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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Thinking about taking on the project.

My Bulgie rat isn't looking any better and it seemed as good a project gun as any. I ain't gonna make it worse!

I was reading up on rust blueing online. The main thing for me is to get a good, durable, and handsome, finish on my main carry Mak. Rust blueing, I understand, when done properly, is among the richest most durable finishes available.

My primary concern in a finish is that it wears well. All finishes wear off eventually, and I don't want something that's going to flake and chip and look tacky as it wears. I actually like a nice bit of holster and common wear to a good blued finish... The ToolBox Mak® is just so worn to the point it's ugly, and I think it's time to give it some TLC.

-S
 

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I have a IJ-70 that I bought around ten years ago. And she is showing some serious holster wear. Time for a new finish! I've always liked the Parkerized finish,SOOOOOOO!
I ordered a Parkerizing kit through the mail. I've already beadblasted the MAK, in preparation for her new finish, that she will be wearing next week. I'll keep ya'll posted on how she turns out! check out calvan.com for the Parkerizing kits!!!!!
 

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One vote for Duracoat.

This is my "Toolbox" Bulgie, but it also carries the distinction as my very first Mak given to me for $50 from my Uncle ob juan. With that in mind, I wanted to hang on to it for sentimental reasons. It had nicks and rust pits on it, and TTH gave me a beautiful finish on it using Duracoat. Done right, it is reported to wear better than about any finish out there. If you want a safe queen, I would love to have a "Smith & Wesson deep shiny blue, but for a daily carry weapon, it is going to be hard to beat a properly Duracoated finish. Media blasting & Parkerizing prior to refinishing is the key, many feel, and the finish I got is not a typical "orange peel" finish for a sprayed on finish indicative of the professionalism of the person pulling the trigger on the job. The stripper in the slide shows no wear or chipping to date for mine, and when I get my new carry holster, I will be making it my main CCW, I have just shot it at the ranges. To get a comprehensive answer to the durability in daily TTH can fill you in on the benefits he has experienced with his carry weapons.
View attachment 13987

View attachment 13988
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Hey. I painted a matchbox derby car for my boy when he was a Cubscout, so I'm pretty dern sure I know what I'm doing here.

Seriously, yeah I've been thinking about Duracoat or something similar. Just looks like... a painted gun to me. But blueing is probably a little much for what I want.

I'l watch for your results, Blackhawk. I know a few people around here have parked their Maks with varying results. I do like that finish, and actually I understand it's one of the best surfaces to go ahead and Duracoat... so...

-S
 

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Hey. I painted a matchbox derby car for my boy when he was a Cubscout, so I'm pretty dern sure I know what I'm doing here.
-S

What is the world coming to? I remember, back in the last century, when it was the Pinewood Derby. :(:(:( Now they're racing with cars made from matchboxes? :confused::eek::(:(:(

SlimTim
 

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Most handguns have a sprayed finish. Beretta, kimber, sig, hk. I have seen them being "sprayed" or "painted" as you call it. Have you ever seen a parkerized handgun that didn't look like crap after a very very short period. Parkerizing is only good to keep rusting at bay. The finish scratches so easily. It makes a great base for many many spray on finishes out there that alot of companies use. The below pistol is duracoated and it looks much better in person. The parkerizing job I did before I duracoated would scratch effortlessly. I would also look into cerakote as well as duracoat.
-Troy




Hey. I painted a matchbox derby car for my boy when he was a Cubscout, so I'm pretty dern sure I know what I'm doing here.

Seriously, yeah I've been thinking about Duracoat or something similar. Just looks like... a painted gun to me. But blueing is probably a little much for what I want.

I'l watch for your results, Blackhawk. I know a few people around here have parked their Maks with varying results. I do like that finish, and actually I understand it's one of the best surfaces to go ahead and Duracoat... so...

