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· Copper Bullet member
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok, here are some questions for the K98 gurus in the forums. I am saving up about $350 for a decent German or RC K98 at the gunshow in January. Now what should I be looking for in a K98 when I go to buy it (Besides the obvious correct parts and other things)? I have very minimal experience with them, only being able to identify the Totenkopf mark and the BNZ code, as well as knowing the difference between German used, Russian Captured, and foreign contract examples. Other than that, my knowledge is very limited. Is there any specific factory that made better quality recievers than the others (other than BNZ of course)? What factory marks would be the best ones to find, even in an RC? How about barrel strength, were any of the barrels considered better quality than the others? What years should I be looking for to get the best value for my money? Finally, what in God's good name is a sight hood, or a retaining screw? I've seen companies often saying they don't include them, but I have not the faintest idea what they are and why I would need them. I'm sorry for all the questions, but like I said, all I know about these is that they were German rifles from WW2, chambered for 7.92mm, and are very reliable. Thanks in advance for any help yall.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks for the info. I'd really like to find a bolt m/m, but I've never really seen any at the gun shows I've been to. It's probably just really bad luck and being in the wrong place at the wrong time, but the only ones I've ever seen are contract Mausers and RCs. I've been told everything under the sun from people trying to push contract Mausers, but I'm not interested in ones that were never issued to the German army. Basically the collector value isn't of terrible interest to me because I'm in this for the history and shootability, the history part obviously removes any chance of me even considering a pinged rifle. The only rifles I collect for value are SKSes because they're the only ones I can bring myself, as a world war II buff, to part with. That being said, however, the historical value is often directly proportional to the collectors value, so I most definitely am interested in getting it as close to original condition as possible. I know there's not a snowball's chance in hell that I'll find one in original all matching condition for anywhere close to my available price range, but I'm very interested in the bolt m/m. However, I have a question about the BNZ code mausers. Are they really considered any better than any of the others? Or are they just more expensive because of their supposed production in concentration camps? Also, does the Totenkopfgruppen mark make them any more valuable?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Wow simson, thanks for clearing the BNZ code up for me. I was told by an apparently dishonest salesman that the code meant concentration camp. I guess it's the curse of noviceness that makes me vulnerable to people telling me things like that. I'm extremely glad this forum exists or I'd have paid the $500 for the non matching BNZ. I have one final question, what code should I look for to identify Mauser Obendorf and what markings did the Czechs use? I know I'm full of questions but all I had to go on till now was my Great Grandpa's stories of his days in the Imperial German Army that he told me as a very young kid. I'm still working on getting his old luger and G88 from the war, both were in excellent condition and fully matching. No idea what they'd be worth, but I'd still love to have them on my gunrack.
 

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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
I'd like to just squeeze inbetween the argument there for a moment and say that I managed to find a BYF 41 marked 98k in a pawnshop today with a pricetag of $275. Problem was: #1 all nazi markings were filed off, #2 the bolt was a forced match with electropencil (for the wrong serial number I might add), #3 the wood was in deplorable condition and seemed to be shelacked into hell, and #4 someone had brilliantly tried to remove the X that denotes an RC with some kind of weird as hell marking that looked like an eagle stamped over it. That poor gun was a mess, and I had all to do but take it home and give it some much deserved TLC. The one redeeming grace was that the bore was mirror bright with no counterbore whatsoever. Thanks to all ya'll I know now that the it was the code I should be looking for. I love it when that happens lol
 
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