Since my eyes are deteriorating (59 y/o) for using 98K iron sights, within the past few years I came across some rifles that were conducive to retrofitting to a military style rifle (ex. bubba sporter) and using the d&t set up to make a pseudo sniper. I have a byf matching that carries a 4X Weaver with bent bolt handle and put back into a 98K stock and bands, I also took a 98K yugo rework and put high leupold mts 2 piece with a Weaver 4x scope on it, it did not require bolt bending( the Yugo was totally scrubbed, rebarreled, and was marked Preduce 44), my last one is a Classic Arms, LSR with Ruski replica scope 4X with triple post reticle built on an RC bcd 43 with minty bore. I'm like Solman and shoot alot, These rifles have given me a lot of enjoyment for a reasonable amount of money. I can't see dropping $12,500 for an original just to bust caps. Foxmanmt ( I am trying to upload a pic of mine, we'll see what happens, my pics are usually to massive) Anyway.....if you have a rescued 98K whick now doubles as a pseudo sniper, post it here, its always interesting to see whats out there. Foxmanmt
Pseudo snipers- what have you got, post photos.
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I have two. i went to the ackley chambering for sheer power after hitting a 600 LB bear in idaho with a 7mm mag SQUARE. and he kept going.
#1. action is from a five digit dot44 (45 made) that was bubbed into a hunting rifle. barrel is from a rc ce44, bore mint. somthing wrong in the chamber, kept getting blow back and cracked cases. so i up chamberd to ackley.
zatsava all steel 'quick detach' scope mounts. leopold 40mm objective, 3x9 power scope with bullet drop compensator. boyd stock with brass inlays. timney trigger. ANYTHING walking in the lower 48 goes down. 200gr bullet and up to 53gr of varget powder. one ragged hole in target up to 200 meters.
Notes. with the cheep short side rails repo mounts out now the zatsavas are spendy. but all steel. no marring as you get with aluminim. and my go to for fake high turrents with modern scope. heavy but durable and keeps perfect zero with the quick detach.
Two. action is a bcd43 i got with a pinched barrel. (see 'mauser cigerette lighter') i used for testing. it shot the filppen pinch right out of the barrel. see the video! on you tube. blew the rifle right thru the back stop. i figured if its that strong im keeping it!
barrel is from a chezh 'persian' 29 inch barrel with the 'thick' lands.(chezh persians come in different lands, and how they attach the front sight) AS NEW. isreali 'junk' stock glass bedded. timney trigger. bipod. 6x24 power illuminated mil dot recticle, side focus adjust, boyd saftey. MOA out to 300 yards. easy. hits like a truck. all bullet weights from 125 to 220gr. the only issue is when i shoot 220gr hot it automaticly extends the bipod from recoil.
the cartrages shown are
7.62x54r,8x57AP/Tracer, and 8mm/06 ackley improved.
#1. action is from a five digit dot44 (45 made) that was bubbed into a hunting rifle. barrel is from a rc ce44, bore mint. somthing wrong in the chamber, kept getting blow back and cracked cases. so i up chamberd to ackley.
zatsava all steel 'quick detach' scope mounts. leopold 40mm objective, 3x9 power scope with bullet drop compensator. boyd stock with brass inlays. timney trigger. ANYTHING walking in the lower 48 goes down. 200gr bullet and up to 53gr of varget powder. one ragged hole in target up to 200 meters.
Notes. with the cheep short side rails repo mounts out now the zatsavas are spendy. but all steel. no marring as you get with aluminim. and my go to for fake high turrents with modern scope. heavy but durable and keeps perfect zero with the quick detach.
Two. action is a bcd43 i got with a pinched barrel. (see 'mauser cigerette lighter') i used for testing. it shot the filppen pinch right out of the barrel. see the video! on you tube. blew the rifle right thru the back stop. i figured if its that strong im keeping it!
barrel is from a chezh 'persian' 29 inch barrel with the 'thick' lands.(chezh persians come in different lands, and how they attach the front sight) AS NEW. isreali 'junk' stock glass bedded. timney trigger. bipod. 6x24 power illuminated mil dot recticle, side focus adjust, boyd saftey. MOA out to 300 yards. easy. hits like a truck. all bullet weights from 125 to 220gr. the only issue is when i shoot 220gr hot it automaticly extends the bipod from recoil.
the cartrages shown are
7.62x54r,8x57AP/Tracer, and 8mm/06 ackley improved.
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Oswego, Yours is much like my own, the Weaver looks good on there, you have made SOMETHING out of very little, and you can shoot the crap out of it, NICE RIG...I would buy it in a hearbeat..thanks for contributing to the thread. Foxmanmt
My purpose is starting this thread was to introduce an idea of shooting and enjoying a rifle that needs rescued but not a pure collector item, for minimal dollars it can be turned into a functional hunting rifle utilizing the98K platform. There are thousands of d&t 98K receivers out there with various stocks. They will never be $12000 rigs, but for $450 you have an accurate, usable, rifle, that is fun to handle and shoot if you are a 98K fan. Put on a Weaver K4 and a 98K stock and a repro sling, I guarantee when you hit the deer or elk woods, you my friend will have a conversation piece. Best regards Foxmanmt So guys...post your version of the pseudo sniper, we already have a couple of wonderful examples.
