Nosecap with the 2 long bolts, as it uses a short screw in rod
Typicall rough stamped finish on the nosecap and triggerguard
Welded (REALLY rough) safety
NEVER had a dust cover fitted that I can see - I fitted a spare original dustcover I had, and it REALLY didn't want to move, let alone close properly! Could be old dried grease and crud, but I feel it never had one in the field.
Stock is nice, with no rough chatter, and it's original urushi finish. Wood seems mostly maple (or whatever the nice Japanese wood is), with the bottom butt splice in beech - NO separation at all.
Mid band non-monopod, not even the bottom bracket for it - just a plain welded band. Full swivels butt and mid band.
Bore is immaculate, nice chrome.
One issue is the original rod has broken off in the stock, leaving the threaded section screwed into the round ferrule. I cannot conceive how to remove it to fit my spare original short rod, and am open to suggestions - a friend suggested hitting it with a thin welding rod and unscrewing, but I am concerned about burning the stock of course! I could buy a repro short rod and cut it and glue it in there with some wood glue just for show, or just leave the whole thing as a testament to a bringback - opinions??? There is NO way that cylindrical ferrule is coming out with the threaded section still in it.
I saw your post over on CSP. You've come to the right place here on gunboards. This is where the experts are. As asked, if you post some good pictures of the whole rifle, some of these guys can tell you what you have. A close-up of the left side of the receiver showing all the markings would be helpful. We know it's a Type 99. Somebody probably knows how to get the broken cleaning rod out also. Did you mention if the bolt was matching?
Assuming you can remove the action from the stock, one way to remove the broken short rod and round ferrule is to use a razor knife to carefully make slices on either side of where the rod is (inside the stock, not outside!), from the ferrule forward. Lift the sliver of cut wood out, tap out the ferrule and broken rod. You can then most likey remove the broken piece from the cylinder. Replace the cylinder along the repro rod into the cutout, then glue the sliver of wood you cut out back in place. I did this on a 7th series with the same issue.
I'll never understand this "dust cover thing". This rifle is well into the 6th series so it never had one. Just running a cover onto it one time will brighten up the grooves in the cover tracks. I never put covers on any rifle that didn't come with a matching one.
In defense of "the great un-washed", such as myself, until one buys the books and studies up on the different characteristics and features, some don't know that just because the dust cover grooves are there doesn't mean there was a dust cover issued.
Sort of goes along with the idea of hiding the serial number to keep someone of accusing you of having a stolen rifle. Not knowing the same serial number is repeated for every series, and every arsenal.
Yeah, like I said,"Never had a dust cover that I can see" - I just tried one on, took it off immediately. Yes, I have forgotten most things Arisaka - haven't owned one in 20 years (even sold Fred's book... sacrilege I know...)
The safety does not seem to match, but the bolt does. I do have a couple spare safeties, so not a big issue. Now, without jumping down my throat or groaning, this should be a SMOOTH finish safety, NOT a rough weld, nor an early "checkered" one. Correct?
I had considered slicing out the ferrule as suggested. I do have an ORIGINAL spare 5" rod, so would refit that instead.
Thanks for the info guys. Much appreciated. Will do better pictures soon. Just need an original sling.... kicking myself for passing up on the libertytree one recently! I guess an old shagged looking Swede sling can do for the time being (runs and hides in cover)