Gunboards Forums banner
21 - 35 of 35 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
287 Posts
If it's Cast Iron; pretend it's a Dutch Oven.
Lightly scrub off surface Rust with Soap & Hot Water, dry in a warm oven, then get it hot in the oven & coat lightly with Paraffin Wax.
Many a wife in the south would cover you with boiling rice/grits for fouling their oven with that method. Now, if you have a self cleaning oven and your dealing with solid shot, there would be no need for Parafin.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
3,532 Posts
Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Many a wife in the south would cover you with boiling rice/grits for fouling their oven with that method. Now, if you have a self cleaning oven and your dealing with solid shot, there would be no need for Parafin.
That is only if she finds out what I have done to the oven! Of course the last time i fooled with the kitchen was when I was soaking gun parts in oil, ……. In her cooking pots! As they say “that did not end well”!
 

· Registered
Joined
·
3,532 Posts
Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Ok you chaps have developed one hell of a weight loss program. Sent the wife a text saying “Ok, so the guys on gun boards say to cook the solid shot cannonballs in the oven. When is the best time?”

I am now 10 inches shorter because she just ripped my head off and need cushions on the chairs because I have no ass left!

Thanks!,
 

· Registered
Joined
·
4,207 Posts
Lost me at that curve?
I have seen a lot of old tools that were BLO treated. And forged beat traps. Real collector iron that have had much value lost with that old crap coating. it is OK for coating junk that has no value now and never will be worth anything in the future. BLO is not for objects of any merit. There was another treatment with some rust converter that could be painted on. Similar look, more damaging than BLO.

The most difficult thing for many to do it is "LEAVE OLD STUFF ALONE" . Just becasue it is "not a gun" should not open up the floodgates of bubba-restoration options.
 

· Gold Bullet Member and Noted Curmudgeon
Joined
·
101,507 Posts
I have seen a lot of old tools that were BLO treated. And forged beat traps. Real collector iron that have had much value lost with that old crap coating. it is OK for coating junk that has no value now and never will be worth anything in the future. BLO is not for objects of any merit. There was another treatment with some rust converter that could be painted on. Similar look, more damaging than BLO.

The most difficult thing for many to do it is "LEAVE OLD STUFF ALONE" . Just becasue it is "not a gun" should not open up the floodgates of bubba-restoration options.
Find myself disagreeing. BLO may not be the best possible treatment for metal objects, but it is what Fabrique Nationale d'Armes de Guerre used on the stock of my Superposed - and that is surely an object of merit...

I am unwilling to oven-roast (or otherwise subject to heat) projectiles UNLESS i am certain they aren't explosive-loaded.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
4,207 Posts
Agreed. BLO is wonderful, good and proper for wood. It was the original finish on many rifles and very nice in that it can be reapplied without running a risk of getting called a refinish or a restoration.

My Belgium Browning shotgun came with a very glossy hard finish that really did not appeal to me. Had they used BLO, I expect, I would have been happy. Eventually, l stripped it off and hand rubber on an oil. Probably killed the resale. Anyone lives long enough, he will regret some improvements made to his guns. Then they call us Bubba :) I guess that makes me a reformed bubba.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
287 Posts
That is only if she finds out what I have done to the oven! Of course the last time i fooled with the kitchen was when I was soaking gun parts in oil, ……. In her cooking pots! As they say “that did not end well”!
Trust me, if that parafin wax ignites, resulting in sooty smoke and waxy smell SHE WILL KNOW, no matter how hard you try to air out and clean the kitchen.
 

· Gold Bullet Member and Noted Curmudgeon
Joined
·
101,507 Posts
Agreed. BLO is wonderful, good and proper for wood. It was the original finish on many rifles and very nice in that it can be reapplied without running a risk of getting called a refinish or a restoration.

My Belgium Browning shotgun came with a very glossy hard finish that really did not appeal to me. Had they used BLO, I expect, I would have been happy. Eventually, l stripped it off and hand rubber on an oil. Probably killed the resale. Anyone lives long enough, he will regret some improvements made to his guns. Then they call us Bubba :) I guess that makes me a reformed bubba.
Probably French Polished, which is hard, shiny, and uses BLO and a LOT of rubbing with real thin coats.

Oh - apparently USN, in the days of wooden ships, iron men and cannon balls propelled by sacred black from muzzle-loading guns (and carronades...), used shiny black paint to preserve cannon balls. And the guns themselves. Oil-based paint, not sure of the pigment
 

· Registered
Joined
·
5,830 Posts
One of the metal detecting guys om u-tube pulls the fuzes and unloads them. Then boils them in wax. When cool he rebuffs them to get more wax off. I believe he sells them after all that. May not be High explosive rounds. Seems he digs them up from creek beds and from streams. When he goes metal detecting. And uses metal detecting machine and a fairly strong magnet on a long rope. It goes without saying that all operations like defuzing, removal of the shell's explosives, should be done outside. He also uses a turkey fryer with melted parrafin wax also outside. Frank
 

· Gold Bullet Member and Noted Curmudgeon
Joined
·
101,507 Posts
One of the metal detecting guys om u-tube pulls the fuzes and unloads them. Then boils them in wax. When cool he rebuffs them to get more wax off. I believe he sells them after all that. May not be High explosive rounds. Seems yp dig them up from creek beds and from streams. Frank
If cannon balls (shells, they called them in the day), explosive filling was Sacred Black. What the charge was doesn't matter that much as long as it is removed before cleaning. One of the methods of rendering UXB safe during WWII was to use steam to liquify TNT so it would run out of the bomb. Actually, earlier cylindro-concoidal shells (up until c.WWI) used BP for the explosive charge. Then picric acid was discovered to work, though it also turned out to have some problems in general use. Among them (after a period in storage) reacting with the steel or iron of the shell body to form picrates that were extremely sensitive. I wouldn't want to molest a century+ old picric acid-filled shell myself.
 
21 - 35 of 35 Posts
Top