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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok I will admit I am extremely knew to the MH, having only been an owner for less than a month and yet to fire one.

I have begun to check this forum daily and came by the reference of Smletini.

I had heard the thread is the same between SMLE barrels and the MH.

How much work would it really be to build a Smletini? Does anyone have pics?

The SMLE was my first love and the gun sounds like alot of fun. I would probably leave it all MH from the reciever back and full military stocked SMLE to the front.

Seems like it would be fairly simple and if I slowly accumulated parts I might be able to put it together fairly cheaply. I would use it to punch paper and maybe some light hunting duties although the lack of safety is a limitation.

As always and input is appreciated.
 

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I have one, but too kumpewter illiterate to post pics.
Yes, the barrel threads are the same as a No1Mk3. Of course you will have to make the extractor cuts for the Martini extractor. Any competent gunsmith can do this and fit the barrel
The rifle is a Martini from the buttstock to the front of the reciever. SMLE after that. I had a No1Mk3 forend with damage in the arse end, so nothing lost. Now the important bit. Since there is no reciever to keep the forend in place you need the later action that uses a metal bar that hooks on to the reciever, is inletted into the forend and holds it with two screws. either that or a lug must be welded to the barrel with a hole in it and a pin to keep the forend from moving forward.

Lack of a safety? Don't close the action until ready to shoot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Is their a MH that works better for this than others? MkII, MkIV?

The hook method sounds preferable to welding on the barrel.

If I PM you my email address, do you think you could send me pics? I would love to see them.
 

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The Mk III and the Mk IV action had the fore stock hook. There is enough metal around the barrel at the chamber that a simple escutcheon and screw could be installed. Drill and tap the bottom of the barrel right in front of the action.

You could also drill a cross pin hole in the nose cap so cross pin could pass behind the sight base in the gap between hand guard end.

The chamber will also have to be cut deeper and headspaced.
 

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Yep, I have used that reamer three times.
 
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