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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi All
I have decided that the collection needs a revolver in 38Spl, four or 5 inch barrel.
The jury is still out on the manufacture, but the S&W model 10 or it's predecessor the M&P seems like what I want.
They have been around long enough to be C&R, but that is not a requirement. Disposable income is somewhat an issue. I see pricing all over the place.

This may be a question on a scale too big to ponder, but what do I watch for and how do I not make a stoopid mistake in a purchase.
Have several on my watch list at Gunbroker as we speak and it is not an impulse purchase. A good price for a piece that is well used, but not a beater?. Maybe some hints on those that are more collectible, although truth be known, this time I am looking for a shooter.
Somebody gave me a big bag of wadcutters and I want to play.
Help me out please.
Thanx in advance
Aloha
Gordy
 

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Good luck with this. I recently sold (to a friend in need) a S&W 10-8, 3" heavy barrel that was my bedroom nightstand gun for decades. Very well-made gun, those. Seems like, if your interest is a shooter for those wadcutters, one of the clones would be more practical though. And of course I know nothing useful about them.
 

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I just bought a nice refinished Taurus model 82 off the Trader for $185 shipped. It is a four inch heavy barrel and it shoots great and looks brand new. Seems to be very similar to a Model 10. Also got an older Chief Special J frame for a little over three hundred from Gunsamerica at the same time. It also shoots very well but looks to hav been carried a bunch. If you are patient good deals are out there. I have several older M&P's with five and six inch barrels but I'm not ashamed of the Taurus. Just food for thought. Smith's really seem to be going for quite a bit at the moment.
 

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A S&W m10 is a great choice, I have a 10-5 snubby that is a beautiful & accurate (for a snubby), little gun. Trigger is smooth in double action, and is fabulous in single action. The model 15 would be the adjustable sight version of the model 10, if you want adjustable sights.
I see prices around here starting about $350 for a well worn gun, I paid $500 for mine a year and a half ago, at 99% I thought it was a fine price. I see people asking more than $500 occasionally, but those guns seem to sit on the shelf for a long time.
Some others mentioned a Taurus. I have not owned one, but I've shot four of them owned by others. None of them had a trigger nearly as nice as a Smith. If you were looking for a Taurus, I'd want to buy it in person, so I could try it out.
Good luck, let us know what you get.
 

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As a target gun, in its day, the Model 10 bull barrel was among the elite of revolvers for superb accuracy at a time when predominant ammo was the .38 wadcutter.
With a little trigger work, it can be one sweet shooter. As most of the old ones seldom if ever saw full power or +P loads, they generally didn't get worn out or shot out.
Don't expect much in the way of finish or bluing. People who owned one usually shot it quite a bit and it may show a lot of holster wear.
 

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That lot of holster wear goes along with old police Model 10's. I've owned and/or seen a number of those over the years that had been rode hard and put up wet. Unless I could inspect it in person, I'd avoid any 10 showing heavy finish wear.
 

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J&G sales has stainless model 64's last time I looked (a few days ago) for about $370 looks just like a blued model 10 except stainless. Or start searching for a model 15 which comes with adjustable sights. But will cost more that the 64. Frank
 

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I just picked up a Model 10 in 95+ condition in a trade for Austrian Capture Finn Mosin in very good shape and last month got a 15-3 via Armslist here in Washington State (paid $385 for it and it was more than worth it). I suspect you're going to have a tougher time being on an island and all, not a lot of Model 10's around. I have two Taurus (one in .44 special and the other in .357) and both have been good guns, so if you can find a .38 Taurus, go for it. (If you want to shoot target, I would stay away from any of the snubbies, in fact, I'd insist on at least a 4" barrel. Those two-inchers were designed for close up self defense, not really for bullseye shooting.

good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks Redcoat for the info on the Taurus. Don't have any experience with them. Have looked at some Model 15's too. Like the heavier barrel and adjustable sights.
No Snubbies! A 4 or 5 inch barrel minimum. You're right about living in the provinces. LGS has a M&P that is really a beater on consignment for over $600.
That is the kind of stuff available. What did we do before the internet?
Shipping to the Islands is EXPENSIVE especially UPS or Fed ex. I have a C&R, but even for eligible hand guns it is cheaper to have them mailed to my dealer, and pay his transfer fee. I save 30% or better. Can't mail a handgun to a C&R license. 01 dealers only.
A good .38 might replace the 7" 357 in the bed stand, but I don't know. The big silver Ruger does have some intimidation value.
Aloha
Gordy
 

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I prefer the 5" pencil bbl. the shoot relatively close to point of aim. I believe the Smith and Wesson will hold it's value. The fixed sight Model 10 is the best buy right now S&W wise. As posted above the Model 15 is an excellent choice!

Why the 5" pencil bbl? "Mexican carry". The 5" gets past the "jewels". I won't ever again carry a 4" in that mode. Had one in the waistband (a four inch) fishing one day. Came back from the creek and sat down at the dinner table (wooden chairs) and pinched one. Brought tears to my eyes...literally. The five inch extends past the that critical pinch point!! Just sayin'!!