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I have a RC k98 with an SSR type 3 from accumounts with an old Weaver k4 mounted on it.
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Here's some pics of a rescued CE 44/SSR project. Original barreled action with matching bolt and trigger guard that someone had put into a home made stock fashioned from a... fence post. It was "bedded"' into this creation with thick tan paint and customized with high vis red painted sights. The "stock" was split at the rear and the front of the rifle would lift right up out of it. The guy who created and fired it in this configuration was one brave dude. My friend started the snipering of it but lost interest. I found the original CE duffle cut stock and sourced all of the other parts and pieces. The winter trigger came out of Norway. Probably as close to a German sniper as I'll ever get. I should have taken some "before" pics but I needed that "original" stock to fix my fence after the last wind storm!
http://s979.photobucket.com/albums/ae280/greendevil41/CE 44 SSR/
http://s979.photobucket.com/albums/ae280/greendevil41/CE 44 SSR/
Greendevil41............I am absolutely impressed with your endeavor, quite remarkable example. Foxmanmt Here again making something interesting and cool out of a non collectable bubbafied rifle. If you want to take it a step further, cover your German WWII helmet with tin foil and spray paint it orange, then go hunting...scary!!!!lol
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1944 byf RC, SSR replica, 6X Olgee Berlin luxor prewar scope. It was speading them around a bit so I wrapped the barrel near the front band Soviet style, before I had the information on typical stock fitting for the K98. Like the LSR, I bought it after the mount was added. See before and after. It has some shooter potential. Aim point is the bottom of the diamond.
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AR42 zf41 RC which came in with zf41 base. Added 42 ar cartouched ZF41 stock. Real zf41 scope which is cloudy and original mount. Scope is not zeroed. Also show some serious promise even with a lousy 1.5X scope.
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On the SSR, I just wrapped the barrel under the front band with high temp non-porious gasket material. You may be able to see a wrap on the LSR that was just 180 degrees on the bottom of the barrel. It did make it a little more consistent but it still will throw one flyer in 5 shots, as you can pretty much see. I have tried the recommended procedure for these but is still getting a little front band pressure on both rifles. They need more gringing on the inside to free them up. Then I will get them out for another try. I might should have left the SSR alone with the wrap. The AR42 has had no mods so far.
That PEM scope has seen some action. Apparently it was on a K98 long ago, and the hammer/cycle have been ground. They removed the recoil ring as well. The lenses have some scratches, but optics are still good. The ZF replica that came on the rifle when I got it died on outting number 3.
Like you, my 58 y.o. eyes pretty much need a scope but everytime I have used open sights in the last few years, if the rifle was a good one, somehow I produced some pretty good groups. It is hard to understand when you can just not see the three things all at the same time, the front and rear sights plus the target, that often you hit what you are aiming at.
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I've had better luck by free-floating K98s than by shimming/wrapping the barrels. The opposite is true for my longer Mausers and 91/30s. The SSR posted above was a nightmare, to start with. The barrel was close enough to touching the stock/bayo lug that, when it got hot, it would make contact and throw 3-5 inch groups. When it was cold, it was MOA, or better.
I just came back in from a 300 yard test (to mark my elevation) and it shot great. This was with Yugo M75, fired from a front rest and rear bag. I've discovered that the amount of pressure on the stock makes a huge difference. I have my best luck (with a lot of guns, including this one), by pulling to my shoulder with the trigger hand, only, at the wrist of the stock. When I start to muscle the stock into the rest, with the support hand, I get flyers (in this case, wide to the right). So, I only use my support hand, lightly, to keep a handle on the jump, after the break.
Sighters on milk jugs (aiming for the oval indentations):
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Three shot group on paper. You can see that pulling the forend down into the rest will throw flyers.
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John
I just came back in from a 300 yard test (to mark my elevation) and it shot great. This was with Yugo M75, fired from a front rest and rear bag. I've discovered that the amount of pressure on the stock makes a huge difference. I have my best luck (with a lot of guns, including this one), by pulling to my shoulder with the trigger hand, only, at the wrist of the stock. When I start to muscle the stock into the rest, with the support hand, I get flyers (in this case, wide to the right). So, I only use my support hand, lightly, to keep a handle on the jump, after the break.
Sighters on milk jugs (aiming for the oval indentations):
Three shot group on paper. You can see that pulling the forend down into the rest will throw flyers.
John
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John, I think you are saying that you only use your trigger hand at the wrist and nothing on the front, Right? If so, that is what I do and I rest the stock in the same spot on each shot.
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Actually, no. I still use my left hand on the forend (I shoot right handed), but I'm not putting any pressure on, or pulling, the stock with it. With the higher recoiling guns, it's easy to want to pull the forend down into the rest, to help maintain the sight picture. This seems to flex the stock/barrel/action, so I don't do it (or, at least, I'm trying to make a conscious effort not to). Pulling back at the wrist is just as effective, so long as you have it shouldered properly with a firm grip at the wrist. I also like to shoot with the thumb of my trigger hand up on or near the tang. More difficult with some guns, with the bolt/cocking piece being in the way, but with my M1A, for example, I'm almost pushing on the back of the receiver's heal. This helps counteract the muzzle climb without putting stress on the stock.
John
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