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"I selected a CE 44 for $300. Laminated stock, cupped, all milled parts with a prestine bore. Once I took the russian black paint off, the bluing is 98% with virtually no pitting. Of course there were no captured screws or cleaning rod."

I took that quote from another thread to start this one.

I understood that the RC black was actually a chemical bluing rather than paint. I also seemed to get from these boards a general concensus that leaving it on both maintained the integrity of the rifle's history, and it's value consideing removing the Russian Bluing also usually entailed removing whatever was left of the Germin bluing.

So what the deal here?

1. Bluing or paint?

2. Remove or not to remove if it can be done to reveal the original german bluing?

3. If you choose to remove, how do you do it without harming the original German bluing?
 

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As far as I can tell there are both a chemical type bluing they used, which usually has a flat black appearance to it and actually a paint, which will usually be found on non critical parts such as take down disc, put plate etc. Sometimes though it is found on the reciever, and those just look real nasty. That is the type of "bluing" or paint that will more readily come off. It is often flaking off already, much like the shelac found on the stock. Most of the RC's I've seen lately have had the original stock finish on them, and only a few with shelac. There is just no way of telling what you're going to get with an RC, some I've seen lately were mostly matching, great looking stocks and original finishes on most of the parts.
 
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