-S
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
What is the world coming to? I remember, back in the last century, when it was the Pinewood Derby. :(:(:( Now they're racing with cars made from matchboxes? :confused::eek::(:(:(

SlimTim
My mistake. Pinewood Derby. That's what I meant to say; Pinewood. Yeah. Yeah. Definately. Definately Pinewood. Definately.
Guess I got confused with my fleet of Matchbox cars.
We couldn't afford HotWheels.

Looks good, Troy. Like I said, parking might be a good surface for recieving the duracoat. Is the sight blade coated in the above picture?
-S
 

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Duh-uh, I should have realized that. The way everything else around me is changing, I figured the Boy Scouts were doing things differently too.

As a yute, I was rewarded for good behavior each week with a matchbox car. Assembled quite a number of them, and a few HotWheels. The HotWheels didn't hold the same magic for me.

SlimTim
 

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Looks good said:
There is no doubt that parkerizing is an optimal base in my opinion and those of the manufactures parkerizing should ALWAYS be done before hand unless it is stainless or aluminum. I have Duracoated on top of stainless and even though I sand blasted it first to rough up the surface for the Duracoat to adhere to better ... it still didn't work as nicely as parkerizing it first. The barrel on my sniper rifle was stainless so I had no choice but to sandblast it then go straight to duracoat.... but for Makarovs or other pistols you would be doing yourself less than great if you chose not to degrease, sandblast (alum-oxide 120grit), then wash again then parkerize then duracoat. The whole gun was blasted including the sights and then parkerized the Duracoated. My huge thread with photos and instructions dissapeared from this forum.
-Troy
 

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I Doracoated my Maks, by Troy, "TTH"

Next PageAuthor Topic Page: 1 2 of 2 TTH
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46 Posts
Posted - 05/11/2007 : 4:31:20 PM My bluing was crappy so I media blasted then parkerized then duracoated satin gloss black. I'm working on some of my others as well. Feedback or ideas welcome.
-Troy









Edited by - TTH on 05/11/2007 4:33:55 PM North Bender
Gunboards.Com Gold Star Member


USA
2926 Posts
Posted - 05/11/2007 : 4:43:53 PM Nice first post TTH! Welcome to the Makarov forum.

That looks like a remarkedly beautiful finish, and the Dennis grips help show it off. Great photography too.
Dodging Bullets
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61 Posts
Posted - 05/11/2007 : 4:56:06 PM I agree, it looks great and durable.Dbmack
Gunboards Member


USA
18 Posts
Posted - 05/11/2007 : 5:06:52 PM Very nice job and pics. Thanks for sharing.DbMADDOG
Gunboards Member


USA
78 Posts
Posted - 05/11/2007 : 5:10:55 PM That looks so nice I'd be afraid to strip it down to clean it. Great job. How much do you charge for that service????Bartsitarski
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Posted - 05/11/2007 : 5:35:56 PM That looks beautiful! Welcome to the forum.... Hell of an entry!TTH
Gunboards Member


USA
46 Posts
Posted - 05/11/2007 : 6:24:19 PM Some more photos of redoing my P-64 and makarov, blasting, parkerizing, duracoating. I like the bluing but on some of my Maks it did not look good so that is why the refinishing. It is turning into a hobby though.
-Troy









TTH
Gunboards Member


USA
46 Posts
Posted - 05/11/2007 : 6:27:16 PM Quote: Originally posted by MADDOG

That looks so nice I'd be afraid to strip it down to clean it. Great job. How much do you charge for that service????



I am not sure what I would. I just love the process and making them look perfect.
Parisite
Gunboards.Com Silver Star Member


USA
767 Posts
Posted - 05/11/2007 : 7:28:26 PM Shore is purdy!!


If I did that to one of mine I'd be afraid to use it.
"If guns cause crime, then all mine are defective."
Ted Nugent

"When seconds count, the cops are just minutes away."
TTH
Gunboards Member


USA
46 Posts
Posted - 05/11/2007 : 7:41:52 PM Duracoat is tough... My bluing and parkerizing wore pretty fast in holsters. This duracoat stuff is extremely tough no chipping or anything. It looks better in person also.Timbo
Gunboards.Com Gold Star Member


USA
1230 Posts
Posted - 05/11/2007 : 8:25:59 PM Welcome! You look great! Where did you get that nice Red Star grip? How does that Duracoat feel on your steel? Wow! Welcome aboard.

