back from the firing pin.

I get those all the time on my .45 brass fired in 1911's. I never really looked for it on my 'fire and forget' 7.62X25 brass, though.