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Go back and read the original post. Most of you are drifting way out of the original intent. When the Winchester 1897 was introduced, it was black powder. Winchester(Browning) had to change the design because the early ones started coming apart. I have a 32-40 Marlin with the barrel marked "Special Smokeless Steel". This is not a rare barrel. It was actually dangerous to fire smokeless powder loaded cartridges in old black powder guns. Comparisons mean nothing when you are shooting a cartridge in a device (What else would you call it?) it was not designed for.
 
Meanwhile,back to the subject:,As rifling is fully effective at 002-003 deep ,that much reduction even in a thin shotgun barrel is not going to have any practical effect........Any shotgun barrel is a certain thickness at the muzzle end to resist denting,this is a much greater likelyhood than any blowup.
 
john.K -- Go back to the original post for the original subject. He wants to run jacketed bullets through a rifled shotgun barrel with enough force to "Make a poor mans 45/70". I assure you that the back pressure in a shot gun will do more than "Dent" the end. We used to have a "Stupid wall" of blown up, and misused guns in the repair shop. One of my favorites was a 12 gauge that looked like a banana that somebody had grasped in the middle and pulled the peel in four directions. It looked like a Daffy Duck cartoon prop. This was caused by a little mud in the end.
 
This projwct seems fraught with hazards. Do you know how to reliably tell steel from maleable cast iron? Old .410s often had receivers of the latter, and the Belgian ones, likeabe guns perfectly adequate for the ammunition for which they were proved, are more lightly built than American ones.

Button rifling requires the bore to be very closely matched - not just fairly close, but very - to the diameter of the button. .45 or .429 is far too great a discrepancy, and it is a whole lot easier to keep a button moving than to get it restarted when jammed. I use to see kits advertised on eBay, which invited you to use a short-stroke press or cakr-jack and keep stop ping to insert spacer rods. I have grave doubts about consistency of th rifling, and even whether you would ever see your button again.

You must know the bore diameter - all of it, not just either end. That requires pushing a soft lead slug through. to measure. A lot of .410s are .400 to .405, and might work with a .41 Magnum button. But even then you aren't out of the wood. Thin steel near the muzzle is liable to expand rather than take the full depth of rifling, and I can't work out whether staying expanded or springing back is liable to be worse. Then suppose the lumps, aka underlugs , are brazed or hard-soldered> That can make a local spot of steel in a quite different state of work-harening from the rest.

You should think about lining th ebarrel instead. I have seen this done very successfully on a British rook rifle, which would be very valuable indeed if it hadn't been bored out as a .410. You can buy excellent liners fro Track of the Wolf. The .25 is 7/16in/ diameter, smaller than the chamber, but the 1/2in. diameter one made for the 7.65 Luger should be fine for most .410s, and a slow-powder handload of the .32 S&W Long should make a very nice small game rifle.

It isn't an easy job, but the amateur can do it, and you should find information by searching the boards for "relining" or "bore lining". If you can find a copy of "The NRA Gunsmithing Guide Updated", it has a useful article.

G
 
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