Oh, thanks for bringing your friend, TTH, is he your designated bodyguard since you are Too Too Hot.

Usually posters join the group, then do a make-over, and then share pics. You are way ahead of the game.
Thanks for sharing the pics.
Timbo
For whosoever will save his life shall lose it: and whosoever will lose his life for My sake shall find it. Mt.16:25Timbo
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Posted - 05/11/2007 : 8:35:13 PM P.S. Would it be improper to ask a ball park $ figure on the entire job. Thanks,
Timbo
For whosoever will save his life shall lose it: and whosoever will lose his life for My sake shall find it. Mt.16:25JZ06
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Posted - 05/11/2007 : 9:26:56 PM I think it turned out well!TTH
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46 Posts
Posted - 05/12/2007 : 12:17:33 AM quote: Originally posted by Timbo

P.S. Would it be improper to ask a ball park $ figure on the entire job. Thanks,
Timbo





You can post prices and solicit work after becoming a gunboards sponser. Contact Vic or Tuco.

Edited by - makarovdotcom on 05/12/2007 2:57:43 PMTTH
Gunboards Member


USA
46 Posts
Posted - 05/12/2007 : 12:23:28 AM quote: Originally posted by Timbo

Welcome! You look great! Where did you get that nice Red Star grip?


Got the grips here...[URL="http://dnmars.43i.net/?content=Makarov"]http://dnmars.43i.net/?content=Makarov[/URL]
mkamer
Gunboards Premium Member


USA
207 Posts
Posted - 05/12/2007 : 01:01:54 AM TTH - that is a fantastic refinish. Looks awesome! Love the grips. I have the same set from Dennis."Freedom isn't free."9x18 Conscript
Gunboards Member


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Posted - 05/12/2007 : 08:32:42 AM Fantastic job. Brings a tear to me eye. Tell you what, since you enjoy doing it as a hobby, I will happily trade you my "stock" Bulgarian for this finished one. I think we would both win in the end. Just let me know. ;)chunkstyle
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1237 Posts
Posted - 05/12/2007 : 10:07:18 PM What chemicals and products do you use for that? Where do you buy them?
"Every child had a pretty good shot,
To get at least as far as their old man got,
But something happened on the way to that place,
They threw an American flag in our face."
-Billy Joel, "Allentown"
TTH
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46 Posts
Posted - 05/13/2007 : 12:25:24 AM I am honestly not sure what I can and cant write in this forum yet. I kinda got in trouble posting what I would charge to replicate what I did for someone without being a "sponsor". I don't need the money I am just here to offer help and to add to the Makarov experience. These pistols make me happy and I now have 6 of them. So Before I get banned from here I will probably need to become a sponsor first before I talk or state anything about making the finnish superb inside and out. Am I allowed to state the procedure for what I have done or post photos?
pwhited
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USA
156 Posts
Posted - 05/13/2007 : 02:41:34 AM I have a question about the spray application and recoating. If some fuzz or dirt gets into the finish, can you sand it and recoat? Are there time limits on recoating? I looked at the Duracoat stuff online, I only wish the color samples were a little better.

BTW, I had the impression that Timbo was asking what it cost you to do the job, not what you would charge to do it for someone. That's the way it read to me anyway.

