[BWilhelm]

You might ask, "what's a Pong 5; some kind of video game??" I wouldn't blame you if you did because this thing is pretty obscure. But no, it's not a video game. The PON-5 (Optical Night Sight-5 in English) is an obscure 1990's Russian made, compact, lightweight, night vision optic. Those of you that are aware of this unit already know that there is pretty much zero information available online. If that's you, you're probably going to enjoy what follows. If you're one of the vast majority of people who have no idea what I'm on about, read on because you might enjoy this too.....if you enjoy my usual articles that drone on and on about the smallest details of the most mundane things. The entirety of this article will consist of several posts so check back in over the next several days for all of it. I'll let you know when I've finished. Okiedokie, let's begin, shall we?

Below is the topic of this article, the PON-5, along with some of the kit it originally left the factory with back in 1996:

Although this unit was designed for the Russian military, this picture shows it was clearly also available on the commercial market. Although the carry bag is a strong indicator of this fact, it will become abundantly clear when we look at the manual. So, what are we looking at here? Starting at the top left and moving down, we have a plastic bag for storing the lens cleaning cloth. Just below that is said cloth. Below that, we have a piece of paper that was folded up in the bag with the lens cleaning cloth. It has cyrillic writing on it that I am clueless about. At the middle top is a 1' ruler I put in the shot for scale with the scope and it's carry bag below. At the extreme right is the rather tattered manual. It's numbered to the scope so I know it's the original. Although this entire kit has clearly seen very little to no use, the manual looks rather rough because, to put it bluntly, it's made of very low quality paper and card stock. I mean, it's laughable. Fortunately, the scope itself seems to be as robustly made as any Soviet era unit I've encountered.


The lens cleaning cloth and its storage bag:

Not much to say here other than it's a yellow cloth used to wipe down the lens in a pinch. Best to leave it in its bag for posterity and use something else of known Quality. Does anybody use the cloth that came with their optic? I don't.


The mystery piece of paper that was also in the bag:

Whether this came with it from the factory or somehow made its way in there over the past 26+ years I cannot say but I assume it's the latter.

Logo on the bag:

"Kronos" was/is one of the commercial trade names used at that time by the Zagorsk Optical Mechanical Plant headquartered at Sergiyev Posad, just outside Moscow. They've been making both military and civilian optical equipment since the 1930's and they're still at it today. They also go by "ZOMO" in some markets.

Inside of the bag:

The bag is made of a heavy duty leatherette lined with a felt type material and is reinforced at stress points by welting. It's not fancy but it is sturdy.

Detail shot of the zipper pull and an attachment point for a shoulder strap. The strap, if ever present, is now missing.


The other strap attachment point:



A general left side view of the scope itself:

So, what are we looking at here? Lots of neato things. If you're not familiar with Soviet/Russian NV optics, this might look complicated but it's not, I assure you. You have to remember that it was designed for infantry use in combat. To that end, it's simple to use, robust and generally efficient in its adjustments. At the moment, I'll just introduce you to what we're looking at in the most general way. Later, we'll l go into detail on each feature as we look at it more closely.
-- To the left of frame is the objective lens. Currently, it has the light filter or diaphragm in place. This is used to regulate how much light is allowed into the unit during use in daylight or dusk. Too much light will destroy the internal image intensifier while too little will not allow the unit to properly define the image. We'll get into that later.
-- Moving toward the rear, we come to a roughly "T" shaped thingee hanging on the side of the body. That's the windage and elevation adjustment mechanism.
-- Below that, we see a flat head screw. That's the locking screw for the battery compartment door.
-- The bronze/tarnished brass looking knob is the on/off switch and it also adjusts reticle intensity.
-- Below that is the clamping mechanism used to hold the unit fast to the scope rail on the rifle.
-- The main body of the unit is where we see the writing. Inside there is the intensifier tube and electronics.
-- The entire unit is made of some type of nonferrous alloy and is covered in a very durable dark grey hammertone paint. This was the preferred finish for Russian/Soviet optics going back decades and it varies from a light grey to almost black.
-- At the far right of frame is the rubber eyecup covering the ocular lens.


General right side view:

Notice that there are six flat head screws in a roughly rectangular pattern on the main body. These attach the clamping mechanism to the scope body. In this way, the clamping mechanism can be removed and replaced by another mechanism for mounting on things other than a rifle. Normally, they are never removed though as the intended mounting clamp would be installed at the factory during manufacture thus mating the unit to a particular class of weapon (e.g. rifle, machine gun, whatever else crazy Ivan dreamed up to use it on).


