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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
First of all I have to say sorry for my English and possible mistakes.
Not so long ago I bought second M39 from well known seller (PB). Really, it was exchange – second one I got came with pitted barrel and heavy copper fouling in spite of that it was advertised on that website “…with new barrel..” (First M39 I got was as advertised: “… unissued with arsenal tag”). So I called seller and sent it back for exchange (it’s not cheap gun - 460.00 +S&H) for the gun I already choose. And it wasn’t end of story. Couple days later I got a call from PB stating that gun came back to them with cracked stock …. To make the story short I agreed to get barreled action and cracked stock. I got 1942 “B” barrel on Remington action with Westinghouse bolt body.
And week later I got missing parts like hand guard, butt plate, cleaning rod, screws and ….. no shims. From the first look on the stock (and reading some articles on this forum) I got suspected that the stock was switched for some reason. Cracked stocks like that one I got very probably getting cracked from shooting with loosen lug screw … Any way, I repaired the stock, made new shims and begun assembly. I got some proof that stock was switched – no one whole from the metal “furniture” was aligned with stock’s holes. I had to put oak plugs into old holes and drill new ones (even for the cleaning rod!). Lug screw was tighten to the limit and aligned with dot on the mag, front end cap and bands was tighten all way down. And I put some oil saturated cotton webbing on the barrel where is the end cap and upper hand guard joins to prevent barrel shifting. Tongue screw was tighten to the limit and unscrewed half turn out.
And after couple weeks of elbow grease I got this:





Now it’s time to shoot! Surplus ammo shoots like this:


After that I was curios about trying .308 bullets which friend of mine provided:



Then I got some 150 gr Sierra GK with different powders:



And same loads but with magnum primers:





Now more targets with 165 gr Sierra GK:





I have to reject W748 (hangfire and inconsistency) and H4895 (very consistent speed but I'm short with) and will stay with Varget and IMR4895 which this rifle likes much more. Next couple weekends I will try that gun on 200 y range (12" square targets - front site width at that distance equal width of that target).
I shoot from heavy bench rest with irons that's why most targets was set at 50 y (old eyes) and speed checked 10 f from muzzle.
I read on this forum that shooting a little bit undersized bullets could increase throat erosion? Probably.
Share you opinions, please.
P.S I'd like to put repro PU or PE scope on this rifle. Anybody can say anything about quality of these repros like holding zero, lenses clarity ...? Thanks beforehand.
 

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Be very interested to hear what happens at 200. I have not heard the throat erosion theory before. Some Finn rifles have very tight bores and .308 may not be too much out of line. Did you slug the bore? Your observations regarding Hodgon 4895 and IMR 4895 are interesting also. The workmanship on the stock is wonderful. I would be careful about discussions related to drilling and tapping and mounting scopes. Lots of folks get worked up about that practice.
 

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Peep sights are available if you are having trouble seeing the sights and the targets at the same time. That would keep you from having to scope the rifle and ruin its collectability. Also it is possible to get a no-drill scope mount and then use a long or extended eye relief scope. Again to keep from ruining your rifle for future generations. Frankly it looks like you are still getting good enough accuracy without having to go to the drastic step of drilling and tapping your M39 anyway.


When I got my first Mosins, I considered at least an aperture sight to be a must for really accurate shooting. I even have a ghost ring sight on my '94 Winchester. Now that I have gotten used to the sights on my Mosins (including the M39s) I don't feel the need for any alterations at all. I'm in my late 50s and had the same problems seeing sights and targets that you describe above. One can train the eyes to work better. I did. And after a few months I am regularly hitting targets at a mile. I still need to use reading glasses just to be able to see this script as I type though.

Interesting post and a great range report.

Doby

PS - Here is a review from a guy I trust on the repro Russian sniper scopes. Fail. I would stay away from them.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WouR66G3-gE
 

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Welcome. VL very nice detail study.

Good vision there. What makes you think it's .308 have you measured your bore size. What I see and looks, your bore likes the surplus 150g and reload sierra Game king 150. If you like to get tighter (at this point is perfect) you really need to find your ogive number. BTW how did you determine your shims. did you order them, or came with the old stock.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Be very interested to hear what happens at 200. I have not heard the throat erosion theory before. Some Finn rifles have very tight bores and .308 may not be too much out of line. Did you slug the bore? Your observations regarding Hodgon 4895 and IMR 4895 are interesting also. The workmanship on the stock is wonderful. I would be careful about discussions related to drilling and tapping and mounting scopes. Lots of folks get worked up about that practice.
Didn't shoot yet but definitely will. And I didn't slug the bore - I did chamber casting + ~1" of rifling. According to my caliper the bore dia 0.300/0311.
Thank you for the good words about my carpenter's skills - I am.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Peep sights are available if you are having trouble seeing the sights and the targets at the same time. That would keep you from having to scope the rifle and ruin its collectability. Also it is possible to get a no-drill scope mount and then use a long or extended eye relief scope. Again to keep from ruining your rifle for future generations. Frankly it looks like you are still getting good enough accuracy without having to go to the drastic step of drilling and tapping your M39 anyway.
I got more luck with standard irons - got aperture sights on my AR-15/Sig 522 and I shoot better with standards. Tried LER scope on my MN 91/30 - doesn't hold zero (of course it wasn't Ziess, Swarowsky or Leopold). And I finished with PE scope mount


