Gunboards Forums banner

1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
541 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I picked this up for $80 . Seems to be a WSC naval contract blade that got a service stamp in 43. Obviously it has been neglected . Any tips on getting it back to better shape?

3825919

3825920
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,973 Posts
Not much to do. You do not want to remove the finish as the "Admiralty Contract" bayonets are supposed to be black oxide finished.
Soak it in oil and see what comes off on the rag. The markings are already weak and you don't want to lose any of those either.
Are the grips OK? They should be heavily oiled already with a slightly 'beefier' feel to them too.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
541 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Not much to do. You do not want to remove the finish as the "Admiralty Contract" bayonets are supposed to be black oxide finished.
Soak it in oil and see what comes off on the rag. The markings are already weak and you don't want to lose any of those either.
Are the grips OK? They should be heavily oiled already with a slightly 'beefier' feel to them too.
3825937
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,973 Posts
It's a WW2/Korea era veteran.
IMO, a candidate for preservation and not restoration. If it were mine, I wouldn't attempt to remove the screws or grips yet. The edges are pretty much sealed in position at this point.
I would start mild. Remove the beginnings of rust and storage crud since I don't collect dirt. (Well, aside from a couple of vials. Gallipoli sand and infield dirt from the 2016 Cubs World Series etc.)
Mild stuff. Work around the screws with Hoppes 9 and toothpicks. Maybe careful use of a dental pick on the solid parts. Pipe cleaners/soft brush in the clearance hole and T slot. Again in the corners of the crosspiece. Followed up by something like Breakfree or similar. If you have Balistol, use it.
Cut the crud on the blade and pommel with similar and burlap.
Wash it down with mineral spirits including the wood. Wipedowns and drying with tericloth watching the progression.
A good preservative oil on the steel with wipedowns. More mineral spirits on the wood until the grain begins...begins to show. Then go with a linseed oil of 50/50 dilution over the course of several days. Wet,wait wipe, dry. Buff and repeat.

The steel will look good and the grips should come back with a deep reddish hue.
Here comes the buzzwords:
Preservation with no restoration.
Patience instead of power.
Proper and presentable vs polished and pretty.

That applies to this one. The next one....???
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
541 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
It's a WW2/Korea era veteran.
IMO, a candidate for preservation and not restoration. If it were mine, I wouldn't attempt to remove the screws or grips yet. The edges are pretty much sealed in position at this point.
I would start mild. Remove the beginnings of rust and storage crud since I don't collect dirt. (Well, aside from a couple of vials. Gallipoli sand and infield dirt from the 2016 Cubs World Series etc.)
Mild stuff. Work around the screws with Hoppes 9 and toothpicks. Maybe careful use of a dental pick on the solid parts. Pipe cleaners/soft brush in the clearance hole and T slot. Again in the corners of the crosspiece. Followed up by something like Breakfree or similar. If you have Balistol, use it.
Cut the crud on the blade and pommel with similar and burlap.
Wash it down with mineral spirits including the wood. Wipedowns and drying with tericloth watching the progression.
A good preservative oil on the steel with wipedowns. More mineral spirits on the wood until the grain begins...begins to show. Then go with a linseed oil of 50/50 dilution over the course of several days. Wet,wait wipe, dry. Buff and repeat.

The steel will look good and the grips should come back with a deep reddish hue.
Here comes the buzzwords:
Preservation with no restoration.
Patience instead of power.
Proper and presentable vs polished and pretty.

That applies to this one. The next one....???
Thanks! Will go slow, yes , I too discovered the magic of ballistol. Got the blade for my 43 dispersal No1.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,973 Posts
Thanks! Will go slow, yes , I too discovered the magic of ballistol. Got the blade for my 43 dispersal No1.
This blade? No reason not to put it on a dispersal. Looks better on a navy Lanchester though. hint
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
541 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
This blade? No reason not to put it on a dispersal. Looks better on a navy Lanchester though. hint
Lanchester , i never heard of it before now , and just googled it. Interesting history. Since it was used through the 70s, did they ever make it to the civilian market in semi auto form?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,973 Posts
Lanchester , i never heard of it before now , and just googled it. Interesting history. Since it was used through the 70s, did they ever make it to the civilian market in semi auto form?
I'm not aware of any. At least not as far as a commercial venture anyway.
Thinking....in the US the barrel would need to be extended quite a way. Making a bayonet pretty much useless if mounted in typical fashion.
Economically speaking, match the WSC to the dispersal and strap on an RAF sling for a 'period correct' looking presentation.
Or, there is always the dummy gun route. Surplus parts kit on a non functional receiver.
That, and/or going all the way with the NFA class lll license? That would be a cool bayonet display stand!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
541 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
So multiple wipes with ballistol and mineral spirits allowed me to take the grips off. Question on the handle. Is it supposed to be like that, zinc like , rough? My 42 MA blade is blued. I didn’t do any rough scrubbing , so this was the metal as I got it.

Also, this Milsurps thread suggests that the 40s WSC made 1907s were not only for the Navy. Naval Contract Lanchester/1907 bayonets???

3827467
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,973 Posts
The Admiralty Contract was the excuse to produce so to speak. Intent and disposition aren't always in agreement. Especially in wartime.
That "zinc like" finish is the surface prep of the steel. Blasted vs polished. It was originally dark but that was a long time ago.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
541 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
The Admiralty Contract was the excuse to produce so to speak. Intent and disposition aren't always in agreement. Especially in wartime.
Yea, I'm telling myself that since it's a pairing for my 43 dispersal No1.

Now, on the finish. Did the handle metal get stripped or something? Shouldn't it have been blued, or oil blackened?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,973 Posts
Yea, I'm telling myself that since it's a pairing for my 43 dispersal No1.

Now, on the finish. Did the handle metal get stripped or something? Shouldn't it have been blued, or oil blackened?
Forum was down for maintenance when I first tried to add the metal question.
Look up ^^^
Must've been editing as you were posting?
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Top