Alrighty, that's enough to get started. In the next installment, we'll begin looking at things more closely and I'll tell you my thoughts on the what and why of the various bits. I say "my thoughts" because you have to remember, other than a few "look at what I have" pictures online, there is literally NOTHING out there for research purposes and there are probably no more than a handful of these units in the United States. What I'm typing in these posts is going to be pretty much all there is as of this date. So, I can only tell you what I see and think based on what I have in front of me and extrapolate from my personal experience with a number of other Soviet and early post Soviet units I've been fortunate enough to play with and take to the range over the years. As such, I can't absolutely guarantee that I'll get it all right but I can promise you I'll do my best. With that, I'll sign off for the night and I'll see you back here soon. Thanks for joining me!

 

[Richard in NY*]

Another nicely written and illustrated review!

Thanks for posting.

 

[max popenker]

The mystery piece of paper that was also in the bag:

Whether this came with it from the factory or somehow made its way in there over the past 26+ years I cannot say but I assume it's the latter.

The paper contains a local phone number. The (254) code refers to the city of the Sergiev Posad not far from Moscow. And then it's a female name Oksana.
So this definitely not from the factory, at least in my opinion

 

[max popenker]

You might ask, "what's a Pong 5; some kind of video game??" I wouldn't blame you if you did because this thing is pretty obscure. But no, it's not a video game. The PON-5 (Optical Night Sight-5 in English) is an obscure 1990's Russian made, compact, lightweight, night vision optic. Those of you that are aware of this unit already know that there is pretty much zero information available online. If that's you, you're probably going to enjoy what follows. If you're one of the vast majority of people who have no idea what I'm on about, read on because you might enjoy this too.....if you enjoy my usual articles that drone on and on about the smallest details of the most mundane things. The entirety of this article will consist of several posts so check back in over the next several days for all of it. I'll let you know when I've finished. Okiedokie, let's begin, shall we?

as for the scope itself
The PON-5 is a civilian version of the MBNP-1 (МБНП-1) night vision scope, originally developed for use with the 9x39mm VSS Vintorez suppressed sniper rifle
The MBNP-1 scope was adopted by the KGB along with the VSS rifle in late 1980s, shortly before the fall of the USSR, and was later "inherited" by the FSB, but now it is considered to be long obsolete.
Below is an old image of the original KGB-issued variant

 

[PMB]

Here is what the military set of this scope ( МНБП-1 ) should look like - photos courtesy of Noktoinfo.
Interestingly, the serial number of this scope N15 E109 might suggest that the scope was manufactured in 2015.

 

[PMB]

And the real mystery to me is that mount, with a spring attached to the scope body.

 

[BWilhelm]

Most excellent information!! Thank you for posting guys! This is exactly why I post these things, to share information.

 

[max popenker]

And the real mystery to me is that mount, with a spring attached to the scope body.

Markings on the knob are:
СТП - Mean Point of Aim
Вверх - Up
Вниз - Down
So it is used for zeroing the scope vertically or adjusting for the drop at different ranges, as the 9x39mm ammo is subsonic and has a rather rainbow-shaped trajectory

 

[PMB]

The meaning of the markings on the mount is not a mystery to me - I happen to speak Russian so I know the meaning. What I do not know is how the mount works - especially with that spring, which may indicate that the mount is swinging ?!
The scope has the possibility to adjust the PoA by turning the correction drum - the mount would provide a secondary correction possibility? But what about the second mount from the set ( the one attached to the scope presented by BWilhelm and also present in a military set ) which seems to be fixed, without the correction possibility.
There is a civilian version of VSS Vintorez manufactured by "Molot", even in a caliber 9x39 - Характеристики карабин ко всс-01м 9x39 Цена:117600 р. - it is about 1500 EUR ( I wish I could buy it - but perhaps in 7,62x39 caliber which is even cheaper - 1100 EUR but that is not possible nowadays ) and I guess the rail is not much different from a military version.
So how it works with that rail ?

