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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
It's been awhile since I've been on this site. I did do a "fast" search but did not find a specific answer to my question.

Has anyone found a scope mount that will work (mounted solid and stays that way) on the sheet metal stamped receiver CAI Cetme rifles? Is there a consensus of what is the best to use? Are there any "steps" that need to be done to securely mount one?


It is my undertsanding that this is one rifle hard to install a scope mount on. It's also my understanding that the original Cetme and G3 do not have the same problem as the thin sheet metal stamped receivers CAI used to build many of their Cetme "look-a-likes". Like most, I am out of horizonal adjustment and realize a scope (or red dot) is the way to go.
 

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I have a plain jane German surplus stanag mount and a Fero Z24 on mine. No mods were necessary and you can take it off and replace it as much as you want and it holds zero fine. Apparently, the receiver is a later stamped one with a little hole on top near the rear sight. I have heard that most folks have problems with the stamped receivers but you couldn't prove it by me. Try one out. You might get lucky.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the reply. Mine has that little hole as well.

I read (it's been several years ago) how folks were trying to use the hole for some type of a "staking" screw. It would need to be pretty short not to rub against the bolt carrier! I also heard of folks tightening the mount’s “feet” so tight they end up slightly crushing the receiver, or at least cause it to rub against the bolt carrier.

I just know the Century Cetme is not an easy beast to put a stable/secure mount on. I’m glad yours worked and may need to give it a try. How much do you have in your setup ($$$)?
 

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I forget exactly......I think around 1100. I bought it a few years ago when the z24's cost more than they do now. I think I paid 400 for the scope setup new in the box and 700 for the rifle new, well new from being built by century anyways. I've put between two and three thousand rounds through it and have replaced the rollers with +4 jobbers. Now is specs almost new on the bolt gap. I figure about 3-4 thousand more rounds and the ol clunker will be worn out. I have to say, I have NEVER had a jam with mine that wasn't the problem of worn/distorted mag feed lips. Some of the used surplus mags are really screwed up but pliers and a little care always works. Once you get them tuned, you never have a problem with them afterwards. The exception is the aluminum jobbers. Eventually they get bent simply from pushing the bullets down into them. They will bend back but it doesn't last long. Better to just chuck 'em.....they're cheap enough. I should point out that my mount DOES move forwards and backwards like 2-3mm from recoil. I have kept track of it over time and sometimes it's a bit forward....sometimes a bit back. But it's REALLY REALLY next to nothing. It is impossible to move it with your hands, has never gotten worse and has never affected zero. How long have you had yours? Tell us about it!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks again.

I guess my main problem is that I want it all, a good solid scope mount that will be mounted solidly on my Cetme, but at a reasonable cost. (Anyone else like me?)

It's not that I am unnecessarly cheap, but I have many other iron mouths to feed. If I'm going to be spending serious money on scoping one of my 7.62X51 rifles I put it in a scope/mount for my "pre-ban" Belgium FAL, or my pre-ban M1A.

IMHO, at least in my case, I feel the Century Cetme is not workthly of a high dollar setup. The Cetme works fine, but I can't get over putting more into a scope and mount that I did in the entire rifle!

Has anyone tried welding one on? I'd be OK with never having to remove it. With the thin metal I'm sure warping would be a major concern (although I am not a welder (or pretend to be one on TV)).
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks Doc. I know you"ve been here (on this forum) from since the beginning!

You mentioned you "had" one (and that it worked OK). Is there a reason you "had" the B-square and not "have" it on now?
 

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By far the BEST scope mount that you can put on it, is the Swiss made BRUGGER & THOMET low profile mount. Once you put it on, you never have to take the thing off, just the ringed scope, it's rock solid and quality made. You will need to get high rings if you are going to use a conventional scope, so it clears the rear sight.

My advice buy the real deal made by BRUGGER & THOMET, there are a awful lot of places on the net that are selling toy AIRSOFT made ones, and passing them off that are for real guns. DSARMS sell the real deal, item number BT21174

http://www.dsarms.com/BT-Rail-and-Mounts/products/77/

I bought mine more then 10 years ago to mount my IOR 4X24 M2, from B&T, because those were the only mounts that fit on the early CENTURY made cast stainless steel receiver, and it has never been taken off since I installed it.

 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
That looks great! Nice setup.

Is that a Century gun your setup is on, or an HK (since the fire control positions are not consistent with the Century models)? If Century; is that a stamped receiver G3 or cast stainless steel?