Draybo
 

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I prefer the 5" pencil bbl. they shoot relatively close to point of aim. I believe the Smith and Wesson will hold it's value too. The fixed sight Model 10 is the best buy right now S&W wise. As posted above the Model 15 is an excellent choice!

Why the 5" pencil bbl? "Mexican carry". The 5" gets past the "jewels". I won't ever again carry a 4" in that mode. Had one in the waistband (a four inch) fishing one day. Came back from the creek and sat down at the dinner table (wooden chairs) and pinched one. Brought tears to my eyes...literally. The five inch extends past the that critical pinch point!! Just sayin'!!

Draybo
 

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A lot of those guns have bent barrels, from being used as saps, or bent cylinder rods (or cranes). Dropping them can do it (as can falling from a holster during a foot pursuit. Many have damaged muzzle-crowns, or bulged/ "ringed" barrels. This is from missing a powder charge, sticking a bullet in the bore, not realizing what has happened, and firing the gun with a "plugged" bore. Many more have been damaged by amateur smiths, trying to rotate the barrel (to adjust the sights)
 

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I'm partial to stainless and have a few of the K-frames in .38. You'll probably find it's easier to run across a fixed-sight stainless 4" .38 (Model 64) than any other model right now. There was a glut of them on the used market as early as 2-3 years ago, maybe more, and it wasn't uncommon to find them in the $250-$300 range; some with double-action only hammers. The good thing is that the great majority of them pre-date the internal lock design, and most have the heavier barrel. The 4" is a good all-around revolver, but if I were to carry, I'd opt for the 3" version with the bobbed hammer. Whether blued or stainless, they're works of art, and very good at what they were engineered for, and unlike a Ruger (which I also like), you can buy parts for them just about anywhere (Ruger requires you send the gun in for repair, depending on the problem). Btw, the stainless adjustable sight is the Model 67.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I'm partial to stainless and have a few of the K-frames in .38. You'll probably find it's easier to run across a fixed-sight stainless 4" .38 (Model 64) than any other model right now. There was a glut of them on the used market as early as 2-3 years ago, maybe more, and it wasn't uncommon to find them in the $250-$300 range; some with double-action only hammers. The good thing is that the great majority of them pre-date the internal lock design, and most have the heavier barrel. The 4" is a good all-around revolver, but if I were to carry, I'd opt for the 3" version with the bobbed hammer. Whether blued or stainless, they're works of art, and very good at what they were engineered for, and unlike a Ruger (which I also like), you can buy parts for them just about anywhere (Ruger requires you send the gun in for repair, depending on the problem). Btw, the stainless adjustable sight is the Model 67.
Thanx MG-70
Great info on the model 64.
I have been looking at them and have no aversion to having one fill that spot for a " 38 spl. You are right. there are a number of them on the Market.
Stainless is a good thing too here in the tropics where the humidity is so high most of the time and if you live on the windward side of the islands anywhere near the beach, the fight with rust is relentless.
Since I opened this thread I have learned from all of you more than I had ever imagined about the S&W brand.My only revolver is a Ruger Blackhawk.
The empty spot is still there in the safe and there is plenty to choose from.
Aloha
Gordy
 

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Any K-frame Smith will suit you, i suspect. M&P, Model 10, K-38 Masterpiece, model 15, Model 64 or 67, Model 19 (my own favorite K-frame with a .357" bore) or other. The target guns will cost you, but oh do they shoot nice if cared for, which most were. Adjustable sight models are usually more satisfactory for target work, but my experience with S&Ws has been the the .38 fixed sight guns usually shoot pretty close to point of aim at most handgun ranges.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Can anyone tell me when S&W stopped making the M&P model of 1905?
I am looking at one and want to buy it using my C&R.

Thanks
Gordy
 

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Can anyone tell me when S&W stopped making the M&P model of 1905?
I am looking at one and want to buy it using my C&R.

Thanks
Gordy
Flayderman shows the 38 Hand Ejector M&P 1905, 4th change, as made 1915-42. Civil production resumed in 1946, and would have been M&P until model numbers (for the M&P, Model 10, 12 or 13) were adopted in 1958. ANY M&P without a model number (found in the frame cut-out for the crane) would be C&R. Model 10, 12 or 13s made prior to 1964 would be C&R. Hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Flayderman shows the 38 Hand Ejector M&P 1905, 4th change, as made 1915-42. Civil production resumed in 1946, and would have been M&P until model numbers (for the M&P, Model 10, 12 or 13) were adopted in 1958. ANY M&P without a model number (found in the frame cut-out for the crane) would be C&R. Model 10, 12 or 13s made prior to 1964 would be C&R. Hope this helps.
Yes, it helps a lot.Think I just won an auction on a 5" M&P 4th change, and had planned on bringing it in on my C&R.
Pictures when I get it.

Thanks and Aloha
Gordy
 

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Yes, it helps a lot.Think I just won an auction on a 5" M&P 4th change, and had planned on bringing it in on my C&R.
Pictures when I get it.

Thanks and Aloha
Gordy
Glad you found one that suits. it will unquestionably be C&R qualified.

I need to find one in 32-20 to go with my Colts (and one Spanish from the mid-20s) in that chambering.
 
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