 

[max popenker]

The meaning of the markings on the mount is not a mystery to me - I happen to speak Russian so I know the meaning. What I do not know is how the mount works - especially with that spring, which may indicate that the mount is swinging ?!
The scope has the possibility to adjust the PoA by turning the correction drum - the mount would provide a secondary correction possibility? But what about the second mount from the set ( the one attached to the scope presented by BWilhelm and also present in a military set ) which seems to be fixed, without the correction possibility.
There is a civilian version of VSS Vintorez manufactured by "Molot", even in a caliber 9x39 - Характеристики карабин ко всс-01м 9x39 Цена:117600 р. - it is about 1500 EUR ( I wish I could buy it - but perhaps in 7,62x39 caliber which is even cheaper - 1100 EUR but that is not possible nowadays ) and I guess the rail is not much different from a military version.
So how it works with that rail ?

View attachment 4080537

Man, God forbid you from buying the MA-Vintorez. They are poorly made replicas of the original. Only the Tula-made KO-VSS are worth the shot, so to say, because these made on the same machinery and by the same people that made the original military issue version

Карабин охотничий самозарядный ВСС

Гражданский ВСС

tozarms.com

as for the mount, am I correct that your copy of the manual does not describe it in details?

 

[PMB]

Unfortunately I do not have a copy of the МНБП-1 manual - I just posted a photo of the scope offered few years ago for sale in Poland. I haven't bought it. [ I'm a happy owner of 1PN-51 Kazuar ].
So, really I do not have a clue what that spring is for and why double the correction mechanism, both in the scope drum and mount itself.
As for Vintorez - there is no chance to order and buy in Poland either Molot or Tula version of VVS - but if it changes then I'll follow your advice concerning the Tula made rifle.

 

[JiveTurkey]

I looked for one of these scopes forever. Never found one.
Awesome discovery!

 

[BWilhelm]

I looked for one of these scopes forever. Never found one.
Awesome discovery!
If you ever wanted to sell it… haha

It doesn't belong to me. It was sent so that I could do a writeup on it.

 

[BWilhelm]

Alrighty, next we're going to look at the removeable light filter and objective lens block.

Mounted over the objective lens is an adjustable light filter with an iris that works exactly like the aperture on a camera lens:

Viewed from the front, turning the adjustment ring clockwise opens the iris, allowing more light into the scope. Obviously, turning the adjustment ring counterclockwise limits the light.

IMPORTANT:
This filter should ALWAYS be mounted and the iris FULLY CLOSED when the unit is put into storage, powered up, used in anything other than nighttime conditions, and left in place after powering down for at least a half hour because the intensifier tube takes a while to discharge after being switched off. If these instructions are not followed, you will, at a minimum, greatly decrease the life of the intensifier tube. At worst, you'll render it inoperable. THINK before you touch ANY of the controls on this scope. Not doing so can really ruin your day.

The filter is held in place on the scope via two bayonet mounts located 180 degrees from each other:


This one is a little distorted and needs a little TLC:

The knurled painted part is used to grip the filter when mounting/dismounting from the scope while the knurled unpainted part is used to adjust the iris.
To dismount the filter when viewed from the front, you grip the painted knurled surface, push to the rear, rotate the filter clockwise until it stops, and pull the filter forward.
To mount the filter when viewed from the front, grip it by the painted knurled surface, line up the pins on the scope body with the slots on the filter body, push to the rear until the pins bottom out in the slots, rotate the filter counterclockwise until it stops, and release.
After mounting the filter, ensure that the iris is fully closed.

Here, we've removed the filter and we're looking at it from the rear with the iris fully open.

What we're looking at is a spring plate that serves to keep tension on the filter when mounted. Without this, the filter would rattle and easily fall off the scope.
Around the outer edge of the spring plate is a rubber gasket bonded to the plate. This helps keep rain out and does double duty acting as a grippy surface as additional insurance against the filter rotating and falling off.

A general side view of the filter removed showing the knurling detail and hammertone finish:


Here, we see the filter removed from the scope and the iris fully closed:

Note the large number of vanes. Also notice that there is just the smallest crescent of light shining through the center of the iris. The reason it's not round will be apparent in the next photograph.

The iris partially opened:

There are no click stops when opening this up. It's infinitely variable from fully closed to fully opened.
Notice the little tab protruding into the opening at about the 10 o'clock position. This is the reason why you see a crescent of light instead of a round hole when the iris is fully closed. The idea is to absolutely minimize the amount of light entering the scope to protect the intensifier tube if switched on in a bright setting.

