SVT stuck bolt
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Joined
·
120 Posts
Silly question perhaps, but what kind of ammo are you using?
Are the cases laquered?
Are the cases laquered?
Check the Chamber
I once had one of these that had an out of round chamber. The round would have to be forced out by a few whacks of the hand. My gunsmith looked at it and determined an out of spec chamber. He said the only thing that could be done was to replace the barrel.
Check the chamber and be sure it's super clean. Inspect the case and see if it has marks where the chamber is grabbing. If you have to beat the round out it's not likely a gas setting that's causing it. Try some brass cased ammo in it also.
I once had one of these that had an out of round chamber. The round would have to be forced out by a few whacks of the hand. My gunsmith looked at it and determined an out of spec chamber. He said the only thing that could be done was to replace the barrel.
Joined
·
438 Posts
+1 with trainsktg
Yeah, I concur about the possibility of a rough chamber. I've had the same thing happen with other C&R semi's. Some extra extra fine steel wool took care of it.
Joined
·
11,799 Posts
But the SVT has a fluted chamber, right? (or is it just the area around the neck that's fluted?)
Mark, is there any pitting in the chamber? I had an FN49 that would do the same thing, and it turned out there was a big area of pitting that allowed the brass to swell just a bit and get a nice firm grip on the chamber. Had to hammer it open after each shot, as well.
Mark, is there any pitting in the chamber? I had an FN49 that would do the same thing, and it turned out there was a big area of pitting that allowed the brass to swell just a bit and get a nice firm grip on the chamber. Had to hammer it open after each shot, as well.
Joined
·
786 Posts
The SVT40 DOES have a fluted chamber but the flutes are only cut at the neck (front) of the chamber and stop unlike the CETME where the flutes are cut the full length of the chamber and clearly visible. When you fire the SVT rifle, the flutes MUST be clean so that they allow some of the gas to "float" the spent cartridge out. If those flutes are not clean, then the rifle is relying on the extractor claw, alone, to pull out the spent cartridge while it's probably wedged in there pretty good.
It's tough to see the flutes but if you look hard with a good light you can see them clearly cut into the front of the chamber as it heads into the neck. You can't see them from the muzzle end. And, you should definitely see "flute marks" on the brass/steel when it comes out. Examine a spent brass and If you don't see them, that's a good sign you've got impacted flutes that need cleaning.
Adding gas may help but there's a good chance you could damage the extractor claw more than likely.
First, clean the chamber and check for burrs. Second get a big brass brush in there and scrub forward and backward with some good bore cleaner. I use a small shotgun brass brush, myself, and work from the receiver end. Just keep rubbing in and out keeping the brush soaked with cleaner. If it's hard and impacted you may want to try some foam cleaner and let it soak there for a bit and then go at it again. Once you clean it, you'll find the rifle runs a lot smoother and the brass will have those telltale black soot marks from the flutes clearly on them after firing. Lacquer from Soviet steel cartridges may also be clogging them.
Until I checked all that out, I wouldn't shoot it again. Good luck!
Rome
It's tough to see the flutes but if you look hard with a good light you can see them clearly cut into the front of the chamber as it heads into the neck. You can't see them from the muzzle end. And, you should definitely see "flute marks" on the brass/steel when it comes out. Examine a spent brass and If you don't see them, that's a good sign you've got impacted flutes that need cleaning.
Adding gas may help but there's a good chance you could damage the extractor claw more than likely.
First, clean the chamber and check for burrs. Second get a big brass brush in there and scrub forward and backward with some good bore cleaner. I use a small shotgun brass brush, myself, and work from the receiver end. Just keep rubbing in and out keeping the brush soaked with cleaner. If it's hard and impacted you may want to try some foam cleaner and let it soak there for a bit and then go at it again. Once you clean it, you'll find the rifle runs a lot smoother and the brass will have those telltale black soot marks from the flutes clearly on them after firing. Lacquer from Soviet steel cartridges may also be clogging them.
Until I checked all that out, I wouldn't shoot it again. Good luck!
Rome
What kind of diet has it been fed in the past?
The poly/lacquer coated 70's-80's cases leave a deposit in the chamber roughly akin to hot glue when it builds up and gets warm.
Thorough cleaning of the throat and neck area is a must.
If you are just using the bore brush, you are not getting it out.
Carb cleaner (and I prefer Advanced Auto Parts Carb & Choke cleaner as the BEST gun cleaning agent ever) will dissolve any poly/lacquer.
Spray liberally, brush the chamber with a 12g brush. Note that it does not enter the neck area.
Brush that with a .45 brush.
Repeat liberal sprays of carb cleaner.
Works best if you mount the brushes on a short rod chucked in a battery powered drill and spin them on medium speed while you continue to flush with carb cleaner.
Pay close attention to your gas system and valve making sure that is clean. You may want to try higher settings but if any force is required to bang out an empty, it is likely garp in the chamber.
Don't beat on the bolt! You are going to break the extractor!
If you get a stuck case, making sure it is an EMPTY and FIRED case,
Insert a one piece stainless cleaning rod with a blunt brass tip on it, 2/3 of the way down the bore.
With someone applying rearward pressure on the bolt handle, throw the rod forcefully rearward impacting the case. That will jar it loose without putting excess force on the extractor.
When shooting poly/lacquer coated cases, pause every 100 rounds or so and flush/brush with carb cleaner. You will be able to shoot all day long without it gumming up and sticking.
I take along the drill on days I anticipate firing a lot of rounds through it. If they start sticking, a few seconds with the brush and carb cleaner puts her back on line.
The poly/lacquer coated 70's-80's cases leave a deposit in the chamber roughly akin to hot glue when it builds up and gets warm.
Thorough cleaning of the throat and neck area is a must.
If you are just using the bore brush, you are not getting it out.
Carb cleaner (and I prefer Advanced Auto Parts Carb & Choke cleaner as the BEST gun cleaning agent ever) will dissolve any poly/lacquer.
Spray liberally, brush the chamber with a 12g brush. Note that it does not enter the neck area.
Brush that with a .45 brush.
Repeat liberal sprays of carb cleaner.
Works best if you mount the brushes on a short rod chucked in a battery powered drill and spin them on medium speed while you continue to flush with carb cleaner.
Pay close attention to your gas system and valve making sure that is clean. You may want to try higher settings but if any force is required to bang out an empty, it is likely garp in the chamber.
Don't beat on the bolt! You are going to break the extractor!
If you get a stuck case, making sure it is an EMPTY and FIRED case,
Insert a one piece stainless cleaning rod with a blunt brass tip on it, 2/3 of the way down the bore.
With someone applying rearward pressure on the bolt handle, throw the rod forcefully rearward impacting the case. That will jar it loose without putting excess force on the extractor.
When shooting poly/lacquer coated cases, pause every 100 rounds or so and flush/brush with carb cleaner. You will be able to shoot all day long without it gumming up and sticking.
I take along the drill on days I anticipate firing a lot of rounds through it. If they start sticking, a few seconds with the brush and carb cleaner puts her back on line.
Joined
·
3,495 Posts
My first SVT, a refurb bought many years ago when they were around $250, would rip the rims right off of steel cases and then I had to beat the cases out with a rod and a mallet. I tried everything to fix it but to no avail. The shop I bought it from ended up taking it back. All I could figure was that the chamber was out of spec in some way.
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
