Gunboards Forums banner

1 - 20 of 30 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am 59 and a so called gun nut since I was about 9 years old but just now got my first cap and ball !
I bought a Pietta New Model Army Sheriff from Cabellas.

I have not even shot it yet ,the trigger pull felt all right as far as weight went(between 3 1/2 to 4 1/4 as measured with my cheaply gauge but had a lot of jumpy creep in it and did not feel smooth at all when cocking it.
I watched a video on YouTube by a guy by the name of Blackie Thomas that showed how to tune the Remington Old Army.and did as he advised and now the pull is about 3 1/4 of smooth pull all the creep is gone and cocking the pistol is smooth as well.
Going to shoot Hornady .454 balls,Remington #10 caps ,Goex Olde Eyensford about 25-30 grains of powder using an under ball lubricated wad or a lube cookie , 50/50 beeswax and Crisco to start with,with my main purpose of just plinking and having fun !

I have read that a 3/16 but driver works great as a nipple wrench
Will that fit in the Remington or will I need to grind the outside diameter of the driver for it to work with the Remington?

On a slightly different note I logged in on my phone but really find it easier to use my laptops bigger screen, and I changed my password but do not seem to be able to login to the site using my laptop.
Do I need to log off of my phone and then try with my laptop or ?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
733 Posts
I don't own one of these but from experience the outside diameter of the nut driver is probably too big. I think the OD will need to be reduced. I am going on the fact that my ROA clearance between the nipple and recess is very tight. Hope this works for you. You will love your new Cap And Ball revolver!
 

·
Platinum Bullet member
Joined
·
20,509 Posts
Stick to either felt or TP wads between ball & powder. The grease cookies are a fun idea, but they coat the frame & barrel with excess grease that catches & holds more powder residue, accelerating fouling. If you make your own felt wads, or lube new ones, use very little lube, since an excess amount will squeeze out when you seat the ball & foul the powder. I use a TP square with a TINY dab of tallow/beeswax patch lube folded up inside. It works great and keeps fouling build-up to a minimum.
Expect your brand new Sheriff's model to shoot really low, so bring some stout cardstock and a file along to the range. Punch the front sight thru the card stock so you won't damage the finish on the barrel when you get clumsy filing the sight.

I use 23 gr. 3F with a paper wad between ball & powder. I've found this to be an amazingly accurate load for target punching. Sight it in at 25 yards.

Buy a good quality nipple wrench, since factory nipples tend to be installed TIGHT. remove them all when you get the gun, and clean up all the grease and metal shavings. Measure the nipples for uniformity. Used to be, they'd vary in diameter & sometimes in length.

www.jedediah-starr.com has good nipple wrenches, and also sells Treso Ampco nipples. They fit #11 caps. If you plan on shooting a lot, the Ampco nipples are the best money can buy.

Also, don't dry fire or drop the hammer on an uncapped nipple.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
800 Posts
Welcome to the forum and to the wonderful world of C & B revolvers. Sounds like you are off and running-let us know how it shoots. Keep your eye open for a period replica holster. :thumbsup:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Stick to either felt or TP wads between ball & powder. The grease cookies are a fun idea, but they coat the frame & barrel with excess grease that catches & holds more powder residue, accelerating fouling. If you make your own felt wads, or lube new ones, use very little lube, since an excess amount will squeeze out when you seat the ball & foul the powder. I use a TP square with a TINY dab of tallow/beeswax patch lube folded up inside. It works great and keeps fouling build-up to a minimum.
Expect your brand new Sheriff's model to shoot really low, so bring some stout cardstock and a file along to the range. Punch the front sight thru the card stock so you won't damage the finish on the barrel when you get clumsy filing the sight.

I use 23 gr. 3F with a paper wad between ball & powder. I've found this to be an amazingly accurate load for target punching. Sight it in at 25 yards.

Buy a good quality nipple wrench, since factory nipples tend to be installed TIGHT. remove them all when you get the gun, and clean up all the grease and metal shavings. Measure the nipples for uniformity. Used to be, they'd vary in diameter & sometimes in length.

www.jedediah-starr.com has good nipple wrenches, and also sells Treso Ampco nipples. They fit #11 caps. If you plan on shooting a lot, the Ampco nipples are the best money can buy.

Also, don't dry fire or drop the hammer on an uncapped nipple.
Thanks for the tips
Let me make sure I understand what you are saying

You do not use a wad behind your ball ,you only use a small dab of lube of lube folded up inside some toilet paper over your powder and behind your ball?

With less space being used in the cylinder hole and using a 23 grain load ,is there any issue using the short loading lever of the Sheriffs model there is no issue
Getting the ball seated fully?

Do you have any issues with chainfires without a tighter fitting wad ?

Without having a lot of lube coming out of the cylinder does the cylinder still stay lubed enough to rotate easily after 30 or forty shots?

I would appreciate it if you would post a Pic of the toilet paper you use and the size of lube that you fold up inside of it if you don't mind.