My problem is that I don’t want to put that amount of money into a scope setup for my Cetme. I realize you “get what you pay for”, but as stated in a post above, I view my Century Cetme as a second tier weapon platform that I’d like to not have a lot of money in. I’ve got a safe full of toys and many other projects.

I have thought about getting one the cheaper mounts (i.e., B-Square) and in addition to using the “oil hole” on the Cetme model to “plant the mount”; I have thought about drilling small holes through the legs on the mount and into the receiver “pads”, and pin or bolt/screw the legs to the receiver. I realize there is not a lot of metal for the pins or “screw/bolts” to “seat into”, but I hoping it would be enough to keep the scope from moving under recoil. I might even use “locktight” to secure pad bottoms to receiver in addition to the pins/screws. It sounds like the main problem with the B square (and a lot of other mounts) is that they break (or legs bend) when screwed down too tight.

Has anyone tried this?

(I know this will “Bubbafy” the gun (which I am normally 100% against), but I don’t plan on ever selling, and these will never be “collectible”.)
 

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That looks great! Nice setup.

Is that a Century gun your setup is on, or an HK (since the fire control positions are not consistent with the Century models)? If Century; is that a stamped receiver G3 or cast stainless steel?
It's a CENTURY G3 rifle, and it is a cast SS receiver. As for the fire control positions, what can I say? that is the one it came with the rifle when I bought it from CENTURY, 10+ years ago
 

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Thanks Doc. I know you"ve been here (on this forum) from since the beginning!

You mentioned you "had" one (and that it worked OK). Is there a reason you "had" the B-square and not "have" it on now?
I actually had 2 b square mounts! one of the old style that extended farther on one side and one that was equal.

I sold them both since I didnt plan on scoping the rifle and they were just collecting dust they both worked fine.

The newer model b square has a screw that goes in the rear hole that is normally covered by the G3 sight base.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks for the tip.

I saw that mount before but feared it was a cheap airsoft mount (expecially since the cost is next to nothing).

Does it anyway use the "oil hole" the top of the Cetme receiver (for securing the mount to the reciever)? I am also planning on drilling holes through the "feet area" and pinning or screwing at those position as well. I don't think the mount would move, so perhaps even if it is an airsoft mount it may not matter.

Problem is, if I drill those holes into the reciever then I am committed. I may have to buy the expensive mount (that looks just like it).
 

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Thanks for the tip.

I saw that mount before but feared it was a cheap airsoft mount (expecially since the cost is next to nothing).
at 20 bucks you can bet your bottom dollar it's a toy mount. it may work for a while, but you are firing a real gun with 308 rounds, it's going to fail sooner or later, those things were made for toys that have no recoil and shoot plastic pellets. many years ago when the Hk91 and CETME clones hit the market some folks were buying those toy claw mounts and they broke.

as for this drilling on the receiver, I would not do something like that. Take a picture of the top of the receiver, there should be a "stud" on top of it, forward of the rear sight. That is where the B&T locks onto.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
"as for this drilling on the receiver, I would not do something like that. Take a picture of the top of the receiver, there should be a "stud" on top of it, forward of the rear sight. That is where the B&T locks onto."


I've pretty much decided to wait to do anything until I come across with a decent solution. I don't want any cheap mount (unless it's a really good mount sold cheap (don't we all)).

Heck, the way 7.72X51 is I just may learn to live with the iron sights.

My Cetme does have the "oil hole" just forward of the rear sight.
 

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I bought a Dual Rail SWAT mount from Tapco. It utilizes a set screw into the oil hole to keep it from "walking". I have been using the mount for about 3 years, and once I got it exactly where I wanted it and tightened just right, I haven't had to even touch it. It has held zero with my scope through 2 deer seasons and countless range sessions. I'm not wild about the way it looks,(I want a Stanag) but I am well satisfied with how it works. And for $24.00, I'm not complaining. I think they have gone up to around $32 now.The part number is .... MNT606H from Tapco.
Don
 

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Even though this is an old thread, guys still find information so this is an update... There are 2 kinds of CIA CETME receivers. Those that have the recoil stop block and those that do not. Those that do have a tower / part that sticks up just forward of the rear sight. This model can use any standard HK original or after market mount. The second type is the most common and it does NOT have this tower, so when you look forward of the rear sight it is a smooth flat surface. This model cannot use any of the original or after market mounts as there is nothing to keep the mount from moving forward and walking off the end of the rifle. To my knowledge there is only one scope mount on the market that addresses this issue Here is the link to that mount.

http://mfiap.com/i-18702354-mfi-cetme-6-20-low-profile-scope-mount-for-cetme-only.html

Great Rifles... Worth placing a scope on them.
 
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