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Discussion Starter #1
What's the trick to removing the wood from a No. 4 Mk I without causing damage?

The fore-wood comes off easily but, I can't figure out how to get the rest off without possibly damaging screw heads...
 

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Not sure what you mean. The "forewood" would consist of 3 pieces...the forestock itself and 2 handguards. Other than that, there's just the butt. Use good, properly fitting hollow ground screwdriver tips. If the screws are gummed up or rusted, a good penetrating oil like Kroil should help. If they're staked, it could take a little gentle work with a punch or a Dremel tool to get them loose.

Is it the butt that you are having trouble with? If so, there's nothing to it other than fishing out the leather or felt "washer" with a bent clothes hanger or other wire, then using a very big screwdriver or ratchet with a large straight slot screwdriver bit. Again, Kroil might be a help.
 

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hey jarhead,
Thats not a photo of you in your younger days mate is it?
The LAV on mine is what i did the second time round.:D:D:D
 

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hey jarhead,
Thats not a photo of you in your younger days mate is it?
The LAV on mine is what i did the second time round.:D:D:D
ROFL! I'm getting up there, but that's my granddad...he was a Sgt with the 5th Marines on the western front in 1918. Fought at Belleau Wood and all the other bits of French real estate that 2/5 got themselves tangled up on.

That LAV looks like she's going around in circles...I keep seeing the same bush go by. :D ;)
 

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You need a big screwdriver

You need a big and long screwdriver to get the butt of.
 

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Enfield Disassembly

Trick to not stripping screw heads:

Use hollow ground screw drivers that fit the screw head properly (hollow ground screw driver blades have parallel sides) (not “V” shaped)

Dip the screwdriver blade tip in valve grinding compound, this makes the blade tip “non-slip” when removing tight screws. (Kroil is fantastic for loosening screws)

Tighten screw first to break the threads loose then counterclockwise to remove.

Download the Australian Enfield parts manual in my manual sticky, this will give you a mental picture of what you are working on (exploded views)

RTFM


Enfield Disassembly














A 3/8 drive Proto Drag Link socket and breaker bar (Big Ed’s Whammy Butt Breaker) will remove the most stubborn Butts.








RTFM

 

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rifling twist

Huh..????..that manual gives the rifling twist as one turn in 15 inches....shouldnt that be one turn in 10 inches????

Was that a deliberate error Edward????
 

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Rifling Twist or Twisted Mind

Whiterider

The majority of all normal people would assume a typo error or printing error.

You have been hanging around Dr. Beers AKA Dr. X far too long and are no longer “normal” even by Australian standards.


The correct or “normal” twist rate is one turn in 25.4 cm (10 in.)


P.S. I'm "normal" :D

 

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no wonder

the great British Empire is no longer with us...they couldnt even get their manuals right....:)

then again Edward...who are you to talk about 'normal'......
 

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then again Edward...

If you are going to publish material here that will be taken by 'newbies' as authoratitive perhaps you'd better proof read it yourself first.

A little piece of misinformation liked that twist rate sticks out like dog's [email protected]@#@@ls I'm afraid....go ahead, flame me if you like. I'm only taking issue with your attack on me for pointing it out to you...

Your apology for publishing incorrect information is however accepted.
 

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Discussion Starter #13

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That'll probably do, but one with a square shank would probably be better since you can use a wrench on it to get a bit more leverage if needed. Those Forster drivers have an awfully slim handle for getting a good grip when tackling a tight screw.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Would you have a Brand/Model/Supplier info for a better screwdriver?


If the screw head is wider than 3/8ths, I'd like to get a wider screwdriver. That butt screw is in there TIGHT.
 

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Screw driver for Stock Bolt

AMCer

Finding a proper size screw driver is as hard as finding a good running Rambler or someone who likes the looks of a Pacer. :eek:

If you use too small a screw driver the slot in the stock bolt will be damaged (Attachment # 1)

The slot in the stock bolt is just a shade under ¾ of an inch (Attachment # 2)

You need a blade approximately ¾ of an inch wide, with a blade thickness of approximately .080. My Proto 5244 drag link socket was ground down to the proper thickness (.080) and has never failed to remove any stock bolt.
 

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I'd go with Ed's suggestion if you're having a tough time. I just use the cheap (ish) 16 incher that I picked up at the local Lowe's. Never had a problem yet, but I'd be willing to bet that I will at some point.
 

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I use an old Mac 18"-er that I bought 30+ yrs ago. 1/2" sq. shank and a 5/8 wide tip. A wrench fits the shank nicely.
If it can pry a block up off of a broken motor mount, buttstock bolts are no problem! :)
 
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