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Discussion Starter #1
...but what is this screw here for...it doesn't seem to have a practical purpose to me but then who am I to question a rifle designer that made the greatest bolt action rifle of all time...but still what is it for besides plugging the hole that is there?
 

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It is the ejector screw.

Without it the empty cartridge would not eject.

Take it out and try cycling a round.

Screw it in too tight and your bolt will not operate correctly.

Too loose and the brass will not kick out.

Clever those designers, weren't they?
 

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666 you just missed a perfect opportunity to take the piss ,you should have said that if the screw is loose the barrel will fall off :D.
 

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Aw c'mon....

Dr Beer...you wouldnt really take the piss out of a Texan would ya??????

'cause one of 'em has my AR15 in safekeeping...hope he hasnt worn it out... :)
 

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Ejector Screw

The following is from British Manual:

Précis No. SA/Rifles/2 (Dated March 1960)

EXTRACTION AND EJECTION

16. On raising the bolt lever, the bolt is rotated to the left, forcing the stud of the cocking piece from the long to the short cam groove and withdrawing the striker about 1/8 in. At the same time, the lug of the bolt moving in the inclined slot of the body causes the bolt to be withdrawn about 1/8 in, the claw of the extractor gripping the rim of the fired cartridge case effects primary extraction or the first loosening of the case in the chamber.

17. As the bolt is drawn to the rear, the extractor withdraws the cartridge case from the chamber and carries it to the rear. The case is ejected from the body of the rifle by its rim bearing against the ejector groove on the left side of the body. When unloading a live cartridge, because of its length, ejection is affected by the rim of the case striking the ejector screw.

18. As the bolt reaches its rearmost position, the compressed magazine spring positions the next cartridge ready to engage the bolt face on the next forward movement of the bolt.

The photo below is from the 1991 Canadian manual.




Enfield manuals are available in my manual sticky at the top of the page.

1945 Australian parts manual, Enfield rifle No.1, No.3, No.4

http://home.comcast.net/~ehorton/Enfield_parts_list.pdf


No.4 manuals.

http://www.euroarms.net/EFD/manuali/No4Mk1Inst.pdf

http://www.euroarms.net/EFD/manuali/No4Mk1Arm.pdf
 

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Mythbusters









I replace the ejector spring on all my shooter Enfield’s, the spring spends its entire life under load with the bolt closed. Weak ejection and bolt jump can be caused by a weak extractor spring, also when you pull the trigger the extractor spring is holding the bolt in position or pushing the bolt locking lugs into the receiver lug recesses.

A strong extractor spring is your best friend, a weak spring accelerates wear between the bolt body and bolt head.

RTFM
 

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I discoverd that when using no D&T mounts on #4 type rifles, that use the ejector screw for the front mounting with a longer replacement screw, B square etc. If the replacement screw was not screwed in exactly to the right length of protrusion into the receiver. The empty cartridge would not eject. Adjusting the screw fixed the problem.
All rifles had new extractor springs.

It is possible this was a fluke on my rifles, but I would be curious to hear about real world testing done by others at the range.

Remove the ejector screw and see if it alters the ejection.

I can see where an empty cartridge ejects before reaching the ejector screw.

It is possible the extractor springs from Numrich were not new, like the ones from SS.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Well it is good to know not to mess with it too much. Thanks.
 

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Ejector Screw

You learn something new everyday... I have a No.4 without an ejector screw and had to go try it with a couple of spent cases. It ejected the case just fine. I have owned Lee Enfields for years and never knew that the ejector screw was for ejecting loaded rounds only.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Yeah, orginally I thought it might have been a "extra" hole for mounting a scope or something, I had no idea that it even came in contact with the bolt, but if I have a problem when I finally get a chance to get it out to the range at least I will know what is going on...anything else I can handle but that was a new one on me.
 

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I have a problem... I too thought this hole was just a mounting point and thought nothing of it. My action came without this screw and the previous owner seems to have ruined some of the threads... What to do now?
 

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I have a problem... I too thought this hole was just a mounting point and thought nothing of it. My action came without this screw and the previous owner seems to have ruined some of the threads... What to do now?
Retap the threads and clean them up, below is where to get the British type taps and dies.

Screw, ejector = 3BA (Number three BA (British Association) Thread type)
http://www.britishfasteners.com/threads/index.html

http://www.britishfasteners.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=BTF&Product_Code=4395&Category_Code=250
 

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Retap the threads and clean them up, below is where to get the British type taps and dies.

Screw, ejector = 3BA (Number three BA (British Association) Thread type)
http://www.britishfasteners.com/threads/index.html

http://www.britishfasteners.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=BTF&Product_Code=4395&Category_Code=250
Thanks for your help in a few of my post Edward. I ordered the 3BA Tap and two of the British Fasteners 3BA Cheesehead screws in 1/2 inch to cut down to size. I already eBayed an original ejector screw to use but got spares in case I have problems. I also ordered new Extractor and Firing Pin springs from Midway and a bolt tool (from gunbroker) to make this a completely refurbished gun. Thanks Again
 

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Thanks for your help in a few of my post Edward. I ordered the 3BA Tap and two of the British Fasteners 3BA Cheesehead screws in 1/2 inch to cut down to size. I already eBayed an original ejector screw to use but got spares in case I have problems. I also ordered new Extractor and Firing Pin springs from Midway and a bolt tool (from gunbroker) to make this a completely refurbished gun. Thanks Again
Paperkiller

Just remember you can always trust me I was in the Air Force, just watch out for those low life Marines in our forum they will steal you blind and blame it on the Navy.
 

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Following up on this.
I've discovered that both the "Cad technik" & "b-square" scope mounts do NOT have the correct screw thread for the ejector screw.
The supplied hex bolts are very close, but not dead on. This may be what's causing the thread damage as the one I got with a used Cad-Technik had damaged threads. They will screw in with oil & force, but not properly. That's probably why LocTite is recommended.

Fortunately the screws seem to be a softer metal than the reciever sidewall, so the damage is confined to the screw itself.
I'm currently awaiting a #3 BA bolt that I ordered to complete my mounting.
 

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I think you're right.
I'm planning on using a 4mm to replace the cross pin on the rear sight.
The diameters are so close that all I have do do is polish of 0.005" for a snug fit in the existing holes.
The difference here is that I'll be using a metric nut & loc tite instead of burgering up the threads as a locking device!;)
 
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