Thank you much
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I don't own one of these but from experience the outside diameter of the nut driver is probably too big. I think the OD will need to be reduced. I am going on the fact that my ROA clearance between the nipple and recess is very tight. Hope this works for you. You will love your new Cap And Ball revolver!
Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Welcome to the forum and to the wonderful world of C & B revolvers. Sounds like you are off and running-let us know how it shoots. Keep your eye open for a period replica holster. :thumbsup:
Thanks for the Welcome

Probably a Slim Jim type of holster ,Crossdraw ,with a hammer loop .
I am going to make it out of 8-10 ounce Veg Tanned leather.
Trying to decide whether to Hand sew it or use brass rivets.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
668 Posts
Quote "I have read that a 3/16 nut driver works great as a nipple wrench"

Quote by AZshooter "Buy a good quality nipple wrench, since factory nipples tend to be installed TIGHT"

I have never seen any one use a nut driver as a nipple wrench, even if it did fit..I have seen home made ones that seem to work O.K.
Get a good one like AZshooter said..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Quote "I have read that a 3/16 nut driver works great as a nipple wrench"

Quote by AZshooter "Buy a good quality nipple wrench, since factory nipples tend to be installed TIGHT"

I have never seen any one use a nut driver as a nipple wrench, even if it did fit..I have seen home made ones that seem to work O.K.
Get a good one like AZshooter said..
Thanks for your input
I think I am going to make one from a socket using a Dremel and file,then put it on a 1/4 inch ratchet wrench.
That should take care of bout the most stubborn of nipples !!
 

·
Platinum Bullet member
Joined
·
20,509 Posts
Thanks for the tips
Let me make sure I understand what you are saying

You do not use a wad behind your ball ,you only use a small dab of lube of lube folded up inside some toilet paper over your powder and behind your ball?

With less space being used in the cylinder hole and using a 23 grain load ,is there any issue using the short loading lever of the Sheriffs model there is no issue
Getting the ball seated fully?

Do you have any issues with chainfires without a tighter fitting wad ?

Without having a lot of lube coming out of the cylinder does the cylinder still stay lubed enough to rotate easily after 30 or forty shots?

I would appreciate it if you would post a Pic of the toilet paper you use and the size of lube that you fold up inside of it if you don't mind.

Thank you much
Actually, I use a half square of TP. Fold a piece of TP in half and cut it into 2 pieces; they will be rectangular, but when you fold each piece, it will form a square.
Place a 1/2 square of double ply toiletpaper on the table. Put a dab of bullet lube in the middle of the TP - about the size of a kernel of unpopped popcorn. Pick up all 4 corners of the TP so that the 4 corners touch, then twist. You'll end up with a teardrop shaped wad. Place the pointed end of the teardrop down into the cylinder, over the powder , then push it in flush to the cylinder face. Place a ball over it & seat. The Pointed end of the teardrop is all paper & the lube is at the "fat end". This is important, because when you seat the ball, the paper compresses against the powder & prevents the bullet lube from getting into the powder.
The problem with bullet lubes and even lubed wads is that when fired, the excess lube gets all over the frame & cylinder face, where it attracts a lot of powder residue. It's the residue that impedes the cylinder turning & the gun cycling, not lack of lube.

If you get a ring of lead after you seat your bullet, the chamber is completely sealed, just like a cork in a bottle - there's no way fire will get past to cause a chainfire. Chainfires result from poorly fit caps allowing fire from an adjacent nipple to travel over to the next unfired nipple.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
The factory nipples have 2 flats on all reproduction revolvers. You will need a nipple wrench that is designed for them. The store where you bought the revolver will have one. The Ruger Old Army that is not a copy of anything is the only revolver that uses a 3/16 socket to remove the factory nipples.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Actually, I use a half square of TP. Fold a piece of TP in half and cut it into 2 pieces; they will be rectangular, but when you fold each piece, it will form a square.
Place a 1/2 square of double ply toiletpaper on the table. Put a dab of bullet lube in the middle of the TP - about the size of a kernel of unpopped popcorn. Pick up all 4 corners of the TP so that the 4 corners touch, then twist. You'll end up with a teardrop shaped wad. Place the pointed end of the teardrop down into the cylinder, over the powder , then push it in flush to the cylinder face. Place a ball over it & seat. The Pointed end of the teardrop is all paper & the lube is at the "fat end". This is important, because when you seat the ball, the paper compresses against the powder & prevents the bullet lube from getting into the powder.
The problem with bullet lubes and even lubed wads is that when fired, the excess lube gets all over the frame & cylinder face, where it attracts a lot of powder residue. It's the residue that impedes the cylinder turning & the gun cycling, not lack of lube.

