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411 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·

411 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Treating Shock:

Treating Shock:

Shock is the body's inability to circulate blood and air due to major or even minor trauma, including but not limited to: severe blood loss, blunt force trauma, burns, allergic reactions, insect/snake bites, dehydration, and heat stroke.


Some symptoms are dizziness, nervousness, incoherence, nausea, vomiting, clammy skin, blotchy and blue skin especially around face and mouth, paleness, thirst, rapid breathing, and confusion.


It is usually best to lay the victim down and elevate their feet. However, legs that are broken and not splinted should not be raised, nor should you raise them if there is an abdominable wound. In some cases such as after a heart attack, a victim may be able to breath easier sitting instead of laying down, and that is okay.

Next, loosen clothing to promote air and blood circulation.

Next, it is important to regulate the victim's temperature. IN a cold climate, place loose blankets or ponchos on the victim to keep their body heat from escaping. In hot climates, use those blankets/ponchos to provide shade from the sun.

DO NOT ADMINISTER FOOD OR DRINK as this may deepen the effects of shock.

Keep the vitim calm, constantly reassure him. Do not discuss the severity of his injury around him or anyone else near him as the affirmation of a life threatening injury may deepen the victim's shock.




411 Posts
This list is a collection of BOB contents from around the web there are some duplications and some things might be missing.
It is not inteded to be a universal BOB must have list its just something to get you started and to show what others have said and show where you may be lacking.

The kids part I really like part comes from the west coast from their experience with earthquakes and students at school.

So enjoy!


1 One-Quart Ziploc Bag
1 Chemical Foot Warmer
1 Plastic Hooded Poncho
1 Space Blanket
1 LED flashlight
1 Cyalume Stick
1 Straw
1 Combo Tool that is a Whistle/Compass/Thermometer/Magnifying Glass
1 First Aid Kit (2 wipes, 2 small band-aids, 2 medium band-aids, 2 larger band-aids)
2 Alcohol Prep Pads
1 Ration of Toilet Paper
2 Safety Pins
2 Sticks of Chewing Gum
1 Piece of Hard Candy
2 Six-inch Strips of Duct Tape
1 Six-foot Length of Fluorescent Pink Twine
1 Dollar Bill
Phone Card and/or film cannister filled with quarters
1 Photo ID with emergency phone numbers and family photo on reverse
1 Pencil Box 8� long, 4� wide, 2� deep
2 Rubber Bands

The poncho can be used as a makeshift shelter as well as for its primary use. Using the straw, the Ziploc bag can be inflated and sealed to make a pillow. The Ziploc bag and straw can also be used as a beverage container. Obvious usage: the space blanket, foot warmer (bigger and longer lasting than a hand warmer), cyalume stick, twine, safety pins, money, toilet paper, first aid kit, and duct tape. Since the kits will be in school bags, no fire making equipment or knives are allowed. However, the magnifying glass in the combo tool could conceivably be used to start a fire with increased aid of one of the alcohol prep pads. The alcohol prep pad primary use is to clean skin. The chewing gum and hard candy are “comfort� items as well as the family photo on the reverse of the ID card. The ID cards have emergency numbers, address, and my toll free number for calling family members. The rubber bands help keep the pencil box shut and can be used for amusement (magic tricks or pencil box guitar). The school backpacks also have a small flashlight on them and there is always a trail mix bar inside. Obviously there are pencils, paper, and books in the bag.

two man tent
portable water purifier
need to get a good hatchet, maybe a trenching tool
portable radio
basic first aid/meds/first aid book
birth control (never know when the love bug may bite)
change of clothes, extra socks
sleeping bags
rain gear
light fishing gear
gun cleaning kit
Boy Scout handbook/survival manual
duct tape
a stone for your knife
tons of extra batteries
pack saw
potassium iodate (anti-radiation pills)
gas masks/full bio suits
police/emergancy/weather type scanner
vhf two way radio (marine type) or at least a cb radio
emergancy strobe (marine type) or flares
12 hour light sticks
kaopectate, imodium, or other disentary medicine for the kit.
high spf sun block
garbages bags for trash, toilet (got a bucket?)
potassium iodide
portable stove
high energy food bars
550 para cord/rope (a million uses)
-boonie hats (to protect from the sun; easy to pack)
-large handerchiefs (a million uses)
-SERE cards (you can almost ditch the BSA manual for this)
-polypro underwear (will help keep you comfortable and alive as the temperaturce shifts.
-gloves (sturdy operator gloves will protect your hands from everyday scuffs and nicks; you'd be surprised how bad your hands get dinged in a survival situation)
-emergency space blanket (lightweight and waterproof; will keep you warm and can be used to carry the injured)
-belt canteens or water bladder (your need to carry water is probably greater than you think)
-cigarettes (these aren't for smoking; these are for barter. A pack or two in a hard box is light enough and will be more valuable than what you paid for them in a survival situation)
gas mask
super glue
Bic lighter
Tin foil
P38 can opener
Spare glasses
Disposable razor
Good boots
Web gear
Sleeping bags
Maps of the local area (street and topo)
Seasonal clothing
Comfort items for children
Hard candy
Personal medications
Specific personal needs items
Sewing kit
Surgical kit
Spare clothing
Hand Sanitizer and/or anti-bacterial soap (works well if put in women's knee high stockings, keeps it from getting too goopy)
duct/eletrical tape
leatherman tool
water purification tablets

