[Peter Maenner]

Hey Everyone,

Hope everyone had a good thanksgiving. I have a question on lubricating the sks. I keep finding contradicting information on the web, but I'm sure someone here can set me straight. Where should lubricate the sks? My only other experience with a semi-auto is with my m1. I was going to just treat my sks the same way, but then saw some advice contrary to that. First, the gas system. Should I leave it bone dry, use a light coat of oil on the piston and operating rod, or use a light coat of grease on the piston and operating rod? I've seen all three recommendations. On my m1, I use a light coat of grease. I was going to grease the bolt and bolt carrier where it moves in the receiver, and put a drop of oil on the firing pin.
I found a manual online, but it does not go into detail in regards to lubricating the rifle. Also, one last thing, do the recoil buffers actually serve a purpose? They advertise it cuts down on the wear and tear of the rifle. Any truth to this, or is it just a marketing gimmick? Thanks for the advice!


-Pete

 

[car]

Leave the head of the gas piston and the gas chamber dry when shooting (any oil in there will burn into carbon and make it harder to clean) it is ok to lightly lubricate the operating rod.

A light lubrication as you describe on the moving parts and exterior of the rifle with CLP or regular gun oil will be fine (and a lot better than what ComBloc troops used on it). Be sure to lube the locking system and the bolt, I use light grease but oil is ok to use.

 

[bch7773]

search the forums for recoil buffers... short version, don't waste your money.

don't lube or oil the gas system.

 

[mriddick]

No oil on the piston or firing pin, I lube the carrier rails and only minimally oil the trigger group (it will collect dirt and cause slam fires).

 

[1911crazy]

I lube my sks with moly.

I use it on the; Receiver, the bolt, op rod/spring, recoil spring, trigger sear and i put a little inside the gas tube and on the gas piston.

I put some moly on the gas piston and install it in backwards in the gas tube to work the moly in by hand first. You have to work it into the pores of the metal. Then i put just a little more moly on the gas piston when i assemble it.

Your gun will cycle faster and smoother, plus the trigger will feel like an expensive trigger job was done to it just by using a lube.

Moly;

Eliminates all wear

Reduces Friction

Prevents Galling

Stays were you put it

Does not attract dirt

Fights corrosion


www.tsmoly.com (TS-70 Moly is what i'm using)


If your seeing any wear at all your present lube isn't working. Not even the bluing on my rails is seeing any kind of wear it still looks like new. Oil is for the bores.

 

[lite-box]

oil on trigger group only and for wiping down the white parts ( carrier/bolt ), Grease ( plastiluble ) on recoil spring,rails and cam surfaces.

Liberaly or even lightly Oiling rails and carrier = getting lotsa oil in the face when shooting.

 

[point622000]

Hi 1911 crazy,

You note about greasing the gas systen is not mentioned in the US ARMY manual on CAPTURED small arms, I have from Vietnam.
I have been shooting the SKS for over 35 years & have about 6-7 of them, from a number of EAST Block & Chinese countrys.

Can you give us a documented source of this greased gas system that you do.

Greasing the system to any extent will BOOST the pressures there very high. It is made with a certain amount of clearance for a reason.

The gas system will get clogged with burnt grease fairly quickly.

It is YOUR Rifle if you think it works good for you.
I will continue to follow the book & a number of posters here..

Best to you,
point6

 

[1911crazy]

Just look at the number of yugo sks's with wornout gas systems that by itself should be a clue to lube it right? Just a little moly will do the trick. All you have to do is to try it on one gun and you will see the difference in performance plus it will never wearout too. Even if you burnish it into the pores of the metal and wipe off the excess its still there protecting it against wear, reducing friction and preventing galling. It also fights corrosion too. It stays in the pores of the metal and wears against itself, its moly against moly. There is no more metal to metal contact thus "NO Wear" its eliminated.

With using moly inside my receivers on the rails the orginal bluing is still there so there is no wear yet. Plus i like to shoot alot and don't plan on replacing anything or wearing out before its time. Thats why i'm using moly.

I have nothing to do with the sales of production of moly my fight is against things wearing out before there time when it can be prevented with just using the right lube.

Trust me just because it isn't in a manual dosen't mean you can't do it. I have used a little moly in every gas system so far with no problems yet since the 70's. It has a flawless track record in every application i have tried it in so far. I've used it in cars/trucks, race car engines, tractors and power equipment too. And in all my guns since the 70's.

Its going to lessen the pressure in the gas system because the parts will move faster because of less friction. Remember your just using a little moly.

 

[mriddick]

Yugo's with issues normally do not have worn gas systems, they have corroded gas systems from not being cleaned after shooting corrosive ammo.

 

[1911crazy]

I lubed up my new saiga in 308 with moly and went out and shot it. The three of us hammered it with about 300rds of SA 308 ball ammo. When i got home i wiped out the receiver and cleaned the barrel and put it away. I forgot and never redid the saiga up with moly. My age is making my memory slip away now i just forget things if i don't do then right away. All the moly that was there was in the pores of the metal. We went off to the range again and hammered it again looking for any flaws in this awesome piece and at the end of the shoot i realized i did relube it. When i got home expecting the worst i found the bluing on the rails to be still intact and no wear on any other moving parts, all the bluing was still there. There was no galling or any visible wear. Using moly saved my butt again....

It also made me realize in a cold weather situation the gun can be wiped dry of moly and still have the protection of moly in the pores of the metal. Thats a good thing to know. You can burnish it into the pores of the metal and wipe off the excess and its still there protecting us against wear/friction/galling/corrosion.

What lube to use or what to lube is up to you but i plan on my guns being handed down for the future generations in my family and they won't be wornout.

 

[Guest]

The oil in the face thing bugs me. I had that issue before (my fault, obviously).

Anyone have any photographs of the areas on the SKS where I should lube so I can be sure I'm doing it in the right places? My ignorance causes me no end of hassles. Thanks a bunch for any help...