Fully opened:

Notice that the glass is grey like sun glasses. That's the point. We're looking through two neutral density filters.

So, how do you properly use this filter?
No matter when you use this scope, from the noon day sun to the darkest of night, the object is to feed the image intensifier tube only the minimal amount of light necessary for it to do it's job, not one photon more. Too little light, and you won't get a useful image. To much light and the you'll burn out the tube.
So, no matter the time of day or night, you power the unit on with the filter mounted and the iris fully closed. Then, you SLOWLY open the filter until you get a useful image. There are no set in stone parameters here because there are many variables. Some of these variables are, the brightness of the sun, the brightness of the moon, how cloudy the sky is, haze, open field or forest setting, ambient light at night, and probably others that escape me at the moment. Experience is the best teacher here.
If a useful image cannot be obtained with the filter full opened, only then do you remove it and expose the objective lens to the elements. But keep the filter handy as conditions can change rapidly and you might need to reinstall it in a hurry, even at night.

Just remember, every single photon that enters the objective lens degrades the intensifier tube a little bit. That tube has a service life. How long that life is is directly proportional to how much light you expose it to. If I sound like I'm nagging, it's because I am. I cannot overstress how careful you need to be. As you can imagine, replacement parts are impossible to find and one screw up will destroy the tube.


Here is the objective lens with the filter removed:

I briefly touched upon it earlier but I want to elaborate. The nominal voltage supplied by the battery pack is 5V. The internal electronics then bump the voltage up to the 19kv (that's 19,000 volts!) required for the intensifier tube to operate. That amount of charge doesn't just magically dissipate instantaneously when you turn the power off. It takes time for the tube to power down. How much time? I can't tell you exactly but it's a number of minutes. What that means is, even though the power is switched off, the charged tube is still sensitive to light. So, let's say you are using the scope on a sunny day. You close the iris completely and switch it off. About 5 minutes later, someone walks up to you and asks what the hell is this thing is you're using that doesn't even have a lens on the front. You say "sure it does, let me show you" as you remove the filter to expose the objective lens. You just fried your tube brother because it's still holding a charge and light sensitive.
My advice is this. After switching the power off, wait AT LEAST 30 minutes before removing the light filter. Better yet, NEVER remove the filter unless you have a good and legitimate reason to do so. That's probably overkill but better safe than sorry. Moving on.

The objective lens you see in the picture above is just the first of a number of lenses contained in the front lens block. This block is then attached to the main body of the scope using four slotted screws. Two of those screws are visible here, on the right side:

The other two are on the left side. Notice that there is a gasket in place between the front lens block and the main body.

There are numerous other screws found on the body of the front lens block, several of which are shown in this picture:

The large screw appears to have some funk smeared on it. This is a rubbery covering intended, I assume, to act as a waterproofing agent. There are two smaller screws below the larger one but one of the two is barely visible because of the same coating. As I said, there are others as well. Just underneath the large screw is an internal ring holding a number of lenses. My guess is that this screw is used to mount them in place. The various other small screws are most likely used to properly align the internal lenses during manufacture. They probably also serve as stop pins to hold everything fast in place if the unit takes an impact.


Mounted on the left side of the front lens block is the, to quote the manual, "alignment mechanism". It's used to adjust the windage and elevation. It also houses the reticle and reticle light. We'll cover that in the next post.

 

[BWilhelm]

Alrighty, it's time to look at the "alignment mechanism". Generally speaking, most older Soviet/Russian NV designs use a standard windage/elevation mechanism that, while not actually interchangeable between the various scopes, is identical in function, adjustment, and use. All contain a glass plate inscribed with a reticle lit from above by either an incandescent bulb (older units) or an LED (newer units). All have a range drum hanging from the bottom that features a replaceable ballistic cam so that the scope can be used on a wide variety of small arms and all are windage adjustable using a screw at the front. As an example, we see below the alignment mechanisms on the PON-5 and a 1992 dated 1pn58:

While they are not interchangeable between the two units, they are functionally identical.

So, how do they work? We'll start with the light source. Mounted at the top rear of the mechanism is a plastic cover secured by four screws:

Underneath this cover is the light source for the glass reticle plate. Although I am not certain, I believe it's an LED on the PON-5 but I'm not taking this cover off to find out. I know it's an LED on the 1pn58 because that bulb simply screws in place so as to be easily replaceable in the field without the need to remove a cover.