First Aid Kit:

Alcohol prep pads
Children’s Ibuprofen
Children’s Claritin
Benadryll Capsules (anti-histamine)
Surgical kit
Migraine pills
Children’s/personal medication
Cough drops
Cough suppressant/decongestant
Band Aids
Cold compress
Ace bandage
Bandages of various types
Hand sanitizer
Material for a sling
First aid book
Anti acids
Topical anti biotic
Oral anti biotic
Tinactin (anti fungal)
Cortisone cream (anti itch)
Burn cream/gel/bandages
bee sting kit
Ammonia inhalant
Pen light
Potassium iodate/thyroblock
Super glue
Eye wash solution
Spare glasses/eye glass repair kit
Eye patch
CPR breathing barrier
Diarrhea medication
Nose spray
Skin disinfectant
Ear drops
Splint material
Trauma shears
Anti-constipation medicine
Anti-yeast medication
Activated charcoal
Syrup of Ipecac
Safety pins

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------Child’s Name:___________________________________________________________Child’s Birth date:_____/_____/_________Mother’s Name:_______________________________ Phone ( )_________________Father’s Name:________________________________ Phone ( )_________________Emergency Contact:____________________________ Phone ( )_________________Emergency Contact:____________________________ Phone ( )_________________Child’s Allergies:__________________________________________________________Doctor’s Name:_______________________________ Phone ( )__________________

Student Comfort Kit

Please send the following items your child may need in the event of an earthquake or other emergency. Nothing brings comfort to a child like a snack and something special from home. The bag will be stored in your child's classroom and will be passed out if an emergency occurs.

**Please use a gallon size zipper style plastic bag for storage of your child's kit. Please mark the bag with your child's name and room number.

·2 granola bars
·Fruit roll-up or small package of nuts or raisins
·Single serving, non-perishable, securely sealed food item

Items for Warmth:
·Space blanket (available for about $4 from Wal Mart or K-Mart)
·2 leaf/lawn bags--one to sit or lay on, the other for a "raincoat"

Other possible items:
·Letter of comfort (a letter to your child informing them that they will be taken care of until you get to them)
·Family photo
·Small flashlight or penlight and batteries
·Small Toy
·Bottled water or juice (no glass containers please)

411 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Shelter/Gear Database

This is a place to store the best information concerning Shelter. Check back often, as anytime a good post is made, it will be saved here for reference!


(From Dr. Zero)

I know you have all probably seen those silver mylar blankets they sell for emergencies.
They are the same kind of plastic like the silver balloons you get for paties and the likes and are ok
For a couple of dollars more you can get a good emergency blanket that is silver on one side and od on the other and the silver wont flake off like the cheaper ones.


Here are a couple of links to them


Bug-Out Campers/Trailers (from Dr. Zero)

Some very cool designs and most are easy to build and the frames are available from Harbor Freight.

Here is a nice site where this fellow shows his being built

Si vis pacem, para bellum.
Edited by - King Lou on 04/14/2005 2:02:25 PM

King Lou

3716 Posts

Posted - 04/14/2005 : 2:01:59 PM Show Profile Visit King Lou's Homepage

From Ronnoc:

Here is a great site for gear, some of the cheapest on the Internet. I have purchased from them several times and they are great to work with.

Water filter is definitely one of the top items to have. You could never haul or pack as much water as you will need. The one I have has a sink attachment for home use if needed as well. F460
Si vis pacem, para bellum.
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King Lou

3716 Posts

Posted - 04/14/2005 : 6:19:47 PM Show Profile Visit King Lou's Homepage
Excellent link:

coutesy of Protus!

411 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Good Bike tips

I spoke witht the Author of this article and he said it was cool to share to I just havent got off my duff and done it till Protus reminded me about it last night. So enjoy!

