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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Went to the range today and took my Swedish CG-63. A friend bought one last week. So we shot a few rounds with each other.

The target below is mine from this morning. Best target that I shot once I got the proper apertures for the bullseye we were using. it was fired from the bench as our range is not really equipped for position shooting. The rounds were handloads and the info is on the target. The action is a Carl Gustav Model 1896 and manufactured in 1902 and rebarreled in 1966. Two old guys shooting pretty fair. I sometimes wonder what it would do with a scope on it.
3794578
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I am sorry if I gave the impression that this was my friends rifle. This was my rifle, and another friend and I had worked up this load for it. We found a commercial loading that worked fairly well. Then we tried to duplicate it and went from there with about a dozen different loadings until we found this one.
 

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I think I've seen this somewhere else. Them old Swedish diopters work, who needs a scope? Pictures of the rifle?

Good shooting Marine!!!
 
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very nice selected 3 shot group, but the real standard to evaluate repeatable accuracy is to sit down and shoot 3,10-shot groups with no exclusion except if you call the shot out. But you have to call them out before you look at the shot, and if you called it out and it is still in, you exclude it.

Not trying to be naysayer, but selected 3 shot groups are not good indicators of repeatable grouping ability.

a very easy way to shoot well once you have fading adjustment ability in your eyes (bifocal time) is the following:

Go to to your optometrist and get your 6.67 (20 feet) adjustment. This is the point of focus at infinity, with no effort by yoru aiming eye.

Now add positive spherical adjustment, which brings your focus back from from infinity. 1/2 diopter moves your focus point to 2 meters. If you are shooing a match rifle with a 28 inch barrel, 6 inch action and your face is 3 inches behind the receiver sight, you are about 37 inches behind the front sight aperture, which is around 1 M. So this is a good place to start and most focus find that value works pretty well for traditional match rifles. as the barrel shortens, so older shooters need a tad bit more, so .675 positive diopter, and some of us like + 0.75 Diopter when shooting pistols, NRA bullseye style.

Now of course the clarify of the target will be less clear now. This is approached in two ways:

1) accept that, if you use a ring front aperture your really do not need a clear bull, if you use a large enough aperture.
2) reduce the size of the rear aperture, this increases the depth of field, that is range at which an object is in clear focus.
3) the equation for this exists, but is less useful, at least to the chaps I know. A good starting value is 1.1 mm or .46 inch. this will generally allow the shooter to see both the front post and target with sufficient clarity to execute a good shot release.

as a general rule the smaller the rear aperture the larger the depth of field, but at the cost of less light, which affects target clarity and the time it takes before you have a retinal degradation in image, which an older brain will not recognize. So the price you pay for all this is you need to shoot fast. not staring for 8-10 seconds at the target before executing the trigger pull. need to make it 2.5~3.5 seconds. if you do not execute the release in that time, do not break position, but simply move your focus way look to the left and let you eye rest on a distant target, then look back and if the sight picture in good, break the shot.

I have seen guys in their late 70s who shoot well with this technique. Granted few of them used post sights, but front ring sights. Posts adds a entire other set of limitations.
 

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"EyePal" is an applique vinyl aperture that self adheres to your glasses. It uses the pinhole "camera obscura" principle to bring distant objects into focus. I use one for shooting tangent sights, but find it unsuitable for a receiver mounted peep sight.

To add to "Fritz's" shooting glasses recommendation, I have my optometrist make up the right lens with the focal center of the correction positioned in the top left corner of the lens. This is the area I look through when aiming. Since I also have correction for astigmatism, this lens configuration puts the full correction in direct line of sight too.
 

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I've loaded up a couple hundred rounds.
Nosler 123gr. Custom Competition with new Lapua brass, and 120gr. PPU HPBT with new PPU brass.
I'm going to take out my CG63, CG80 and M/69 6.5x55 target rifles, but I think I'll wait a little bit 'till the weather breaks....
3796308
 

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NW swede,

Yeah the way they introduced scopes s they made SR a limited class and the scores shot up. Club scores are now in the mid 490s. Unfortunately the cost tripled to get there. Nothing to do with service rife shooting anymore. Which is why the sport is dying. We have younger shooters in our military vintage matched than in the supposed SR events.

Doom.
 

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