Coming out the back of the plastic cover is an electrical wire for the lamp that goes down and disappears into the body of the scope:

The reticle lamp is controlled by a rheostat knob on the body of the scope which we'll look at later. In this way, the user can control how bright the reticle image is ranging from no reticle to super bright. This is necessary because the general image brightness varies depending on ambient light so the reticle could be washed out in some instances necessitating the need for brightness adjustment. You might be wondering why the reticle is not simply at constant maximum intensity. There are two reasons for this. First, an extremely bright reticle imposed on a dimly lit image results in unwanted blooming of the reticle. Second, too much reticle intensity is damaging to the intensifier tube. So, it is very important that the reticle intensity be adjusted so that it is just bright enough to be useful, no more.

Usually, I can get a good, clear picture of an actual reticle but I was unable to in this instance so, with apologies, I can only provide a crudely done by me drawing of what the reticle on the PON-5 looks like:

Normally, there is a drawing in the manual showing the reticle and various measurements so that it can be used for rudimentary range finding but, as this particular unit is a commercial model, the included manual is, to put it politely, a little lacking on detailed information. What I can tell you is that this reticle is rather basic compared to those used in some other Soviet NV scopes which is a clue that this was intended as more of a low light aiming sight rather than a long range use scope. I'll have more thoughts on that in a bit. Also, I should point out that the reticle is not optically centered in the image. In other words, you can actually see the reticle move left/right and up/down in the image when you are adjusting windage and elevation.

Now, let's go back to a side view of the adjustment mechanism and I'll explain how the reticle is made visible in the image when your peeper is looking into the ocular lens:

Referring to the PON-5 alignment mechanism in the photo, the bulb is lit at the top rear of the mechanism. This shines down through the glass reticle plate which is internally mounted just above where you see the silver colored pin in the body of the mechanism, projecting an image of the reticle into a prism mounted behind the small, silver, slotted screw. This prism turns the image 90 degrees towards the front of the mechanism and projects it forward until it encounters another prism mounted in the vertical tube you see located at the approximate midpoint of the mechanism. There, the image is turned 90 degrees to the side and projected into the objective lens block where it encounters yet another prism which again turns it 90 degrees into the viewer's line of sight. Get it? I hope so because that's about the best I can explain it.

There is a large, slotted screw on the bottom of the vertical cylinder at the midpoint of the mechanism:

And another at the top of that cylinder:

NEVER, EVER mess with these screws. They were put in place at the factory after one of the reticle projection prisms was installed in the cylinder and adjusted. Just LEAVE THEM ALONE. Forward of the large screw on top of the mechanism is another smaller, slotted screw. This has to do with the windage mechanism. However, it's not an adjustment screw but rather part of the assembly process and should also be left forever undisturbed.

So, that's the reticle. Next post, we'll see how windage and elevation are adjusted.

 

[BWilhelm]

Now it's time to see how we adjust windage and elevation and we'll also discuss the "ballistic cam".

We start with windage. This is adjusted using a screw at the extreme front of the alignment mechanism:

This screw is not click adjustable. In other words, it doesn't "click" from position to position. Rather, it simply turns just like a regular screw only there is some drag on it so that it stays where you put it. These is an index mark on the screw itself that you line up with one the marks on the body of the mechanism. Each mark is .5 MOA which translates to approximately .5235" at 100 yards for us Americans . When viewed from the front, turning the adjustment screw clockwise moves the reticle to the left which moves the point of impact to the right. Conversely, turning the screw counterclockwise moves the reticle to the right and the POI to the left.

As we turn the scope to look at the left side of the mechanism, we see the windage adjustment indicators in Russian:

The top marking is "LEFT", the bottom is "Right", and the letters in the middle stand for "Mean Sighting Point" a.k.a. Point of Impact. Again, the reticle is not optically centered. This means you can actually see the reticle moving right or left in your field of view as you turn the adjustment screw. That's it for windage; easy-peasy.


Now for elevation. It's almost as simple but the addition of interchangeable ballistic cams changes it up a bit.
At the bottom rear of the alignment mechanism is the elevation knob, seen here at it's lowest range setting of 300 meters:

I have to apologize here because there is glare in the photograph partially obscuring an index mark on the body of the mechanism. It'll be more visible in later pictures. There is a built in stop which prevents turning it below the "3" setting. Just to the right of the "3" is a white triangle. This mark is used for zeroing the elevation and it normally points to index marks on the splined knob. However, for reasons unknown to me, there are no such marks. Perhaps it's because this is a commercial unit? I simply don't know.
For comparison, here is the equivalent arrangement on a 1pn58 showing the index marks absent on the PON-5:

Confused yet? Don't be. It'll all make sense when we get to adjustment in a little bit.

