[Hambone]

Got a nice matching K98k recently that was dufflecut, never repaired. Decided to take some pics of the progress to show ya'll my method.

Supplies:

Devcon Plastic Steel (nothing better IMHO)
1/4" brass tubing (found at most hobby/model stores)
#6-32 threaded brass rod (Home Depot)
Fiebings Leather Die (dark brown)
Chestnut Ridge Dark Brown Military Rifle Stain, Hint of Red (RS Surplus)
Drill, bit 1/8" for threaded brass rods.

 

[Hambone]

First, remember that the saw cut removes about 1/16" to 1/8" of the wood. Something has to fill that space because if you butt the pieces up next to each other the front band and bandspring wont fit, neither will the rear band. It basically will look assed up or you'll have to grind and cut on things to make it fit. Also, lining things up is IMPORTANT!

I found that the 1/4" brass tube length fits right tight in the cleaning rod channel without any drilling and a cleaning rod will pass through it. That aligns your front end and rear end and adds alot of strength. I use ONLY brass as it doesn't rust like steel and is stronger than copper. I use the threaded brass rods because they screw into the wood somewhat and provide more surface for the Devcon. I use a 1/8" bit for the rods, which are 2 1/2" in length, which allows for about a 1/8" gap in the middle and over an inch of rod in each side.

 

[Hambone]

Once the brass tube lines things up, I punch two marks for sinking the pins in the front half. I then vice the front half (I have rubber vice pads), and slooowly drill down an inch for setting the rods. I wipe the front end with white Devcon hardener (or car wax, whatever), then push it down the rod to touch the face of the main stock cut. This leaves an impression showing where the holes are on the front piece. I then punch them and drilll them out to an inch to accept the rods.

Note 1: I mark the smaller front piece first as it is thinner and you have less wood to work with than the back. Thus, you want your rods to be in the centers of the thickest sections of the front piece for the most support. MEASURE FOUR TIMES CUT ONCE.

Note 2: The main stock is viced, rubber pads, and I also put the action back in, and reassemble the bands to make sure my marks are right and everything is square.

 

[Hambone]

After making sure everything fits right, I check the fit and depth of the tubing and rods by placing them in the main stock, then pressing the front piece over it. I do a dry run assembly, and put the bands back on, and handguard to make sure all is straight and even. Remember, you must leave a gap so the bands go on properly and the bandspring fits.

Then, I mix up my Devcon and set the tubing and rods in the main stock. Devcon work time is about 30-40 minutes. Once it sets, it SETS, so make sure everything fits right and you are ready. If you notice, I filed shallow notches in the brass tube to give it "bite" in the cleaning rod channel. I also removed the rod nut so as to not accidently Devcon the threads. If Devcon gets on your threads and you screw it into that nut, game over, you'll have to cut the rod out. Also note that I punched and roughed up the face of the stock on either side.

OK, so now we wait 16 hours for the Devcon to set. Note that I assembled everything AGAIN to make sure everything lines up.

ALSO, VERY IMPORTANT: CLEAN BOTH STOCK PIECES WITH RUBBING ALCOHOL AND/OR ACETONE TO REMOVE ANY GREASE OR OILS THAT WOULD INTERFERE WITH THE DEVCON BINDING.

 

[Hambone]

Home Depot for the threaded rods. The tubing can be found at any hobby shop where folks fly RC planes, etc. BRING YOUR CLEANING ROD WITH YOU TO THE HOBBY SHOP TO MAKE SURE IT FITS INSIDE THE BRASS TUBING.

We're a little less than halfway there. I'm letting the Devcon set completely. Next step is going to be the fitting, then Devcon of the front piece to the back, and final finishing. When I repair these I like to do so such that they look correct and can be shot, just as they were before. That's why Devcon is my choice for a bedding compound for my M1As and an adhesive. In fact, I used it for alot of home applications. Great stuff to have around and nothing else comes close that I've found. Here is Devcon info:

http://www.devcon.com/devconfamilypr...d=101&catid=34

A couple notes while we wait:
1) I kept the fine sawdust from drilling to pack on top of the Devcon. Devcon dries dark grey, but will take some stain off the Fiebings, though I've found a little original wood sawdust in there helps the stain set.
2) You want the Devcon to completely cure, 16 hours at least, before adding any stain.
3) Assemble and check, assemble and check, then assemble and check again before you set anything.

 

[Hambone]

OK,
I've let the Devcon set for 24 hrs. at 75 deg.+ to cure on the rods and tubing set in the main stock. I did this because I am forcing the front piece tight and I don't want the pins or tubing pushed back as I do this. The fine fitting consists of assembling everything as it is going to go, again.

Next, I mix up my next batch of Devcon, lather up the pins and tube, the main stock side and upper piece. I then place the barrelled action in, after tapping it down real close and scraping the excess Devcon.