If you get a ring of lead after you seat your bullet, the chamber is completely sealed, just like a cork in a bottle - there's no way fire will get past to cause a chainfire. Chainfires result from poorly fit caps allowing fire from an adjacent nipple to travel over to the next unfired nipple.
Thank you for the detailed explanation,I appreciate it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,496 Posts
Thanks for the tips
Let me make sure I understand what you are saying

You do not use a wad behind your ball ,you only use a small dab of lube of lube folded up inside some toilet paper over your powder and behind your ball?

With less space being used in the cylinder hole and using a 23 grain load ,is there any issue using the short loading lever of the Sheriffs model there is no issue
Getting the ball seated fully?

Do you have any issues with chainfires without a tighter fitting wad ?

Without having a lot of lube coming out of the cylinder does the cylinder still stay lubed enough to rotate easily after 30 or forty shots?

I would appreciate it if you would post a Pic of the toilet paper you use and the size of lube that you fold up inside of it if you don't mind.

Thank you much
A .454 call should shave lead giving you a sealed chamber. At most I use a very mildly lubed wad. Usually nada and good balls that shave lead. Once in a whip a small smear of Crisco over the chambers for lube softning. Don't over do it. Excess lube makes more of a mess.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
The factory nipples have 2 flats on all reproduction revolvers. You will need a nipple wrench that is designed for them. The store where you bought the revolver will have one. The Ruger Old Army that is not a copy of anything is the only revolver that uses a 3/16 socket to remove the factory nipples.
Thanks for the info on the Ruger Old Army.

What I am talking about is Modifying a socket to prevent breaking a standard nipple wrench and to provide better leverage such as this video describes.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l0jHYmal9VU The Percussion revolver nipple wrench mod



Thanks for the Info
 

·
Platinum Bullet member
Joined
·
20,509 Posts
Get junk wrenches, like that hillbilly expert in that video says, & you accumulate junk wrenches. Buy a quality wrench and you won't have any problems. Look at the rust around the nipple recess. It's a wonder he has problems. Clean your cylinder the same day as you fire it, removing the nipples & you won't have subsequent stuck nipple problems. A little tallow & beeswax lube on the nipple threads will prevent them from seizing up. You won't be using a torque wrench to reinstall them, so later removal with your quality wrench won't be a problem. If you're the worry-wart type, go buy some automotive anti-seize compound - it works every bit as well as ball lube, Frog Lube, Militec Grease, or whatever you have on hand.
 

·
Platinum Bullet member
Joined
·
20,509 Posts
The Ruger Old Army has been mentioned. While they are hands down a premium cap & ball revolver, keep in mind that when you use oversized balls & break the loading lever, Ruger does not carry any spare parts that are not common to the Blackhawk.

I have a Stainless Old Army that I got for a junk price from a guy who wanted top dollar for it being "unfired" I pointed out some wear, and also speckles of powder residue under the grips. I reminded him that Ruger didn't make parts anymore, and he dropped the price just to be rid of it.
While it will easily handle all the powder I can cram into it, I seat balls with a benchtop cylinder loader only. Mine also wears a set of Treso / Ampco nipples that will easily last my lifetime.
ROA vs Dragoon to post1.jpg
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Get junk wrenches, like that hillbilly expert in that video says, & you accumulate junk wrenches. Buy a quality wrench and you won't have any problems. Look at the rust around the nipple recess. It's a wonder he has problems. Clean your cylinder the same day as you fire it, removing the nipples & you won't have subsequent stuck nipple problems. A little tallow & beeswax lube on the nipple threads will prevent them from seizing up. You won't be using a torque wrench to reinstall them, so later removal with your quality wrench won't be a problem. If you're the worry-wart type, go buy some automotive anti-seize compound - it works every bit as well as ball lube, Frog Lube, Militec Grease, or whatever you have on hand.
I was Just piddling around today and bored so I got out my little Craftsman socket and ratchet wrench kit.
Looked at several different sockets and found that the 4mm would not fit down over the nipple ,the 5 would fit as well as the 4.5mm.

I decided on the 4.5mm,got my Dremel with the cutoff wheel then eyeballing it cut a little notch about center of the socket,then gradually put sideways pressure on it and widened and deepened it ,then got a file and went to work on it continually attempting to fit it to the nipple which was still in the cylinder.
Once it started to grab the shoulder I deepened it a little more and took the nipple out of the cylinder,then while I watched tv I used the mill file and a little triangle file to fit the wrench to the nipple..

Took about 45 minutes all total,taking my time,watching tv,going to the bathroom.
To the best of my memory I have never used the 4.5mm socket and If I do ever need another one they are less than $3.00 tax and all from a store like Loewes.

Probably use the same type of lube I am going to use for the ball lube,Beeswax and Crisco.

I will get a pic up in a little bit.
 

·
Gold Bullet Member and Noted Curmudgeon
Joined
·
95,834 Posts
Ought to work OK. I would use one of the copper-bearing anti-seize compounds for the nipple threads. Only a tiny dab required. Maybe recommended because that is what i use with good results.
 
1 - 20 of 30 Posts
Top