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Discussion Starter #1
I have replaced my sear spring for the first time and now my trigger feels different. I think I may have put the spring in wrong. Can some one show the correct way to do this. Close up picture of spring in position would help. Thank you very much. John
 

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Try This:



I really ought to dig out my original sketch and try to transcribe my penciled notes so as to make 'em readable.

It's pretty tricky; don't let that little sear spring get away on ya!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
spring

Thank you for the reply. I really need to know the position of long end of spring. is it tucked behind something or under something? John
 

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In squinting at my old notes, here's what I seem to have jotted down:

"Sear Spring (Tricky!):

a. Lay SHORT hooked leg over neck of disconnecter.

b. Place LONG straight leg of spring against frame lug on Left side of frame.
The loop will sort of stick up in the air when spring relaxed.

c. Push loop of spring FORWARD and DOWN at the same time with right thumb (see sketch) while holding Left thumb over end of retaining pin which is sticking out the left side of the frame, inside end flush with inside of ejector bar.

When spring loop aligns with pin (under tension held by R thumb), advance pin through loop and sear until the end comes flush with the other side of sear, locking the sear and spring in.

Don't push pin all the way through until you have the side plate back on.

COVER that spring at all times!!! ; It really FLIES if it gets loose!

Alternate:

Slide a 3/32" machinist's pin punch through the sear and spring loop from the right side, looking from above. End of punch flush with left surface of sear.

Push in to place, aligning retaining pin with punch end.

Push pin in to contact end of punch and slowly run the pin through as if "follows" the punch out. Maintain contact and alignment until pin is flush with R side of sear as above. "

Gotta run; let me know if you need better illustration etc..
 

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Discussion Starter #5
spring

Uncle Jaque. Thank you for taking the time to help me with this. I have one problem. "b. Place LONG straight leg of spring against frame lug on Left side of frame.
The loop will sort of stick up in the air when spring relaxed."

This I am not sure of. Will the long leg point down. I tried this. I put the leg going down against the lug in between the disconecter and lug. I am not sure if this is what you ment but my trigger don't feel right. I know I didn't do this right. Will need a little more help with this I am afraid. John
 

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Well, Then...

Now that I've come back to check this forum out and been sucked into posting on it again, (which I really don't mind at all, BTW) I'm reminded that it's been quite a while since I monkeyed with my COM - so yesterday when invited by some of my Redneck buddies to join them in one of our semi regular Blamma-Rammothons at a local range, I dug out "Old Gray", my pretty much as-issued CZ-52 and a couple of boxes of Yugo milsurp.

Only got to shoot about one mag though, as this is a pretty casual group of rascals, and about the time I went to rack a round on the next mag, a couple of 'em would go ambling downrange with a few fresh tin cans and such to riddle with their AR-15s... so after a while I just gave up and took pictures.

It ain't my club, so it's not up to me to go lecturing people on proper NRA range protocol etc. - although when one of the dudes had a jam in his AR carbine and got to flutzing around trying to clear it with 4 or 5 guys downrange in front of him, *{8^{Q~ I sort of had to say something.

But I digress...

I found that the mainspring shim I installed, although it works peachy, might have been a little too much, and when I put the safety on it seems to want to engage the decocker and drop the hammer on me - hard.
So I'll have to go back in and diddle with it some more.

When I do I'll try to take more detailed photographs or draw better sketches, because if you are having trouble figuring it out, we can be sure that others will as well.

I need to do that in a lot of other areas that I seem to have overlooked in my original "Shop Notes" project, too.

So hang tough, Amigo, and I'll try and get back to ya!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
spring

Thank you. Hope to see the update on this as soon as you can. Thanks for all the help. John
 

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Discussion Starter #8
spring

Well I think I might have it but not sure. The long end of the sear spring is pointing down between the frame lug. If any one can get a detailed photo of this it would make it easier. John
 

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Actually...

I actually thought about getting the camera out and doing that today, but the 'puter was not reading the drive for my digital camera chip.
Got that fixed (I think) this afternoon so might give it a whirl tomorrow.
Those closeup shots always come out better in bright daylight.

Sounds as if you're on the right track, though.

In this older pic from the archives:



...you can see the short leg of the sear spring hooked over the neck of the interrupter extension, and a little of the top part of the loop behind it.

I thought I posted this one before, but just for redundancy:



The sear with it's pivot pin and spring are shown resting on my 3/32" pin punch. Note how the loop of the spring passes around the pin.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
spring

Uncle Jaque. Thank you for making another post. Yes I sqeezed the long end pointing down between the frame lug and the sear and the loop is around the pin. Looks like I have it right but trigger feels ALOT different. Like somethings not right. I did replace the trigger spring to but that seemed to easy to mess up. but then again. I don't know since it feels so different. When gun is not cocked and I squeeze the trigger I can squeeze it back and fourth and feel alot of tention but still moves. I don't know if that will make alot of sence to you or not but it didn't feel like that before. The gun is new to me so I know nothing about what feels right or wrong. I might be being overly cautious. Let me know what you think. And hope you are still planning on making your revised shop notes again thank you for all you help on my problems. I hope when or if you post your notes again they will make it a sticky this time. John
 

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New Pics Up!

FWIW, I got a few more pics when I took my COM apart to diddle with it's innards.

I found out how the "De-Cocker" works, and since it's a faulty design and not to be trusted, I fixed it so it don't work no more at all.

So there!

I'll post some closeup studies so you can compare with how you've got your sear spring set up. Got a few of the trigger spring, too, just for hoots.

Here's some showing the sear and / or it's spring in various poses:









Just the spring hanging on it's pin. the lower leg is about where it belongs, the top arm with the little "L" bend in it hooks over the top of the lifter arm at the front of the sear.





This is how the hammer and sear go together (Or are supposed to anyway):



This shows a little of how the trigger spring is wound up:



Here's a close-up of your trigger:


How I "Roll" the Transfer Bar off - and back on - to the trigger group.



This is how it's SUPPOSED to work : ....


Note the little bitty end of the sear spring "L" bend on top of the sear lifter arm.

Hope that helps.

Once again I am reminded what a PITA those sears are to fool with!

I might just start from scratch with a reconstituted edition of my "Shop Notes". Don't hold your breath waiting for it to "Stick", though.
Just bookmark it when it happens for future reference, as I fully expect it to quickly sink into the murky depths of the archival abyss like the last one did - several times!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
spring

Very well done Uncle Jaque! You couldn't have explained it better. That is how I have it. The revised notes idea is a good one. I think with the proper motivation they will make it a sticky. In other forums here they have sticky's on "Mug Shots" If they will let that happen I can't see why they won't make it a sticky. When you revise your notes and post I will definetly ask for it to be made a sticky. Thanks again for all your help. John
 
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