For now though, let's assume the scope is properly zeroed and look at the earlier picture again:

So, the range setting is "3" or three hundred meters. If the target is closer, you'll just have to use some good 'ol kentucky windage. You have to remember that this was originally designed for combat use so, as long as you are aiming center mass at a man-sized target, you will get a hit at anything up to 300 meters distant when using this range setting.

Turning the knob clockwise (when viewed from beneath) it will "click" to the "4" for a target 400 meters distant:

Now we don't have as much glare and we can see the index mark on the knob lined up with a corresponding mark on the mechanism body.

Continuing on, we have a setting for 500 meters:


600 meters:


And, finally, 700 meters:

There is a built in stop which prevents turning the knob beyond the "7" setting.


Up to this point, I've been referring to "turning the knob" which is exactly what you are doing. However, the range numbers are not painted on the knob itself but rather on a separate sleeve fitted over the knob and known as the "ballistic cam". This cam can be removed and replaced with a different cam when the sight is used on a different rifle which may or may not be of a different caliber. In this way, the same sight can be used on a whole host of small arms simply by switching out the ballistic cam. Normally each cam is marked with the weapon it's designed for but there is no marking on the one fitted on this PON-5, presumably because they didn't expect the end user to own a host of different things to fit it on. In this case, the cam fitted is calibrated for 7.62x39.
To illustrate what I'm talking about, here are the ballistic cams that were included with my 1pn58:

On the far left is on marked "AKM" rifle. Even though it's not marked, that's the one currently installed on the PON-5. Moving to the right, we have the AK74 rifle(5.45x39), RPK light MG(7.62x39), RPK74 light MG(5.45x39), PK general purpose MG (7.62x54), and RPG-7 anti-tank rocket launcher. Not seen is one for the SVD (7.62x54) because it's currently fitted to the 1pn58. At the extreme right is the plastic case for the various cams. So, installing any one of these on the PON-5 would enable it's accurate use on any of the above weapons.


No matter which ballistic cam is fitted to the unit, zeroing is accomplished the same way. For that, we need to look at the bottom of the knob:

We start with the three screws in the center of the knob. If we were fitting a different cam, we would remove all three, pull the knob off it's axle, slide the existing cam off the axle, install a different cam, replace the knob and then replace the screws. If we are simply zeroing the scope, we would loosen the screws but not remove them. This allows the knob to turn while the ballistic cam remains at whatever range setting you have it set to. In practice, this would be the minimum range setting on the cam. We then fire at a target of that distance and adjust the knob accordingly while ensuring that the cam remains at the set distance. Turning the knob clockwise or "UP", moves the reticle down and the POI up. Turning the knob counterclockwise or "Down" moves the reticle up and the POI down. Normally, we would have many index marks on the knob to compare against the single index mark on the cam so that we can see just how much we've turned the knob. But, as we discussed earlier, those marks are absent from this example, so you'll just have to put some pencil marks on the knob and wing it. Once you have the elevation zeroed, tighten the screws and you're done. DON'T GO GORILLA OR YOU'LL STRIP THEM!!

So, that's the "alignment mechanism". It looks complicated but, as we've seen, it's actually pretty straight forward in use once you understand how to use it. However, I strongly recommend that you DO NOT mess with this thing other than what we've covered here. Internally, it actually IS quite complicated and finely made (by Russian standards anyway). To give you some idea of just how much stuff is rammed in there, here is a phantom drawing of it from the 1pn58 manual:

There are multiple prisms in there and a bunch of tiny bits. As you turn the windage and elevation adjustments, these prisms are minutely rotated in their mounts. These things were precision mounted at the factory and to disassemble this thing is, to be blunt, simply beyond the technical knowledge of your typical idiot such as myself. Chances are, you're just as numbskulled as I am so do yourself a favor and don't let your curiosity get the best of you or you're most likely going to break the thing.

In the next post, we'll look at the main body of the scope and discuss the power switch, reticle brightness adjustment, the battery box, and whatever esle catches my interest. See you then!

 

[JiveTurkey]

Love your write ups!