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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So had some range time and several things happened. I’ll post pictures of my targets.
Also, I shot two shots with the bayonet fixed and the screw that holds the metal cap on the end of the stock broke and fell out. And that metal cap has a lot of room between it and the barrel.
3751743
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
So had some range time and several things happened. I’ll post pictures of my targets.
Also, I shot two shots with the bayonet fixed and the screw that holds the metal cap on the end of the stock broke and fell out. And that metal cap has a lot of room between it and the barrel. View attachment 3751743
So did something I did break this screw or was it bound to happen eventually?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Now here are the targets. I was about 70 yards away from them. I was in a kneeling position so I know it wasn’t the most scientific or as stable as a bench but I got an interesting result.

this was shot without the bayonet on
3751753
The right most where the first group shot out of a cold barrel. The three that are diagonal where shot soon afterwards so the barrel was warm.

I allowed the rifle to cool for approximately 10 minutes then fixed the bayonet and shot this group. Same kneeling position. I was aiming for the center on both targets and it shot low.
3751754
Should I maybe try with the bayonet on again tomorrow when the barrel is once again cold?
Ammo used was 180 grain S&B.
 

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I can't help you with screw, but lower point of impact with bayonet affixed isn't surprising. You are adding piece of the metal which is hanging from the end of the barrel. POI will be impacted...now, if you are referring to the group sizes, it's really hard to judge groups because your shooting position (kneeling) was the weakest link in the system...too many variables. Could you repeat that with good support position?
 

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I haven't had a nose cap screw break on me yet; so, I don't think it was bound to eventually happen. It's odd that it broke. The nose cap doesn't have a lot of threads, so it would be difficult to tighten that screw to the point of it breaking. Can you get the nose cap off, or is the remnants of the screw keeping it in place?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I can't help you with screw, but lower point of impact with bayonet affixed isn't surprising. You are adding piece of the metal which is hanging from the end of the barrel. POI will be impacted...now, if you are referring to the group sizes, it's really hard to judge groups because your shooting position (kneeling) was the weakest link in the system...too many variables. Could you repeat that with good support position?
yes but I was under the impression that the poi will be the point of aim with a bayonet fixed on most rifles. Unfortunately not really because my only available shooting place right now is riverbed area which is sandy which makes prone not an option. Although I guess I could try sitting, I hadn’t thought of that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I haven't had a nose cap screw break on me yet; so, I don't think it was bound to eventually happen. It's odd that it broke. The nose cap doesn't have a lot of threads, so it would be difficult to tighten that screw to the point of it breaking. Can you get the nose cap off, or is the remnants of the screw keeping it in place?
I say maybe it was bound to happen due to a slight discoloration on some of the broken screw maybe suggesting that there was a micro-crack that had received one too many shocks. I’ve literally never touched this screw and I bought this rifle still in the cosmoline. So I’d imagine the last person to mess with it was the worker who installed in 60 something years ago.
Unfortunately the remnants of the screw is keeping it in place. I am really bummed about it though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Hopefully there is enough thread sticking out on the other side to get a grip on it and unscrew it out (its should be all thread at this point). Should be able to find a replacement screw easy enough. Liberty has a set, probably would be able to find just the screw too.

Mosin Nagant Stock Nose Cap w/Screw - Mosin Nagant Parts
I hadn’t actually thought of that. There’s a little less than a 1/16 of an inch sticking out. So if I’m very careful that might actually work. Thank you for the link! I’ll see if I can just get the screw.
What kind of metal is the screw made out of? Like is it high carbon and heat treated or just the the cheapest steel they could find?
 

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yes but I was under the impression that the poi will be the point of aim with a bayonet fixed on most rifles. Unfortunately not really because my only available shooting place right now is riverbed area which is sandy which makes prone not an option. Although I guess I could try sitting, I hadn’t thought of that.
Well, depends how did you zero your rifle in the first place, what ammo is used and so on. You were running 180 grain S&B - that's not ammo which those sights were "calibrated" for...if you have light ball, give it a try.
 