You did a real nice job..
If it ain't broke, take it apart and find out why.Timbo
Gunboards.Com Gold Star Member


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1230 Posts
Posted - 05/13/2007 : 08:46:00 AM Right you are Pw. TTH, I sure you are welcome to share the process of, say, spraying the duracoat for others interested in doing that. Paint mix ratio, drip rate. equipt. used...
TTH, when you are a business it would be against the board rules,"No commercial postings are allowed on these boards. The only commercial postings accepted are those by Gunboards.Com sponsors & makarov.com ". This forum is great! There have been abuses in the near past of companies using the forum for free advertising purposes. That's why the intervention TTH. Don't be derailed, talk to the boys in the front office about it, from the looks of your work, the forum would benefit from a company as yours.
For whosoever will save his life shall lose it: and whosoever will lose his life for My sake shall find it. Mt.16:25TTH
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46 Posts
Posted - 05/13/2007 : 1:48:03 PM Two other guns of mine I refinished...








TTH
Gunboards Member


USA
46 Posts
Posted - 05/13/2007 : 1:59:56 PM You will need the following..........



-Pneaumatic Media Blast Gun (blast metal at 50psi and plastic grips at 30 psi)

-Aluminum Oxide 120 Grit (at least 5-10lbs worth)

-Blast cabinet works best or something to spray into so you can recover your
aluminum oxide and reuse it.

-Disposable Rubber gloves.

-Silicone barrel plugs

-Fishing wire (50lb test)

-Manganeze Parkerizing solution (parkerize for 5-6 min at 170-180 degrees.

Watch out for burping of parkerizing solution keep it right at 180 degrees

-Wire baskets at least 1(to degrease parts and to rinse after parkerizing)
you don't want to loose things like the extractor when rinsing or cleaning.

-Plastic container to allow finished parts to CURE in after they first hung to dry
in front of a fan. I suspended mine in a 110 oven that was designed to hang
things from. Allowed them to cure for 2 hours there first then I could touch
them and place them on the plastic tray for a week before I reassembled them
(lube parts first)

-Gallon of Distilled Water (works better than tap water, I found)

-Med to large heavy/thick stainless steel pot like a chef would use
(parkerize in this container)

-Duracoat (HK Black is what I chose)

-Nice (not cheap) small hobby spray gun. Don't get anything less than a
2stage gun. Mine is a Paasche VL-set #38395 double action internal mix.

-Compressor to run at about 30 Psi seems to work best. (don't use canned air
you will hate yourself)

-2 coats on parts that slide across eachother(inside frame and inside bottom of
the slide

-3 to 4 coats on surface of slide and lower frame

-Coats must be sprayed so it is not a dry spray but a continous wet spray.
Flash the "just sprayed" area with air after each coat giving about 2-3 min between them. Section off areas like left side, right slide, slide top, slide front, slide rear, etc, etc.

-Feed fishing wire through the firing pin hole and through the end of where barrel goes and attach it on some kinda wood stand you build so you can rotate the slide (without touching it) there is a technique to do so.

-Hang all other parts when spraying them.

-I know it seems easy but I practiced on so old crap guns first and glad I did
so I didn't ruin my Maks. I have assemble, shot and cleaned the 4 maks that I
have done and they are excellent and holster wear is not seen so far.

Good luck with your project and I'm sure I am missing something so post questions if you have them and I will answer them as soon as I can. I would like to add that I will do your gun for FREE if you can't afford to do it, yes FREE... no charge you pay shipping. As busy as I am with my regular job I will only be able to do 1-2 a month. I have no desire to advertise cause I
don't want to turn this into a business so I won't, but like I said absoulutley FREE. I hope that is ok to say without being a sponsor. Thanks for reading.

-Troy
Edited by - TTH on 05/13/2007 2:03:12 PMNorth Bender
Gunboards.Com Gold Star Member


USA
2926 Posts
Posted - 05/13/2007 : 2:07:27 PM Great directions TTH! Thanks.dbmack
Gunboards Member


USA
18 Posts
Posted - 05/14/2007 : 10:15:40 AM TTH,
You have a real talent. Watch out! You may be recieving orders! :)
dbpwhited
Gunboards Premium Member


USA
156 Posts
Posted - 05/14/2007 : 8:14:57 PM TTH, another question: What are you using to replace the red dot on the slide, and the white dots on the sights??

