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Any PTR91 fans here? Does Cetme wood fit on these. Was just checking out a new GIR version. It looks outstanding.
 

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I have a PTR-91 GIR as my shooter. It is a great piece of equipment. Accurate, extremely reliable, and one of the great Infantry Battle Rifle designs of the 20th Century as well as being the only battle rifle design still in NATO service in the 21st Century. You can still get 10 magazines for the cost of one FN-FAL mag. The aluminum magazines are much higher quality than any of the aluminum M4 magazines I was issued in the service. It slings brass but the brass can be reloaded if you find it. It is not an issue as I practice with cheap steel cased ammo.

Some of things about these rifles...

1. Roller Locks become an addiction and you will find there are lots of internet myths/misconceptions about these rifles.

2. It will be its absolute worst the moment you pull it from the box. The action will be gritty due to parkerization as well as lack of parts wear and not seem very smooth. The more you operate it, the smoother it becomes and when broken in...it is like butter in a properly set up rifle. A good upgrade is to get an HK-21 (Light Machine Gun Variant) charging handle. It is larger and gives you more grip making the action even faster to operate. It is an infantry rifle not a CQB platform. It is designed to be operated under cover without exposing the soldier like the AR platform operation can do. You can operate it in the prone without breaking your stock weld. Don't do that "HK slap" either. Not only can it cause damage but it takes longer...just use your thumb to unlock it as you reestablish your grip.

3. You must check your bolt gap before break in to ensure it is within tolerances. It should break in within 300 rounds and will be broken in once that gap settles. Once broken in the bolt gap will not change. We had MP-5's in the US Army with 60,000 rounds thru them with the original barrel and steady bolt gap since break in. They last forever and run like sewing machines.

4. Zero the rifle at 30 meters (33 yards) on the 200 meter aperture. Do this and the sight will be ballistically aligned to M80 ball ammunition. They tend to like the lighter 7.62mm bullets (~150 grain) for accuracy and eat cheap steel cased ammo like they enjoy it. There is no gas system to adjust and they can run suppressed easily. Change the locking piece to a 36 degree IIRC to run suppressed. The 36 degree will run unsuppressed too.

My rifle with different stocks. I really like the wood, it handles the heat well and has a SturmGewehr look, LOL.

Wood Furniture.jpg MyriflePTR91.jpg


The front hand guard on the CETME is the same length and will fit. The CETME is screwed into the place while the G3 has a quick take down pin. You must drill out the screw on the CETME but many owners have done it. It looks nice.

The HK front hand guard attachment:

Handguard Wood Right Side.jpg

Head over to HKproforums, there is a wealth of knowledge and guys are very helpful.

Here is a copy of US Army testing:

View attachment USA_test_HKRifles.pdf
 

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Nice!
 

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Wood really looks classy on these
it does, but you have to have a long reach in order to hold the handguard. that's the main reason why I bought the wide handguard stock set as soon as I bought the HK, and chucked the plastic skinny handguard that original came on mine.
 

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Wood really looks classy on these
And it does not have the heat problems the thin plastic hand-guards exhibit especially the unshielded export variants. Even the Bundeswehr thin hand guards with aluminum heat shields can get uncomfortable in time. The wood is fantastic and you really have to work at it to get the weapon hot enough with the wood to need gloves. The wide handguard offers the best heat protection available as it also insulates the trunnion.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I picked one up and so far I am nothing but impressed with it. Only about 180 through it so far but real nice accuracy at 100yds with irons. I tried to fit a Cetme wood HG to it but I think its warped.
 

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140 to 168 gr ammo is best for the G3 series. Heavier and the bolt may unlock before clearing, not a good thing.

DG
 

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The G3 series will shoot any .308 ammo safely. It wasn’t the ammo causing your issue.
 

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Great read.

My PTR-91 is due in next Thursday :)

Does anybody know who has the wide handguards in stock? No stock at RTG, Atlantic, Midway, and Apex
 

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Does anybody know who has the wide handguards in stock? No stock at RTG, Atlantic, Midway, and Apex
that is going to be impossible to find from retailers. you might luck out and find one on auction sites ie.GUNBROKER, EBAY, AUCTION ARMS ETC... good luck, and dig deep in your wallet because they are probably not going to be anywhere close to reasonably priced
 

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that is going to be impossible to find from retailers. you might luck out and find one on auction sites ie.GUNBROKER, EBAY, AUCTION ARMS ETC... good luck, and dig deep in your wallet because they are probably not going to be anywhere close to reasonably priced
I wound up ordering a surplus G3 wood set from Northridge. Was not cheap.. Trigger Assy is going out to Bill Springfield this week.

There are a lot of things about this rifle that are unusual, and esp. the ergos. But it points well and I imagine it will turn into a good/fun shooter for me. Being able to handle steel cased ammo is a big plus.
 

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I wound up ordering a surplus G3 wood set from Northridge. Was not cheap.. Trigger Assy is going out to Bill Springfield this week.

There are a lot of things about this rifle that are unusual, and esp. the ergos. But it points well and I imagine it will turn into a good/fun shooter for me. Being able to handle steel cased ammo is a big plus.
Yep. If you run it like HK intended instead of like it is an AR with the controls in the wrong place you will find it works very well. It is an Infantry rifle. It designed to be used in an Infantry combat environment and worked from the prone position, kneeling, or standing equally well. You do not have to break cover or risk exposing yourself to work the rifle either.

An AR on the other hand has horrible ergos for an infantry rifle. In my combat tours, in the prone, you had to pay attention not to flag yourself or break cover if you had to charge your M4. A double feed or bolt over-ride could put you out of the fight for a very uncomfortably long period of time. The BHO on the M4 worked well when it worked. All in all, it is overrated and requires a higher level of training to be effective which is why it most European Armies avoided them. When it did not work, it tended to throw a monkey wrench resulting in much longer reload times.

If the PTR/G3 rifle stops working you do the exact same thing each time and every-time.

Lock the bolt to the rear, THEN remove the magazine, Insert the fresh one, and use your thumb to unlock the action as your hand slides up the hand-guard to return to your firing position. That is right out of the Operators Manual, relieves tension on the magazine making reloads faster, and much more efficient.

There is no need to diagnosis a malfunction to determine what is the correct course of action. Lock the bolt to the rear, THEN remove the magazine, Insert the fresh one, and use your thumb to unlock the action as your hand slides up the fore-stock to return to your firing position is the corrective action for any malfunction the rifle can experience. It is JOE proof.

This guys manual of arms is pretty good:

https://youtu.be/R8f2eq7ngzM?t=263


I would also recommend the extended charging handle. It gives you more leverage which is useful when the rifle is new. Make sure you grip the charging handle palm up like a machine gun

https://www.robertrtg.com/store/pc/EXTENDED-HK21E-STYLE-COCKING-HANDLE-FOR-G3-91-PTR-93-33-53-p6394.htm
 

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^^Very interesting, good read.

I did get the extended charging handle, thank you for the advice. I just rec'd the wood furniture from Northridge today. Is there supposed to be a metal spacer inside the wooden handguard, riding between the wood and the barrel (like the G3 Wide Handguard has)?
 
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