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Well, depends how did you zero your rifle in the first place, what ammo is used and so on. You were running 180 grain S&B - that's not ammo which those sights were "calibrated" for...if you have light ball, give it a try.
So had some range time and several things happened. I’ll post pictures of my targets.
Also, I shot two shots with the bayonet fixed and the screw that holds the metal cap on the end of the stock broke and fell out. And that metal cap has a lot of room between it and the barre
So had some range time and several things happened. I’ll post pictures of my targets.
Also, I shot two shots with the bayonet fixed and the screw that holds the metal cap on the end of the stock broke and fell out. And that metal cap has a lot of room between it and the barrel. View attachment 3751743
Why would you fire with bayonet attached ? Were you about to be overrun ?
l. View attachment 3751743
 

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I hadn’t actually thought of that. There’s a little less than a 1/16 of an inch sticking out. So if I’m very careful that might actually work. Thank you for the link! I’ll see if I can just get the screw.
What kind of metal is the screw made out of? Like is it high carbon and heat treated or just the the cheapest steel they could find?
Not sure what steel was used. I would say a "mild steel" type :cautious:
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Well, depends how did you zero your rifle in the first place, what ammo is used and so on. You were running 180 grain S&B - that's not ammo which those sights were "calibrated" for...if you have light ball, give it a try.
Ok, thank you. I’ll admit that when I was a little kid (that’s when I got this rifle) I don’t have a clear memory of putting it on a bench and scientifically “zeroing” it. I do remember putting it on paper with my dad and cousin at 100 yards and it shot to the right but not high at all. Which is exactly what my very first group I shot with a cold barrel no bayonet was like. I hope what I said isn’t too confusing. I shot mostly 148 grain TulAmmo with the occasional copper washed box of Wolf as it appeared. I don’t currently have any light ball ammo and the 180 grain S&B is all that I could find right now surprisingly. So here’s a really dumb question; what exactly is light ball? I think it is a 148 grain bullet right?
 

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I haven't had a nose cap screw break on me yet; so, I don't think it was bound to eventually happen. It's odd that it broke. The nose cap doesn't have a lot of threads, so it would be difficult to tighten that screw to the point of it breaking.
Same, considerably more common to see the nose cap stripped then the screw break if it was over torqued. Would bet more on just old age. Sure looks like rust about a third of the way thru the screw, wouldn't have taken much to break it after that.

Ok, thank you. I’ll admit that when I was a little kid (that’s when I got this rifle) I don’t have a clear memory of putting it on a bench and scientifically “zeroing” it. I do remember putting it on paper with my dad and cousin at 100 yards and it shot to the right but not high at all. Which is exactly what my very first group I shot with a cold barrel no bayonet was like. I hope what I said isn’t too confusing. I shot mostly 148 grain TulAmmo with the occasional copper washed box of Wolf as it appeared. I don’t currently have any light ball ammo and the 180 grain S&B is all that I could find right now surprisingly. So here’s a really dumb question; what exactly is light ball? I think it is a 148 grain bullet right?
Well to answer your main question light ball is lead core 147gr, LSP is the same thing but has a steel penetrator rather then a lead core.
I can't speak for the full S&B load, but the bullet weight really shouldn't be the issue. I mean heavy ball is 182gr and Hungarian heavy ball is still considered some of the best surplus ammo to hit the market, and at that range you shouldn't be seeing an overly significant difference.
I would put more on the fact you are essentially shooting 65 meters with a 100 meter zero. So it is going to be a bit off on the height, that said that is a bit lower then I would expect.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Same, considerably more common to see the nose cap stripped then the screw break if it was over torqued. Would bet more on just old age. Sure looks like rust about a third of the way thru the screw, wouldn't have taken much to break it after that.



Well to answer your main question light ball is lead core 147gr, LSP is the same thing but has a steel penetrator rather then a lead core.
I can't speak for the full S&B load, but the bullet weight really shouldn't be the issue. I mean heavy ball is 182gr and Hungarian heavy ball is still considered some of the best surplus ammo to hit the market, and at that range you shouldn't be seeing an overly significant difference.
I would put more on the fact you are essentially shooting 65 meters with a 100 meter zero. So it is going to be a bit off on the height, that said that is a bit lower then I would expect.
Ok, thank you. I noticed that rust too and figured that’s what did it in. I have yet to mess with what’s sticking out on the other side however, it’s still hanging on.

And thanks for the information on ammo, that’s helpful and I do understand that the 100 meter zero will affect things because of me being closer. And thank you so much again, and I thought it was strangely low myself. What does LSP stand for?
 
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