If it ain't broke, take it apart and find out why.TTH
Gunboards Member


USA
46 Posts
Posted - 05/14/2007 : 8:33:39 PM I mix bright cherry red into a syringe at a 12 to 1 ratio of duracoat to hardner like suggested on directions and gently drip several small drops from a 20gauge needle dry it with a hair dryer then put one more drop for a total of 3. As far as the white dots those were custom put on by a sight company. I masked them when i blasted, parkerized and duracoated. Although I heard that Makarov.com sells the white glow dots which I am going to do soon.
-Troy
pwhited
Gunboards Premium Member


USA
156 Posts
Posted - 05/14/2007 : 9:16:51 PM Ok, thanks, so it's a duracoat red, that's what I was wondering. I use the mak.com white dots, and like them, but I would suggest using epoxy to apply them rather than the supplied super glue. Initially I used the super glue but it didn't take much to knock them off, so I dug out the epoxy.

Do you have previous painting or finishing experience? Just curious...

Thanks for posting all this information, I've got a slide that I'm sending off for some custom sights, and I'd rather do the finishing myself.
If it ain't broke, take it apart and find out why.TTH
Gunboards Member


USA
46 Posts
Posted - 05/15/2007 : 01:52:59 AM The techical name for the color is Duracoat "Stock Red". It is much brighter in person and makes the area around the safety lever pop like a new modern gun... I just finished another mak and P-64 today. The color I chose was "50% HK Black" color to 50% "Gun Blue" color. The Gun blue by itself is kinda not like regular bluing color however, when you mix the two equally the color is simple awesome very much like a satin blueing on a new revolver. Don't get me wrong it is basicaly black with a ever so slight hint of blue to make these Maks look even more incredible. Also rest assured you have a far tougher finish with a parkerized base below. The gun simply will never rust. I can attest to toughness when blasting a surface back to steel on a scrap metal peice previously which was duracoated with 4 coats to simulate the slide for practice and I could hardly blast the duracoat off after it had been on there for 2-3 weeks. Bluing or parkerizing comes off effortlessly. I am redoing my M1 Garand also right now. Oh and no experience like this exactly just that I am a perfectionist and love learning and doing stuff like this for fun.Edited by - TTH on 05/15/2007 01:56:13 AMNormanS
Starting Member


USA
5 Posts
Posted - 05/16/2007 : 1:19:10 PM Dang. Thats one sweet finish. Can you do the same to a Walther ppk? I have one that has been left sitting in liquid and has really messed up the slide.
I see you are a Kansas resident. I was born in Emporia but since moved to Florida. So good luck and great looking Makarov's you have there.

Norman
Erich
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USA
180 Posts
Posted - 05/17/2007 : 10:46:26 AM I just ordered some stocks from Mr. Marschalko based on your referral to his site. Thanks!TTH
Gunboards Member


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46 Posts
Posted - 05/17/2007 : 12:27:34 PM quote: Originally posted by NormanS

Dang. Thats one sweet finish. Can you do the same to a Walther ppk? I have one that has been left sitting in liquid and has really messed up the slide.
I see you are a Kansas resident. I was born in Emporia but since moved to Florida. So good luck and great looking Makarov's you have there.

Norman



I'm sorry but I wouldn't want to do the PPK. I am just into doing the Maks and P-64's for fun.
NormanS
Starting Member


USA
5 Posts
Posted - 05/17/2007 : 12:55:51 PM Originally posted by TTH

I'm sorry but I wouldn't want to do the PPK. I am just into doing the Maks and P-64's for fun.

Cool. Thanks anyway. Would like to have my Aarsenal looking like that but since it looks new already......
Maybe when I start shooting it more
Thanks again
Norman
Rocklobster
Gunboards Member


USA
43 Posts
Posted - 05/30/2007 : 6:36:23 PM Man, I am so glad I visited here today! I've been looking everywhere for stocks for my Maks - those are excellent! Also, I thought it would be years before any were available for the CZ 82, and he has those, too.

