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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Picked up a couple boxes of this at a lgs, does anyone know definitively if this ammo is corrosive or not? I’m assuming since it says “made in the czech republic” it was made after 1993 when the czech republic became a thing. Is the 5,3 mm boxer primer a standard large rifle primer? Anything else you can tell me about this ammo would be great. I only got 2 boxes but if it’s not corrosive I might get more, they had a bunch.
 

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Non-corrosive Boxer. I found it to be good shooting ammo but crappy reloading brass.
 

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Non-corrosive Boxer. I found it to be good shooting ammo but crappy reloading brass.
Crappy doesn't begin to describe it.

I had a friend at the range who had something like seven complete head separationa out of ten rounds on the FIRST reload of some once-fired S&B brass he had. I know this because he kept having to borrow my broken shell extractor.

I can't speak to his rifle's headspace (a 1943 Maltby, if I recall), but this is pretty unacceptable in any case.

He switched over to some (former .250" primed .303 brass that he bushed down to take LR primers) older reloaded brass he had and his case failures that daty stopped.
 

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If it's in the blue box, I had a primer blow on the first firing. And that was in the first box I had shot in my #4MKII. Needless to say haven't bought any since then. Was going to reload the brass but after hearing the stories about the brass gave up on it. Did find the primer pockets to be shallow as well. Ran a primer pocket uniformer into about a dozen cases. The amount of brass removed was surprising. Frank
 

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+2 on Jonny And Ammo..... I gave about 100 rounds of brass to a friend some 10 years ago after a range session and he said it was terrible to reload...... I then reminded him of the price he paid! As far as the ammo nice sure fire stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks for all the replies, since it’s non-corrosive I’ll probably pick up some more just for one time range ammo, I mean for $.40/ rnd I think that’s pretty good, and it’s not that I don’t like to clean my guns but I don’t always have the time to strip a gun down right after the range and clean it with water.
 

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A new box of S & B at a store is around $21-24 for 20 rounds. Same junk brass, just a commercial box, but the first shot is fine and non corrosive. If you are paying $8 a box of 20, buy it, shoot it, and toss the brass. Fine for putting holes in a target. Garbage, brittle, cheep brass. Better off with some old HXP brass for reloading. .303 is generally 75 cents to a buck a round now. More if you buy some nice stuff.
 

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Picked up a couple boxes of this at a lgs, does anyone know definitively if this ammo is corrosive or not? I’m assuming since it says “made in the czech republic” it was made after 1993 when the czech republic became a thing. Is the 5,3 mm boxer primer a standard large rifle primer? Anything else you can tell me about this ammo would be great. I only got 2 boxes but if it’s not corrosive I might get more, they had a bunch.
About 4 yrs.ago,I took 80 rds.to the range and shot 40 rds.through my NO.1 and 40 through my NO4. I marked The Fired brass ,With a permanent magic marker Red NO 1 Green NO.4 .I neck size only And reloaded all 80 ,with no problems.I Get longer case life with neck sizers ! I'm glad now that I Did that Especially with S&B ! If any one brings me S&B to reload ,this info will be invaluable ! Other than that S&B ammo works well for me .
 

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Neck sizing only worked for me reloading S&B 303 Brit.,6.5X55 Swede and 8 MM Mauser. If you have more than 1 rifle,use permanent color magic markers to know one from another.This also keeps track of how many times a case has been reloaded.I have 80 RDS. of 303 British , reloaded 1 time and 200 RDS of 8MM 2 times and 100 RDS of 6.5X55 3 or 4 times ! I use neck sizers all the timee Prolongs case life !
 

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I had some in .30 carbine. The cases were hard to extract in both my Universal M1 and my Blackhawk - the Winchester, and other brands of .30 carbine ammo extracted just fine - I sold the remaining 3 boxes I had.

On the other hand, my Mauser M1914 absolutely loves S&B 7.65 Br (.32 ACP) ammo - it is more reliable than any other brand, perhaps because they are loaded hotter than most, and thus more-closely match the early-1900s police rounds the Mauser was made for.
 

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I have used it in my .22 Savage HiPower (A rimmed case) for years. If I want to reload, I anneal the shoulder/neck area. I never had a case head separation and suspect that problem is a .303 British problem. Lapua is another one that I have found to act the same way.
 

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I have used it in my .22 Savage HiPower (A rimmed case) for years. If I want to reload, I anneal the shoulder/neck area. I never had a case head separation and suspect that problem is a .303 British problem. Lapua is another one that I have found to act the same way.
That would be true if Prvi didn't run & reload just fine. But it does, so . . .
 
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