[Billofthenorth3]

Ok, getting ready to replace the corroded barrel on a Yugo M48, I have a used replacement barrel, action wrench with appropriate large ring mauser piece, headspace gauges, rosin, brass shims, a couple of gunsmithing books including Jerry Kuhnhausen's and a barrel vise, the kind with the oak inserts. I don't have a lot of confidence in the barrel vise based on an attempt a few years back to remove an Enfield barrel but as they have a reputation for being tough to remove I'm hoping this one might go better.

Any tips to help me get it right this time before I start, stuff that might not be in the books?

Yeah I know, take it to a gunsmith but that takes out the 'do-it-yourself' from doing it yourself. Plan "B" we'll call that.

 

[mgpellet0815]

As you are probably aware, '98 actions have two bearing surfaces to the barrel, on the barrel shouder to the receiver and then again on the barrel face to the receiver making them rather difficult, but not impossible to remove. Apply plenty of penatrant, such as Break Free , Kroil etc... liberally over the course of a week or so. Tapping the receiver ring with a brass mallet is supposed to help the penatrant work it's wat in. Make sure that the barrel is clean and dry before mounting in blocks.You can add a little heat to the receiver ring to warm it up some....hot to the touch....and give it a go. You may want to have an extension pipe handy to put over then handle of the receiver wrench for a little more leverage.
If the barrel is junk then you can always try making a refief cut around the barrel shoulder to relieve some of the pressure on the reciever face or you can always mill, cut or file a couple of flats on the barrel itself in order to chuck it in a big, sturdy vice.
I've rebarreled a couple dozen Mausers and Springfields over the years and have had some that come off easily while others are pretty stubborn. Garands and M14's are a lot easier.
Good Luck and Keep Us Posted.
Mark

 

[Billofthenorth3]

I'm the kind of guy that can usually do things but this is ridiculous, screw it, on to Plan "B' I think, you spend $150 -200 on specialty tools and it doesn't budge an inch, screw old world european crapsmanship. You can just about rebuild a 70 year old jeep with common hand tools but try turning a rifle barrel forget it.

I have had kroil on it for 6 months, tried the barrel vise with no success so switched to a pipe wrench in a vise and a sledge hammer, the old barrel is no good anyway, still nothing.

I'll give the gunsmith a call next week and see what he wants or maybe I'll just pick up a stripped receiver at a gun show.

 

[Billofthenorth3]

By the way, thanks for the reply mgpellet, I'm just frustrated and venting.

 

[spider65]

some times I have to just walk away for a few hours till my tempature comes down an try it again, do you have a couple of friends that could come over an have a go of it with you,it makes a differance, Lyle

 

[Hawkins]

You have to certain that the barrel is not turning. Then rap the receiver wrench with a good sise hammer.
Shock is the idea.

 

[Billofthenorth3]

You have to certain that the barrel is not turning. Then rap the receiver wrench with a good sise hammer.
Shock is the idea.

That was the problem with the barrel vise, it kept turning and the pipe wrench had too much slack and movement.

 

[shepard5348]

I use an air impact to tighten my vise and you can carefully use a propane torch to heat the receiver some. Heat it just enough that you have a hard time touching it, please us common sense.

 

[Billofthenorth3]

I use an air impact to tighten my vise and you can carefully use a propane torch to heat the receiver some. Heat it just enough that you have a hard time touching it, please us common sense.

I forgot that I have one of those....impact wrench....good idea, if I can find a socket big enough. I think the wooden blocks are the weak link though, wonder if I could find aluminum ones.

 

[Hawkins]

You can epoxy the wood blocks to the barrel and remove then later (for real tough cases).

 

[falm16]

would freezing the barrel help?

 

[BC1]

Freezing the barrel, that is what I was thinking as well. That would shrink the barrel slightly enough to help remove it. I think you would have to freeze the barrel and action together though, then apply a little heat to the receiver when you take it out of the freezer and quickly give the receiver a quick twist with a dead-blow hammer.

 

[Clyde]

Use dry ice to cool the barrel. And file a cople of flats on the barrel (since it is junk) and crank the vice down on thoe flats. A little sheet lead on the jaws to conform things to the flats for sure and tight will sometimes be useful.

Can use a heat gun to get the action hot but not too hot, and then dribble some penetrating oil while rapping the barrel or the action sharply but not all that hard with a brass hammer or rawhide mallet. And the suggestion for relief cuts in the barrel close to the action face is another one that will sometimes help.

 

[irishsteve]

Have to second the relief cut idea.Use a dremel with a cut off wheel,and cut down 3/16" or so.Leave just a knife blade of thickness in front of the reciever.It releases the torque.Never had a barrel I couldnt get off once the cut is made.Some turn off by hand it helps so much.

 

[shepard5348]

I forgot that I have one of those....impact wrench....good idea, if I can find a socket big enough. I think the wooden blocks are the weak link though, wonder if I could find aluminum ones.

You can get an all metal barrel vise on ebay. Look for a seller called wallycooper. He sells all types of barrel vises. I have a hard time with the Mosins, I can't see how wood could hold the load.

 

[Billofthenorth3]

THANKS FOR ALL THE REPLIES, I think I will try the relief cut, the cold and some kind of metal barrel vise. I gotta believe those wooden ones only work on recent modern made rifle barrels.

 

[jjk308 In Memoriam RIP]

As you are probably aware, '98 actions have two bearing surfaces to the barrel, on the barrel shouder to the receiver and then again on the barrel face to the receiver making them rather difficult, but not impossible to remove. Apply plenty of penatrant, such as Break Free , Kroil etc... liberally over the course of a week or so. Mark

Ditto on all the rest. Add 1/3 acetone to the penetrating oil, cover with aluminum foil so it doesn't evaporate too fast. Soaks in a lot better and breaks anything loose a lot better than straight penetrant.

Ditto on the rest. And use the extension pipe right from the start. You WILL need it.

 

[Gunsisme]

Since the barrel is toast anyway. LOCK it down in your vise. My action wrench is a U bolt of proper width to clear the action and a piece of 1" SQUARE STOCK 3 FEET LONG. Drill the 1' square stock for the U bolt. Tighten the U bolt on the action and use a soft or dead blow hammer on the end. Knock the living crap out of the action wrench with the hammer. Measure the old barrel face to shoulder. You want this same dimension on your new barrel if your headspace was correct on the old barrel? You can also measure fron the front of the receiver to the shoulder and check to see if this matches the barrel. If you want to know actual dimension of your headspace remove the firing pin and use shims on the bolt face and a live factory new round. Remove the firing pin! Add spacers or shims until the bolt is hard to close. Now measure the shims. On a military rifle any thing less than .010 is acceptable. Sporting rifle .006. Bench rest .001-.002. Also Be sure you remove the firing pin!

 

[mgpellet0815]

I've never been a fan of wooden blocks, especially on military actions as I could never seem to get them to work with out breaking or crushing them. Maybe I was using the wrong kind of wood or the grain wasn't right. I make my own aluminum blocks.
I have a heavy vice I picked up at a local Harbor Freight years ago that serves quite nice. I'm sure that buying a vice on line would have rather high shipping.
Keep us posted and snap some photos if possible.
Good Luck,
Mark

 

[dirtyjim]

If the barrel is toast I don't even bother with the barrel vise I use a 3' pipe wrench with a cheater pipe on the barrel & put the action wrench in my bench vise.