From Backwoods Home magazine
"Good bicycles get you to biology class or the corner store without noise or pollution. They give you a sense of freedom and self-sufficiency. They help you lose weight, feel healthier, look better, sleep more soundly and perhaps live longer. They might save you money by allowing you to do with one less car as you exercise your way to the office. In congested cities, they bypass traffic jams, providing not just low-cost mobility, but sometimes more mobility than a car. Their technology is comprehensible to anyone who made it through junior high school. If they aren’t left out in the rain too often, they can be maintained for generations with basic hand tools. They have a fascinating history. Evolving from "Velocipedes" – toys known as "bone-shakers" to those who rode them over cobblestones - through dangerous high-wheels and "safety bicycles", they were finally made practical when a Scottish veterinarian named John Dunlop invented pneumatic tires. By 1895, bicycles as we know them had arrived - ball bearings, chain drives, variable gears, cable controls, and air-filled tires on wheels with wire spokes. Mass production techniques made them affordable, and suddenly the working class had unprecedented mobility, their practical radius as pedestrians multiplied by a factor of about five. Bicycles were well on their way to supplanting horses as personal transportation before they were in turn superseded by the internal combustion engine. Bicycles didn’t require pastures, barns or a winter supply of hay and oats. They didn’t kick, bite, or run away. (They still don’t kick or bite, but they seem to have learned to run away if you don’t keep an eye on them.) Even after the advent of affordable automobiles, bicycles continued to be thought of as utilitarian transportation in some parts of the world, like the Netherlands and Japan. In wealthy North America, though, they were once again relegated to toy status.

Then during the 1970’s, the OPEC oil embargo and environmental consciousness hit the baby-boomers at about the same time, and there was a second "bike boom". Millions of "ten-speeds", more properly called "road bikes", went into the garages of America. Many of them were of very high quality, and many of them were never ridden much as gas prices came back down and their owners aged.

Nowadays, road bikes are out of fashion, and mountain bikes are all the rage. But again in the American tradition, they tend to be thought of and designed for sport and recreation rather than as serious transportation. People put them on automobile roof racks and drive them places to play with in the dirt. The features that make them fun off-road are disadvantages on pavement. Fat tires and knobby treads have greater rolling resistance than thin, slick tires. Upright handlebars permit only one body position, no matter how long the ride or what conditions or winds are encountered. Short wheelbases are uncomfortable and tiring. Shock absorbers and 21-or-more speeds add unnecessary weight to be propelled up hills. Trendy or not, three-decade-old road bikes will dramatically outperform state-of-the-art mountain bikes on hard-surfaced roads. They are a superior choice for anything but bombing down debris-strewn dirt trails.

There are many other types of bicycles serving many other purposes. BMX for racing on dirt tracks, recumbents, tandems, etc. The focus of this article will be very specific: High end ten- and twelve-speed road bikes from the 1970’s and early 1980’s. Such a bike will have drop handlebars and 27" wheels, and a rear freewheel cluster with five or six sprockets, and will commonly weigh less than twenty pounds.

The basic geometry of these bikes had been established by the time of the first world war. Since then, millions of people have ridden billions of miles, all the while trying to figure out how to reduce weight and increase speed, efficiency, comfort and reliability. Although the technology was mature well before the 1970’s, incremental improvements and refinements continue, of course. Road bikes being manufactured today have freehubs, with cassettes of seven or more cogs, as opposed to freewheels with clusters of five or six sprockets. And rims have gone to the European standard, with metric sizing now being the norm.

Old road bikes are thus outdated as well as out of fashion. They have very little resale value, and dealers are reluctant to even take them in trade. Uncountable multitudes of them are therefore languishing in garages or basements, or being hauled to landfills. Yet, in some ways, those older bikes are superior to even the newest versions. They tend to have better frame clearance in case you’d like to add fenders or slightly wider, more comfortable tires. Their frames are more likely to have threaded eyelets with which to attach fenders and racks. They were made before liability concerns outweighed common sense and affected the form of things like front forks and bottom brackets - today’s bikes, in some ways, are designed by lawyers.

411 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
In 1979 my college graduation present to myself was a 12 speed. I still have it, and it was well-maintained until I was hit by a car fairly recently. (Okay, technically I hit the car, but the end result was the same.) Once my road-rash cleared up, I went to the local bike shop in need of new wheels, fork, brake and crankset. The proprietor no longer stocked either 27" wheels or freewheels, but he let me in on a trade secret: The best place to get those parts is the local dump or at yard sales. He told me that he himself literally threw away about fifty bikes a year. Sure enough, I started looking over the scrap metal pile at the local recycling center on trash day, and within a few weeks I’d found everything I needed. And the quality was better than that of the originals. Hmmm, I was on to something. Since then I’ve assembled several more bikes for myself, and one for my daughter to take to college this fall, and I’ve upgraded our components when opportunities presented themselves.