I then assemble everything and tap the front of the bayonet lug with a plastic hammer, forcing the upper half closer to the main stock, all the while watching the bandspring lineup, bands, barrel marks.

NOTE: I PUT A GENEROUS COATING OF CAR WAX ON ANYTHING THAT COULD REMOTELY TOUCH THE DEVCON, AS A RELEASE AGENT. MISS A SPOT AND YOU'VE GOT A DEVCON STUCK TOGETHER MESS.

I also use the sawdust from the drilling for the pin holes to press into the Devcon surface. I then reassemble everything, press it together. I also assemble the triggerguard unit and screws, torquing them exactly the way they were. My purpose is not only to assemble something that looks right, but also a rifle that can be fired as it was before the dufflecut.

Now, wait another 24 hrs. for Devcon cure. I'll probably even wait 48 hrs. before applying stain. Stain penetrates and I want full cure before applying it. Stay tuned.

 

[Hambone]

Final pics. You know, I could have sanded and smoothed what you see to make it blend....but I didn't. It's a dufflecut rifle and that's the mystique to me. That front piece is there to stay.

 

[Hambone]

Final:

 

[glock357x2]

Beautiful work and thanks for the step-by-step instructions for the readers who didn't know how these repairs were made.

 

[riflemanone]

Well done.

 

[Heirmossy]

Hambone,
That's some excellent work!! I believe that repair is as sound as any part of the stock. Thank you for the details. If I can find a nice duffle cut stock I'll try it now.

 

[fergus]

Very well done.

 

[Bill In Indiana]

Wonderful thread....especially the part about making sure things are all lined up properly!

 

[Hambone]

thanks gys, Bill. There was more gap than usual, for the reasons you gave, i.e., a thicker saw cut. It took some fitting and measuring, and marking and close observation of barrel / band wear, lug wear, etc., to match it up right. The brass tube down the rod channel allows one to slide the pieces to get the right fit, with everything together, before permanently joining. Your advice is the most important thing to be aware of in doing one of these.

 

[tjg79]

Excellent information! I now think I can do a professional looking repair. I'll stop ignoring the duffle cut auctions. Thanks for the nice presentation.

 

[Bill-Rube]

NICE!

 

[gabemojay]

Very Wel Done!!

 

[OldManKiller]

Thanks for the lesson in duffle cut repair. I have 2 Kar98a's that are duffle cut.

 

[The Great Billdildoe]

I am going to expand on this fine disertation on fixing a duffle cut stock with a small caution....

The example show by Hambone seems to have had the duffle cut made to the stock with a very thin bladed saw, maybe a hacksaw for example. This thin saw blade removes a very thin amont of wood. Essentially when cutting wood like a stock, you permanently remove the thickness of the blade from the stock.

Some GI's used hacksaws to cut the stocks, others used saws intended for cutting firewood. A duffle cut done with a thin blade will go back together well, as in the example above. A duffle cut done with a thicker bladed saw, will remove more wood. I have seen some duffle cut stocks missing almost 3/16 of an inch of wood.

If you repair a thicker cut like that, and try to butt the two pieces of stock together flush, it may set the front band back too far to look original. So expanding on what Hambone said, watch your wear patterns on the barrel from the bands carefully, and even check it against an uncut stock if need be to make sure you get the overall length just right. Discovering you put it back together too short after it is all dry and set really bites. Very nice thread on this Hambone!!

Bill ; The devil is in the detail. Hambone and I myself have been doing this for some years now. Gew98's are a good bit harder to repair than the more meaty 98k stocks.
If you noticed the majority of WW1 era duff cut gew98's exhibit some severe angle cuts ( 22.5 / 45 degree for example ). At the time of the end of the shooting war US engineers were in some major barracks and supply building construction. It's not short leap to see GI's asking these guys with mitre boxes handy to do some cuts for the sake of protability. Somewhat same for WW2. These saws as noted do take alot of meat ( kerf ).
Anyhow unless some butcher has tried to half arsed repair an old duff cut - like mating the surfaces and notching back the handguard to mate and shortening the band spring. I have encountered many rifles with frigged handguards and the like as someone was too lazy to do the repair with all considerations. I myself use a fiberglass resin to fille kerf dimensions -it fills in good , has strength and can usually be matched to general wood color well. As for the screws I use a much more coarse thread ( more akin to a sheet metal screw and use steel - brass does bend too easily ). I also imbed the screws in the forend peice first the night or more before assembly to the stock.
Anyhow if you take this serious as guys like Ham and myself...the I's are dotted and the Tee's are crossed.

 

[musketshooter]

It looks like you forgot to add a piece of wood the thickness of the saw blade. Without doing that, everything is out of spec. The method was fine except for the Devcon plastic steel. Regular expoy or glass bedding would do fine and isn't grey.