WTG, guy! You are a gentleman and a scholar.
SWD
Starting Member


USA
5 Posts
Posted - 05/31/2007 : 7:31:32 PM Very nice finish on all the pistols. I am curious if this can be done to a FEG-PA63. I'm sure the top slide would be ok, but the bottom trigger group is my concern. Your thoughts or anyone else on the forum.

Thanks,
SWD
Stephen DeLayTTH
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USA
46 Posts
Posted - 06/01/2007 : 08:25:53 AM What do you mean concern about the lower trigger group?TexasThunder
Gunboards Member


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46 Posts
Posted - 06/01/2007 : 2:48:22 PM I keep coming back to look at this thread. Its like gunporn, thats one sweet Mak you have.Timbo
Gunboards.Com Gold Star Member


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1230 Posts
Posted - 06/01/2007 : 10:40:28 PM quote: Originally posted by TTH

What do you mean concern about the lower trigger group?


Could he be talking about the frame being alloy?
For whosoever will save his life shall lose it: and whosoever will lose his life for My sake shall find it. Mt.16:25Parisite
Gunboards.Com Silver Star Member


USA
767 Posts
Posted - 06/01/2007 : 10:51:53 PM quote: Originally posted by Timbo

quote: Originally posted by TTH

What do you mean concern about the lower trigger group?


Could he be talking about the frame being alloy?



I'll bet you fifteen cents in Mexican money he was talking about the alloy frame.
I have my reservations about the way that would turn out however.
"If guns cause crime, then all mine are defective."
Ted Nugent

"When seconds count, the cops are just minutes away."
NORMSUTTON
Gunboards Premium Member


USA
162 Posts
Posted - 06/02/2007 : 05:54:36 AM TexasThunder

You think troy dose nice work on his guns you need to see his Holster's
http://p64.proboards67.com/index.cgi?action=display&board=gear&thread=1180715318&page=1#1180756140

NORM
NRA LIFE MEM. SINCE 1976



SWD
Starting Member


USA
5 Posts
Posted - 06/02/2007 : 09:15:19 AM quote: Originally posted by TTH

What do you mean concern about the lower trigger group?




Bad Choice of words, I meant lower receiver.
Stephen DeLayTTH
Gunboards Member


USA
46 Posts
Posted - 06/02/2007 : 6:01:01 PM From what I understand Duracoating over the surface of an alloy is not a problem assuming the prep of the metal is done before hand. There is a special spray that will "expose" the pores that will allow the Duracoat to "soak" in and make it a good surface similar to parkerizing.
-Troy
SWD
Starting Member


USA
5 Posts
Posted - 06/14/2007 : 12:41:13 AM Troy

Thanks for the info, I just ordered my Second PA-63. If you are ever up to the challenge on doing a PA-63, let me know.

Thanks again
Steve
Stephen DeLay-gunut-
Gunboards Member


69 Posts
Posted - 06/14/2007 : 3:34:22 PM Damn that looks good!-gunut-
Gunboards Member


69 Posts
Posted - 06/14/2007 : 4:50:44 PM quote: Originally posted by Erich

I just ordered some stocks from Mr. Marschalko based on your referral to his site. Thanks!



How much are they?
TTH
Gunboards Member


USA
46 Posts
Posted - 06/14/2007 : 10:44:21 PM I think the red star checkered are around $35.RMTactical
Starting Member


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Posted - 06/17/2007 : 4:54:58 PM quote: Originally posted by -gunut-

Damn that looks good!