And later I had to cut ~ 2" of the barrel because it was badly pitted and worn out ( wrong cleaning). And of course it was re-crowned. AK hand grip - because wrist issue (got it broken some time ago). Bent bolt made by myself cut out the ball, drilling/threading both bolt body and ball, 1/4" bolt from Home Depot. I decided to "bubba" that rifle because it was so rusted inside out (some places 1/16 deep) and I tried to get this rifle second chance to be shooter again.
And I want to put PEM scope (definitely not PU - too many of them around) like this:

And this pic was borrowed from MN.net
 

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So you are planning to install (drill, tap, and carve the stock) a PEM on a Finn M-39?

Then why not just get a re-furb 91-30 and do that to it? My $150 refurb Tula ex-sniper is more accurate than any of my M-39s anyway. IF I were going to do that to a Mosin, it would not be an M-39. But it's your rifle to do with as you please. You are new to this site, I see. You are going to get about zero support here for chopping stocks and screwing in pistol grips on them. That is not what this site is for. There are others that might condone it, but not this one. A Finn M-39 that you have so carefully and unavoidably had to be repaired doesn't really deserve that treatment (drill, tap, carve).
 

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So you are planning to install (drill, tap, and carve the stock) a PEM on a Finn M-39?

Then why not just get a re-furb 91-30 and do that to it? My $150 refurb Tula ex-sniper is more accurate than any of my M-39s anyway. IF I were going to do that to a Mosin, it would not be an M-39. But it's your rifle to do with as you please. You are new to this site, I see. You are going to get about zero support here for chopping stocks and screwing in pistol grips on them. That is not what this site is for. There are others that might condone it, but not this one. A Finn M-39 that you have so carefully and unavoidably had to be repaired doesn't really deserve that treatment (drill, tap, carve).

Well said.. please put the drill and hack saw down and walk away from the m39. 100,000 thats it... 100,000.

I would never advocate making something it never was.. but if it was between a m39 and a 100$ 91/30.. let it be the 91/30... from the looks of it you already been there and done that to the 91/30..
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Welcome. VL very nice detail study.

Good vision there. What makes you think it's .308 have you measured your bore size. What I see and looks, your bore likes the surplus 150g and reload sierra Game king 150. If you like to get tighter (at this point is perfect) you really need to find your ogive number. BTW how did you determine your shims. did you order them, or came with the old stock.
It was blind shot. Friend of mine gave me some .308 Nosler 168 gr HP and I tried. Did good and got interested in trying bullets I could put my hands on - they were Sierra's 150 & 165 SP grainers. Another point of interest that 0.3105 cal bullets are very limited by choice and I don't want to shoot surplus to keep my barrel's life longer (BTW I shoot PPU 150 gr SP from this Finn and no luck: 3'' at 50 y, but my "Black Widow" (see pics) loves them - can shoot soda cans at 200 y all day long (have to say I put Timney trigger - amazing improvements). And .308 bullets available in much more choices then other suitable for MN's. All this pure luck.
About shims - I didn't get them with stock, made them myself from 0.020" thick sheet brass I found in my garage. Put 1 under the tongue and 3 under the recoil lug. And 3 shims under recoil lug were determined by trials. Using fresh enough 1 dollar bill under the barrel of assembled rifle and try to drag it all away to the end of stock - 3 were good to get free floating barrel. And can you tell me more details about finding "ogive number"?
 

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At this point this thread should be reported. I am done with it. The OP claims he put a pistol grip on a 91-30 because of an injury. That makes no sense or he would do that to all his shooter Mosins and he probably will.

I am unsubscribing from this thread.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
At this point this thread should be reported. I am done with it. The OP claims he put a pistol grip on a 91-30 because of an injury. That makes no sense or he would do that to all his shooter Mosins and he probably will.

I am unsubscribing from this thread.
Don't be so sure!
"Freedom comes with responsibility!"
 

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View attachment 776580 When I saw this I was pretty sure.


When I saw this I was certain.
View attachment 776581

An AK pistol grip goes on an...AK.
Is it called a black widow because its black with a back ak handle?

Threads like this have no use or value for the survey section.. its meant to survey original rifles. This thread should be in the workbench where it belongs.

Just my 02 cents.
 
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