If you’re interested in the economic and ecologic sense of alternative transportation and don’t already own a bike, this is a chance to experiment without a large investment. If you have an old bike with sentimental value in your attic – a friend that’s carried you thousands of happy miles – maybe it’s time to put it back in service with upgraded brakes, wheels or drive-train parts. If you already have a nice bike, you might also want a "beater" to ride in the rain, or where theft is a concern. The uglier the better, but it should still be in excellent mechanical order. Get over the pride thing, if that’s an obstacle. Re-using is the ultimate form of recycling, and good for everyone concerned. Consider the energy and material resources it took just to mine the ore for a bike’s metal, let alone to manufacture, market, package and ship it. You’re doing yourself and the world a favor by rescuing and resurrecting one.

Now, back to the scrap metal pile: One might get lucky and find a complete bike in good order, but usually parts are missing or damaged - most often wheels, saddles and pedals, so grab those whenever you see any worth grabbing. Frames will occasionally be of aluminum, but usually of steel. Avoid cheap spot-welded frames with stamped components. While they can be made rideable, they will never be rewarding and aren’t worthy of your time and effort. Good steel frames will be "lugged" – made with sockets that strengthen the joints between tubes, the areas of highest stress. Another quick way to recognize quality is to look at the right crank and "spider" – the starfish-shaped piece that the front chainwheels are bolted to. If they’re cast as one piece, it’s a decent bike. Look, too, for wheels with alloy rims and stainless spokes. Steel wheels are heavy and unresponsive. (Hey, I think I was married to one of those once ….) If a bike’s frame is the wrong size for you, maybe it’s the right size for someone you know. Or maybe the components are worth salvaging.

Give any older bike a thorough going-over. The bearings should be cleaned and repacked with grease. New brake pads are always a good idea. Even if they aren’t worn, they harden with age. Modern cables have stainless steel wires surrounded by a low-friction liner, conducive to clean, quick shifting and braking. Older unlined cables should be replaced. The handlebars will likely need re-wrapping. Look in used book stores for a repair and maintenance manual with a copyright date in the appropriate date range. While you’re at it, get a book or two about how to ride – there’s more to it than you might think. The mysteries of adjusting derailers and servicing headsets will be solved once you sit down with a book and your bike and follow the procedures step by step. You may feel more comfortable if you dissect a junk bike first, just to see how things work, before you begin on your legitimate restoration project.

Once you have what you’re looking for, throw away anything on it that adds useless weight. Those brake extension levers on some bikes, for example. At best, using them will teach you poor riding habits. At their worst, they can be dangerously inefficient. If you prefer straight handlebars and upright brake levers, you can create a hybrid. If the front derailer is damaged, save yourself some weight and complexity and do without it. Remove it and one of the front chain rings, and you own a five-speed. Do you really need any more? If you don’t have many hills to contend with, consider going all the way to a single speed. This will relieve you of the need for the rear derailer, all the rear sprockets but one, and the shift levers and cables. It will save a few additional ounces with a shorter chain, too. A singlespeed is noticeably more efficient than a multispeed in the same gain ratio because of it’s lighter weight and the lack of drag from derailer pulleys. There are several websites that will guide you through the process so that you’ll end up with the requisite straight chainline. Maybe you’ll recapture some of the simple fun you experienced with your singlespeed childhood bicycles. If not, all that’s lost is some time spent in enjoyable, stress-relieving tinkering. Another option for a missing or damaged rear wheel is to replace it with one that has a more modern cassette-style freehub. This may involve spreading the stays of the frame to accommodate a wider axle, but it’s not rocket science and again there’s plenty of information on the web.

While I have a generally minimalist philosophy, there are some things that are worth adding to a bike. Flat tires are by far the most common mechanical malfunction, so a patch kit and tire levers should be in a small bag under your saddle, and a frame-fitting pump on the seat tube. On a long ride, your hands will appreciate rubber brake hoods. Toe clips are considered obsolete by some, and take some getting used to, but they’ll convert the energy you use just to keep your feet on the pedals into forward motion. (Clipless pedals are even better, but require special shoes that you won’t want to walk around in at your destination.) A water bottle will fuel you so you can fuel your bike. Lights are necessary at night. Those with LED’s are remarkably efficient and long-lasting. I’m ambivalent about fenders and racks – if they make sense for you, put them on. Small fenders are useless, but full ones will keep you drier and your bike cleaner if you’re not just a fair-weather cyclist. If you carry paperwork or lunch or clothes, a rack will keep your center of gravity lower than a backpack will. Locks are an unfortunate necessity.

Cyclists tend to be friendly folks who will cheerfully help you. Chances are you already know someone who would be glad to advise you about refurbishing a bike and fitting it to you.

Happy riding-

"When I see an adult on a bicycle, I have hope for the human race."

--H.G. Wells
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