Agreed. Those are some fine looking Makarovs you got there... If the blueing on mine wasn't as good as it is I would seriously consider doing that to mine... Maybe I'll pick up a beaten Makarov and do something like that anyways!
[/URL]Erich
Gunboards Premium Member


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180 Posts
Posted - 06/18/2007 : 1:28:43 PM They're $33 + $5 shipping. Total turnaround time under 3 weeks.Edited by - Erich on 06/18/2007 3:18:38 PMSWD
Starting Member


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Posted - 07/18/2007 : 10:18:35 PM Troy
Received my 2nd PA-63. Now that I have two, I can play with one and experiment with the other. You mentioned that there is a "specail spray" that will expose the pores on the alloy lower receiver. Would you happen to know what this spray is called or what label I should look for?

Thanks
Steve


quote: Originally posted by TTH

From what I understand Duracoating over the surface of an alloy is not a problem assuming the prep of the metal is done before hand. There is a special spray that will "expose" the pores that will allow the Duracoat to "soak" in and make it a good surface similar to parkerizing.
-Troy

Stephen DeLayTTH
Gunboards Member


USA
46 Posts
Posted - 07/19/2007 : 02:20:15 AM SWD.... In response to your question here is the link to the product I am reffering to. [URL="http://www.kgcoatings.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=4000-8oz&Category_Code=gkpt"]http://www.kgcoatings.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=4000-8oz&Category_Code=gkpt[/URL]

You would media blast(alum oxide) the pistol frame first then blow off the Aluminum oxide dust with a high powered air compressor. Then use KPHOS immediatly after that then you can use Duracoat after that. Hope that helps.
-Troy
SWD
Starting Member


USA
5 Posts
Posted - 07/20/2007 : 9:12:22 PM Troy

Thanks for the info. I'll give it a try and we'll see what happens.

Steve
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Troy, It looks like Timbo found it on the old site and brought it back for us. I really need to get some shots of the p-64 you did for me back in the end of July. It still looks great and gets carried in dusty, sandy environments a bunch. It rides comfortably in a M-11 most of the time!!!
 

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Troy, It looks like Timbo found it on the old site and brought it back for us. I really need to get some shots of the p-64 you did for me back in the end of July. It still looks great and gets carried in dusty, sandy environments a bunch. It rides comfortably in a M-11 most of the time!!!
Yes Timbo did... That was quite nice of him... I will email you (9x18shooter) photos of your P-64 in various stages.
-Troy
 

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Nice documentation!

Yes Timbo did... That was quite nice of him... I will email you (9x18shooter) photos of your P-64 in various stages.
-Troy
That is a good documentation of the process being done the right way, and nice to have. I have it for the Circle 10 he did for me. :cool:
 

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Nice... Were you the one I spoke to on the phone?

Troy-

Yep, that would be me. Since that time I have duracoated my Mak, My dad's Argentine 1911 and my Springfield 1911. And a few more projects lined up. If I get ballsey enough i'm going to try the Mirageflage Urban Digital Camo on my Yugo M70!

Your directions were perfect. And you were right...It takes a time or 2 to really get the hang of everything but once you do, it's not difficult at all.
 

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I'm so glad it helped speed up your learning curve. I did my 1911 as well. You will find that after about 10-15 you will really have your technique down. I have done lots of camo stuff as well. I can give you tips on that as well. There is a trick to it. I have created my own tactical rifle camo smear technique that looks awesome. It looks like it was injected molded into the stock during the making. Not sure if this is the place to post a photo of it.
You should see how cool a duracoated leather holster looks... I got bored. The Marines would love it over in "the sandbox". Semper Fi.


-Troy
 

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"Not sure if this is the place to post a photo of it."

Troy-
Send me a picture of your camo project via e-mail: [email protected]
I'd love to see it.

Off to the range...got a hungry Bulgie that needs a feeding......
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Ah, you have succumbed to my diabolical plan: To get you all to unwittingly post the many wonderful Mak Pictures featuring "alternate finishes".

Buahahahahaaaa!

Timbo, I get the dreaded red-X box for most of the images, but the post is informative nonetheless.

-S
 

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Parked my Mak,didn't like the way it looked, Bead blasted it again and re-parked it. Looks better but not as nice as the rifle that I parkerized.Just might do it again, with Black Oxide.
 
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