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The easiest way is to buy some lead "torpedo" sinkers that are slightly larger than what the bore size is supposed to be (caution: a lot of sinkers now are zinc, make sure you get real, pure lead). Grease the bore well - don't fill it up, just a good, thin layer on the sides. Put a little grease on the sinker, drop it into the chamber, then drive it through and out the muzzle with a steel rod a little smaller than bore diameter. Completely degrease the "slug" and measure.


Being an 8mm bore, swaged lead bullets for .32 caliber pistol will also work. Make sure they're cold swaged soft lead and not cast (most cast bullets are harder than pure lead).
 

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I use balls for a .32 cap and ball revolver, which are pure lead.

I wouldn't push it all the way through since if the bore is at all rough it'll scrape some lead off and may be undersized. Just go in a few inches, past any muzzle cleaning rod wear and push it out again.

here's a discussion on GEW 88 bore sizes and ammo.
http://forums.gunboards.com/showthread.php?26061-Gew-88-Bore-Sizes-and-Ammunition
 

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Take multiple readings as your calipers only measure two sides. A three leg micrometer would be the way to go but is almost impossible to find these days. Keep the slug turning in your fingures and left the jaws of the caliper ride over the surface of the slug as it is spinning. This will give you a more accurate reading. Take several reading and find the average. You will be close to true size.
 

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Because we use carefully reloaded ammo, an accurate understanding of what the bore and grove conditions and dimensions allow us to use the proper range of projectile diameters. It has also aided me in Not loading for some of the more worn rifles - these bores were large enough to make accurate ammo a challenging proposition. I use a .270" brass rods with hardwood block between the hammer and the muzzle crown. The starter rod is 6" long, then followed up with the 10" and then 18" rods stacked on top of each other. And I start at the muzzle - just easier to have the butt stock on the cushion with the assistant holding the rifle upright.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks for all the suggestions they were very helpful. I slugged the bore today and to my surprise it mic'ed at .313-.318. The receiver has the stripper clip and magazine conversions, but apparently nothing was done to the barrel. A Turkish surplus cartridge will not chamber nor will a Remington core-lokt 8mm. They lack about 1/4 to an 1/8 of an inch from going all the way in the chamber. I'm thinking the throat was never reamed? The barrel still has the empirical stamps and also has a "Z" and an "s" on it, under the shroud. The Z is not in a circle. The barrel shroud and receiver are S marked. I would have bet it was a .323 barrel. I guess I'm a poster child for always slugging the bore of a GEW 88! I want to start reloading in the near future, can anyone tell me what can be fired from this weapon? More specifically can a surplus or commercial casing be sized to fit the chamber? Also would the bullet have to be cast by me in a .318 or something else? The bore on this rifle is in very good shape, and I would love to shoot it.
My other option is to remove the barrel and put it on an 1894 Steyr that I have. The bore on it is ruined, plus that rifle has had no conversions to the receiver or magazine. Thus making it shootable with the correct size barrel for that rifle. Then I would have to find a shootable .323 barrel and put it on this one. WOW. Then I'll post questions on how to replace a barrel :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
The Turk bullet diameter mic'ed at .323 and the Remington at .316. So I'm thinking the Rem bullet would be fine in this rifle, if I break them down and resize the neck. Has anyone done this?
Also can the Turk casing be used if it is also resized? I have quite a bit of the Turk for my K98.
 
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