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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My friend purchased a Savage 1943 from Dunham's.When I examined the rifle it was missing the extractor spring.Century sent a new one which I installed.When I slid the bolt back in the bolt head would not stay under the guides that are on the right side of the reciever.The bolt head pops out and the bolt can NOT be pulled all the way to the rear.What do you guys think is wrong?Thanks.
 

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guides

Are you sure the bolt head is "IN" the track like it should be? Are the tracks deep and sharp, or are they chipped and worn? If the latter, that is a defect that kicked a rifle out of the pool. It could be repaired, but was time extensive. There were some threads about this subject just a few days / weeks ago. If they're chipped, I'd see if I could exchange it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yes,I am sure the bolt was in the correct position,under the rails.Also,the guides are heavily chipped up and look very worn and thin.
 

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Peter

Laidler told the method for the authorized repair on the Jouster site a while back. I'll just say it is beyond the skill and tool level of most gun owners.
 

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Track is probably worn. Check the edges of the release opening. It should be an exact fit to the bolt head arm. If it is bigger pieces of it have worn off or have been broken off.
If that is the case, it will have to be welded up and re-cut. Suggest you take it back for an exchange or refund as almost no one will do that. Knew one gunsmith who used to, but no longer does.
 

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My friend purchased a Savage 1943 from Dunham's.When I examined the rifle it was missing the extractor spring.Century sent a new one which I installed.When I slid the bolt back in the bolt head would not stay under the guides that are on the right side of the reciever.The bolt head pops out and the bolt can NOT be pulled all the way to the rear.What do you guys think is wrong?Thanks.
Sometimes they'll jump the track if no magazine is inplace regardless of wear or lack of it.

I'd send it back if possible, but if not try it with a mag in place, or see if it cycles properly with a round from the magazine.

Theres a fix for this situation involving a shaped spring steel add on, but I haven't found the article on this yet.
It was used for dry cycling practice or drill by gun clubs long ago.
 

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I have a 1942 Savage with the same problem. In fact I asked about it here several months back. A little grease on the bolthead threads will keep it from jumping the rail. Obviously this is not a fix but as long as I do not rapid fire the rifle, it stays put.
As I stated back then, sharp edges were just a matter of time before they would chip and or break away.
 

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The best advice in this posting was given by Ansleyj, Suggest you take it back for an exchange or refund”.


The worst advice or statement was given by GunnerSam, “Sometimes they'll jump the track if no magazine is inplace regardless of wear or lack of it.”
(GunnerSam, your wheels will also jump off your car if you forget to tighten your lug nuts) :rolleyes:
 

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The worst advice or statement was given by GunnerSam, “Sometimes they'll jump the track if no magazine is inplace regardless of wear or lack of it.”
And you've never noticed this?
The lower surface of the bolt usually rides on the feed lips of the magazine, with no mag in the well theres little or no support to the front of the bolt as it moves forwards.
The front feed lips being bent too far downwards can have the same effect. It lets the front end of the bolt wiggle its way out of the track.

The bolthead bouncing up and hitting the edge of the cut out is what causes the track to chip away.

The only thing keeping the bolthead in the track is inertia to begin with, it takes an outside force to initiate rotation.
The outside force is the bolt wiggling as it reaches an unsupported point in its forwards travel.
 
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